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mountie

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I'll be watching: 1) gas mileage; 2) gauge water temp; 3) UOA results.
Remember, I'm still a flip ph owner/operator. I know the day is coming when I'll need to buy a Tech2, and I'm not looking forward to that learning curve.
I hope when I install the Hayden cooler it doesn't leach any lead and skew my nexy UOA. I'll rinse it and the tank with solvent before their installation.

I used a Setrab cooler on my old truck..... Not cheap but very nice....good volume through the cooler.
 

Danny3737

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6C22BB37-A5A5-47C4-98C7-6EA7CE1BFC1E.jpeg

This was in Radford, VA a week ago. There are a few places in VA where it’s as low as $1.45


The price of gasoline is the lowest in years. Due to massive over-supply, it will remain low for at least another year.

No reason to convert to 87 octane at this time, IMO.
 
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Prices around here have been $1.65ish for 87 and $2.06 for 93

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
 

08grey

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Still 299 here for 93

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk
 
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donjetman

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Doesn't this thing sit a lot? How about adding an inline electric oil pump for priming?
Chris, you got me thinking. Instead of an inline electric pump, what some folks use in the drag racing world is an engine oil accumulator. Its not used so much for starting, it mainly used in the shut down area. When a fast car hits the brakes after their run, all the remaining oil in the sump sloshes forward, away from the oil pump pickup, and oil pressure goes to nothing with the engine still running. With an accumulator, it gets charged with oil from normal oil pressure. Then, with a 12v low oil pressure switch, this oil can be released to provide oil pressure for a few seconds, until the braking event is over and normal oil pressure is sensed.

An accumulator can be used for starting too. Oil is accumulated when the engine is running. When the key is turned to "OFF", a 12v valve is de-energizes(normally closed) and closes, trapping oil in the accumulator. Next time the key is turned to the "on" position, the 12v valve opens, allowing the accumulators oil to temporary pressurize the engine oil system. Then the key is turned to the "start" position and the engine starts, and the accumulator is re-charged.

I have a buddy that has one for sell he took off a drag car. I've been thinking about putting it on my TranAm(see avatar) for oil pressure while braking.

Here's a summit racing link for accumualors:https://www.summitracing.com/search...cumulators?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

Perhaps Hayden is a more reputable, read less Chicom, company and you won't have an issue with lead solder like I did.
Ken, its made in S. Korea. We'll see if its any better.
 
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donjetman

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More thinking. :sorry:
It's not wise to make more than one change(adding oil tank & cooler) at a time. If something is amiss (next UOA) which change caused it?
So, I'm gonna get everything mounted and plumbed in the following order. Out of the engine via the ICT oil cooler adapter, to the engine oil bypass remote filter, then to the 1 gal oil tank, then to the oil cooler, then back into the engine via the ICT oil cooler adapter. I'll drive it for 4k miles( 2 trips to CO and back) with only the cooler hooked up. Then I'll do a UOA and see if there's any lead leaching out of the cooler joints. Then I'll include the 1 gal oil tank to the circut and drive it for another 8k miles, then do another UOA. With a total sump capacity of about 11 qts, 12k miles oil change interval(OCI) should be no problem, and my DIC should be near "0% remaining" by then. Remember, my DIC indicated "25% remaining" at 8600 miles and my last oil change.

Sound like a plan man?
 

iamdub

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Chris, you got me thinking. Instead of an inline electric pump, what some folks use in the drag racing world is an engine oil accumulator. Its not used so much for starting, it mainly used in the shut down area. When a fast car hits the brakes after their run, all the remaining oil in the sump sloshes forward, away from the oil pump pickup, and oil pressure goes to nothing with the engine still running. With an accumulator, it gets charged with oil from normal oil pressure. Then, with a 12v low oil pressure switch, this oil can be released to provide oil pressure for a few seconds, until the braking event is over and normal oil pressure is sensed.

An accumulator can be used for starting too. Oil is accumulated when the engine is running. When the key is turned to "OFF", a 12v valve is de-energizes(normally closed) and closes, trapping oil in the accumulator. Next time the key is turned to the "on" position, the 12v valve opens, allowing the accumulators oil to temporary pressurize the engine oil system. Then the key is turned to the "start" position and the engine starts, and the accumulator is re-charged.

I have a buddy that has one for sell he took off a drag car. I've been thinking about putting it on my TranAm(see avatar) for oil pressure while braking.

Here's a summit racing link for accumualors:https://www.summitracing.com/search...cumulators?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending


Ken, its made in S. Korea. We'll see if its any better.

I'm familiar with these and have considered one for mine since it sits so much and that first startup is the hardest on the engine. As particular as I am, I'd be one to use an electric pump to (possibly) build more pressure but mainly to get the oil fully circulated. Having a pressurized reservoir of oil will only push so much before it's pressure is depleted, in less than a second.
 
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donjetman

donjetman

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I'm familiar with these and have considered one for mine since it sits so much and that first startup is the hardest on the engine. As particular as I am, I'd be one to use an electric pump to (possibly) build more pressure but mainly to get the oil fully circulated. Having a pressurized reservoir of oil will only push so much before it's pressure is depleted, in less than a second.
Used oil analysis results don't indicate that startups after inactivity is a problem. This discussion has gone on forever on forums such as this. Visit the Bobistheoilguy forum.
Accumulators can provide long large volumes of oil if such a unit is purchased and installed properly.
I have a motorhome with a huge 12.7L Detroit Diesel. It sits for months between starts(like most MHs). UOA has never shown any problem.
 

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