Plain N Simple - Esky Log

I am about to tackle my Tahoe and add some deadening to the door panels and the rear wheel wells since all I have is bare metal back there. Now that I see yours, I know where else I have to add some. GM kinda got cheap on deadening after the first row of seats, lol

I'd venture to think they did actual testing to determine where insulation should be applied. There's a science to it, but total blanketing of a panel may not be as effective as just isolated tiles. The outside noise you hear on the inside is from the panels resonating. Stick some tiles in some strategic areas and you break up the resonant frequency(ies) of the panel. Total blanketing of a panel would effectively just make a thicker panel that would just resonate at frequencies higher or lower than previously. You'd perceive a change, and it may be satisfactory results to you, but it may not be as efficient as it could be and you could be wasting a lot of insulation. Insulation adds weight and costs money. If GM were to just haphazardly slap a bunch of it in every Escalade, Denali, etc. ever produced, it'd add up to huge unnecessary manufacturing costs and extra weight. I believe the factory sound insulating can be improved as the engineers have to strike a balance between cost and effect. As an average Joe Car Owner and non-acoustical engineer with no measuring equipment, the most we can do is apply additional insulation with an educated mindset.

My idea for when I do mine is to blanket the more offending panels such as the doors, floors and ceiling with some thinner stuff to first lower the resonant frequency and increase the thermal insulation aspect. Then, I'll apply thicker/heavier tiles in the wider, lesser-supported areas to break up and dampen any remaining resonance.

mikeyss said:

I am about to tackle my Tahoe and add some deadening to the door panels and the rear wheel wells since all I have is bare metal back there. Now that I see yours, I know where else I have to add some. GM kinda got cheap on deadening after the first row of seats, lol

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I would cover 90% of the interior if all of it would be out of the car already. I’d love to get the roof knocked out. I would seriously look into closed cell foam if you are considering doing any deadening. From what I’ve experienced and read it seems to be the real factor in cutting down on noise. This is a multi layer process unfortunately.

iamdub said:

I'd venture to think they did actual testing to determine where insulation should be applied. There's a science to it, but total blanketing of a panel may not be as effective as just isolated tiles. The outside noise you hear on the inside is from the panels resonating. Stick some tiles in some strategic areas and you break up the resonant frequency(ies) of the panel. Total blanketing of a panel would effectively just make a thicker panel that would just resonate at frequencies higher or lower than previously. You'd perceive a change, and it may be satisfactory results to you, but it may not be as efficient as it could be and you could be wasting a lot of insulation. Insulation adds weight and costs money. If GM were to just haphazardly slap a bunch of it in every Escalade, Denali, etc. ever produced, it'd add up to huge unnecessary manufacturing costs and extra weight. I believe the factory sound insulating can be improved as the engineers have to strike a balance between cost and effect. As an average Joe Car Owner and non-acoustical engineer with no measuring equipment, the most we can do is apply additional insulation with an educated mindset.

My idea for when I do mine is to blanket the more offending panels such as the doors, floors and ceiling with some thinner stuff to first lower the resonant frequency and increase the thermal insulation aspect. Then, I'll apply thicker/heavier tiles in the wider, lesser-supported areas to break up and dampen any remaining resonance.

Click to expand...

I’ve done a good amount of reading on it the past few years. From what I recall it’s recommended to do a certain % of the bare metal with butyl based foil. Once you do any more than that the return is negligible. I’ve got three large boxes laying around. I’m trying to get rid of the stuff more than anything.

I put 2-3 layers in the door skins of my F250 and then a layer on the door panel itself. I couldn’t tell any difference in noise with MT’s and deleted exhaust. Doing the floors and cargo door with the deep exhaust seems to make a very slight change. From what I’ve read the closed cell foam is the key item to reducing the sound levels. The more the better. Once I get the stuff I’ve ordered I’ll make sure to do a comparison. If things go well there I might look into the options for the doors. I’ve still got a ton of butyl mat.

On the stock setup right now they use a gell and just let it dry in certain areas as a vibration reducer, I would say this is maybe in 5-10% of the floor? Followed by a 3/4” thick pad of carpet materials as deadener in certain areas, and then covered by the final carpet. The cargo area also has the carpet deadener. None of this is expensive or game changing in regards to sound reduction. It may be better than a base model but that’s it.



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@iambub...
I 100% agree with you, except that, ONLY the Denali and the Escalade had that treatment of specially placed sound deadening. The Tahoe, and non Denali Yukon's are missing parts of that package. Even the front side glass is different on Denali and Escalade. I work for a packaging protecting plant and I have access to closed cell foam, that's what I'm gonna line the rear wheel well with, and add it to the cotton backing the door panels have. I plan on doing the roof, eventually

Tide said:

I would cover 90% of the interior if all of it would be out of the car already. I’d love to get the roof knocked out. I would seriously look into closed cell foam if you are considering doing any deadening. From what I’ve experienced and read it seems to be the real factor in cutting down on noise. This is a multi layer process unfortunately.



I’ve done a good amount of reading on it the past few years. From what I recall it’s recommended to do a certain % of the bare metal with butyl based foil. Once you do any more than that the return is negligible. I’ve got three large boxes laying around. I’m trying to get rid of the stuff more than anything.

I put 2-3 layers in the door skins of my F250 and then a layer on the door panel itself. I couldn’t tell any difference in noise with MT’s and deleted exhaust. Doing the floors and cargo door with the deep exhaust seems to make a very slight change. From what I’ve read the closed cell foam is the key item to reducing the sound levels. The more the better. Once I get the stuff I’ve ordered I’ll make sure to do a comparison. If things go well there I might look into the options for the doors. I’ve still got a ton of butyl mat.

On the stock setup right now they use a gell and just let it dry in certain areas as a vibration reducer, I would say this is maybe in 5-10% of the floor? Followed by a 3/4” thick pad of carpet materials as deadener in certain areas, and then covered by the final carpet. The cargo area also has the carpet deadener. None of this is expensive or game changing in regards to sound reduction. It may be better than a base model but that’s it.



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Click to expand...

The foam makes more sense than blanketing with layer(s) of dense material. It would absorb and muffle rather than just alter the resonant frequency.

iamdub said:

The foam makes more sense than blanketing with layer(s) of dense material. It would absorb and muffle rather than just alter the resonant frequency.

Click to expand...

And light weight!

iamdub said:

The foam makes more sense than blanketing with layer(s) of dense material. It would absorb and muffle rather than just alter the resonant frequency.

Click to expand...

Did a little refresher on it last night. The closed cell foam won’t make a substantial difference in noise control. Another layer of mass loaded viynl is needed to do that on top of the foam. The viynl is much more costly(3-4 times what the other materials cost). After a few drinks this evening I’ll Probly pull the trigger.


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The satin black wrap showed up earlier than expected. Went ahead and got started earlier. Knocked out the first panel, removed the second, and quickly realized the film was a little small. Go figure.



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Side note. Any model that has the silver vinyl like mine with ridges, they will still be noticeable with a wrap. I don’t mind them so no problem for me.


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40 square feet of mass loaded vinyl heading my way. I’ve got a larger muffler laying around that I haven’t tried out. Going to give that a go soon as well. I might add it in conjunction with the round body dynomax and factory resonator. I’ll see how just the swap goes then adjust if needed.


The vinyl on the interior dash is growing on me. Turns out I ordered a larger roll as well but they are shipping it separately. That was over 2 weeks ago when I first ordered. There are a couple section I didn’t realize were wrapped in the factory brushed aluminum, and likely the hardest ones for me to do. My skills will have to improve pretty quickly.



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Still waiting on the MLV and larger vinyl pieces for the interior.

I finished up the door panel trim today on the back doors. The front is slightly larger and the 2” strip of vinyl I have is just too close for me. A pro could probly do it but I am far from that, I need more material I can waste.

Vinyl


Chrome and plastidip.


Vinyl vs plastidip and glossifer top coat.


From here it’s a waiting game on things to come in. I need to redo the interior piece I did. Also need to order more gloss 3m in larger pieces. I might attempt and do other areas as well. Roof rack, mirrors, running boards. Etc. If I can get these other items pieces done on the interior and I should be able to get exterior items done. Still trying to figure out what I’m doing with the vinyl.

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