Mods Because Of Social Distancing

baddbradd · Apr 2, 2020

donjetman said:
Social distancing has given me way too much time. I'm ordering parts for mods I've only been dreaming about doing to our Yukon. I like to experiment, so

I've ordered and I'm adding:
a) a remote mounted 1 gal oil tank to increase sump capacity, Viair# 91014
b) a oil cooler, Hayden# 696
c) a 180* thermostat

and if the social distancing continues long enough, I'm gonna:
d) remove the heads so as to extract all the broken exh manifold bolts.
e) install headers
f) hallow out, or replace w/fake, the cats
g) get the engine tuned for 87 octane and two O2 sensors.
h) get the trans tuned

I have 2 drag race cars, that's why I drive the Yukon like a lil ol lady. I get my kicks at the track. Remember, we mainly use this vehicle to drive at the speed limit to and from a second home 1000 miles away.

Any part# suggestions/link?
Anything else while it's down and/or apart?

Thanks

baddbradd · Apr 2, 2020

I installed Speed Engineering Headers this past weekend. Easiest headers I've ever installed. 2012 Tahoe. Doing the Blackbear autocal now.......who know what'll do this weekend

avalonandl · Apr 2, 2020

I don't know what the 180 tstat will do for you. OE is 195 I think.....

Mark Shipley · Apr 2, 2020

donjetman said:
Social distancing has given me way too much time. I'm ordering parts for mods I've only been dreaming about doing to our Yukon. I like to experiment, so

I've ordered and I'm adding:
a) a remote mounted 1 gal oil tank to increase sump capacity, Viair# 91014
b) a oil cooler, Hayden# 696
c) a 180* thermostat

and if the social distancing continues long enough, I'm gonna:
d) remove the heads so as to extract all the broken exh manifold bolts.
e) install headers
f) hallow out, or replace w/fake, the cats
g) get the engine tuned for 87 octane and two O2 sensors.
h) get the trans tuned

I have 2 drag race cars, that's why I drive the Yukon like a lil ol lady. I get my kicks at the track. Remember, we mainly use this vehicle to drive at the speed limit to and from a second home 1000 miles away.

Any part# suggestions/link?
Anything else while it's down and/or apart?

Thanks

It seems like a lot of work to pull those heads just to put those replacement manifold bolts in. You feel like you're under the dealer keeps saying they want to pull the engine out in order to do that which is ridiculous but usually what happens is and I've seen this where they pull the skirts the inner skirts and then drill out the manifold Bolts from there. Seems like that would be easier than pulling the heads

TT53SilveradoDave · Apr 3, 2020

I've found the best place to be socially distant is the junkyard. Ive picked up a Garrett T4 from a 7.3 powerstroke to which I already had the intercooler,V-bands,countless pieces of exhaust tubing w o2 bungs and flanges to mount to some shorty headers to finally get the turbo 5.3 plan on the ball and even scooped up an 02 Yukon and a 99 s-10 for $200 each. The Yukon missing the trans and t-case and the engine in th s10 dead...well it only seemed natural to drop the LM7 I to th lil pickup,beat on it awhile and sell it for $4 or $5k.

donjetman · Apr 3, 2020

Mark Shipley said:
It seems like a lot of work to pull those heads just to put those replacement manifold bolts in. You feel like you're under the dealer keeps saying they want to pull the engine out in order to do that which is ridiculous but usually what happens is and I've seen this where they pull the skirts the inner skirts and then drill out the manifold Bolts from there. Seems like that would be easier than pulling the heads

I'll try that Mike.
But being I'm a retired pilot, I plan for the worst and hope for the best.
Thanks

Rocket Man · Apr 3, 2020

There’s lots of tricks for removing the broken studs. Pull the exhaust manifolds and some will have enough to put vise grips on or sometimes you can put a nut over the stub, weld inside the nut so it attaches to the stud and then turn the nut, or use easy-out, etc. It depends on which ones are broken too in the case of drilling. The AC compressor is in the way on the passenger fronts so you might have to pull it, the driver rear has steering in the way, etc. The bolts aren’t usually hard to turn at all, they just break from getting brittle from the heat because they’re poor quality. I suggest replacing them with ARP.

donjetman · Apr 3, 2020

Thanks for the heads up.
I'm a big fan of ARP too, and have been using their stuff as long as I can remember on my racing engines.

Javie · Apr 3, 2020

donjetman said:
That's a good idea too, thanks

i currently have no cats on my tahoe and wanted a Y-pipe added problem is i'm in California which means i will be having to slap them back on come this october for smog testing. Question to any and all is will adding a Y-pipe make it more complicated when having to switch back to stock?

Rocket Man · Apr 3, 2020

Javie said:
i currently have no cats on my tahoe and wanted a Y-pipe added problem is i'm in California which means i will be having to slap them back on come this october for smog testing. Question to any and all is will adding a Y-pipe make it more complicated when having to switch back to stock?

Do they have a visual inspection in Cali? They don’t in Oregon and I have the downstream O2 sensors deleted in the tune so it passes the emissions test. And if they do, there’s ways around that too like fake cats.

Mods Because Of Social Distancing

baddbradd

TYF Newbie

baddbradd

TYF Newbie

avalonandl

Full Access Member

Mark Shipley

Member

TT53SilveradoDave

TYF Newbie

donjetman

Full Access Member

Rocket Man

Mark

donjetman

Full Access Member

Javie

Full Access Member

Rocket Man

Mark

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