What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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89Suburban

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Can you get to the bottom side of that panel? Maybe you could grind off or use pliers to collapse the bottom flange of the insert and pull it out without messing with the painted side.

The blind nut material is very thick. I don’t think it will be that easy. Either way you try it you are taking a chance damaging the finish of the panel or the panel itself.
 

89Suburban

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Washed it then removed the roof rack then washed the roof again.

I didn't know the threaded inserts stuck up as high as they do. The caps I painted aren't gonna be nearly as low-profile and clean as I was expecting. By my tolerances, this is HUGE:

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I cut the stem off a plain, non-painted cap to test. I planned to apply a thin layer of urethane to seal them and fill what I thought would be a really thin gap between the cap and roof. This gap is about the thickness of a nickel, so the sealant would really show:

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And these are definitely NOT blind holes!:

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Anyone have any suggestions for removing the footprints? I only have polishing compound and it's not abrasive enough. Should I get rubbing compound or is there something better suited?

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I'm REALLY tempted to just put the rack back on until I can regroup with a better game plan. For now, I put the screws back in with some black Permatex under the head and ran them all the way in.

Did you find a lot of filthy assed grime under the mounts? Can you post pics of the front mount areas?
 

R3cord303

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True duals and h pipe will get you there
I've never really liked dual exhaust. Gotta add a bunch of hangers, and then the exit pipes aren't ever symmetrical, or one starts to sag after a while, just never seen one on a truck that really looked good or held up well. On cars, sure, but not on a truck. If I find my laptop today I'll update the tune but I'm starting to think I might have to get another one.
 

Sam Harris

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View attachment 236635

Went through the car wash and got his shit going on now. :mad::mad:
Do not like. Dammit!
I had that issue right after I bought my Yukon. I just needed to reattach the driver’s door seal as it was hanging down a bit. It wasn’t enough to catch my attention, but after that leak, I found it pretty quickly! Used this stuff to reattach. Worked great!


3M 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063X38M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 

iamdub

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I used Meguiars Fine Cut Cleaner on a buffer to get rid of mine.

Thank you. I'll check into this.

I don’t know about the NNBS, only the NBS but Im sure if anyone pulled a rack off a NNBS and didn’t plug the holes, hard data would have filled their truck with water. I know mine are blind.

Ya know- the body style may be the difference here.
 

iamdub

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Can you get to the bottom side of that panel? Maybe you could grind off or use pliers to collapse the bottom flange of the insert and pull it out without messing with the painted side.

I might could if I removed the headliner. But, they gotta be inside of a roof support, which may be boxed, so even then that may not happen.

My concern is that if they were gone, would the roof be unsupported at those points and be loose? Like, did they engineer these inserts to be specific heights at those points to provide a supported point for the rack as well as hold the roof metal at that plane?

I could easily drill it with a bit that's bigger than the threaded part but smaller than the OD of the head, like drilling out a regular rivet. I'd drill it a slowly, progressing a hair at a time until the head is about to become a "ring" and separate from the shank, then just pull the ring part off. This would leave me with a threaded boss that comes up flush with the roof skin, which would be ideal for my caps. But if the roof skin could then move up and down because that wider head is gone, then I've opened up a can of worms.

I'll have to find a wrecked one to experiment on.
 
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