What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

rgosart · Dec 12, 2019

TheAutumnWind said:
I totally agree. The angle of the arms and the amount of uptravel and down travel when you cycle the suspension plays a part as well.

When you take the suspension out of the sweet spot you actually lose overall travel. Less suspension travel is bad for ride quality. This happens because there is a hard limit on how high or low of an angle the arms/balljoints/ axles can achieve.

Caster also changes which affects ride quality. Another advantage of adjustable UCAs.

Before somebody corrects me. Wrong word. Caster does not affect ride quality directly, more related to steering.

TheAutumnWind · Dec 12, 2019

rgosart said:
I guess the change in stiffness comes from the load range E tires with stiffer sidewall. I bought small bumpers to add to compensate for the extra distance between the control arm and the jounce stop. I guess it is time to put them on.

Tires can make a huge difference. Yeah get those bumpers in there!

So many people complain of poor ride on these vehicles and change out everything completely ignoring their trashed jounce stops... which are like $20 and take zero time to replace.

TheAutumnWind · Dec 12, 2019

rgosart said:
Caster also changes which affects ride quality. Another advantage of adjustable UCAs.

Before somebody corrects me. Wrong word. Caster does not affect ride quality directly, more related to steering.

You could argue that a vehicles on center feel (self centering) is a ride "quality" characteristic. Mine is a little vague. I would love more caster on this truck personally. It handles great for how big and heavy it is, it is very responsive, it simply is not confidence inspiring when driving straight. It's too twitchy, requires some effort to keep in the center of the lane on the highway. Could be a few different things such as a steering position sensor. This likely is not something that passengers are aware of, but maybe they are aware of the constant small inputs that seem to be required to keep this thing in the middle of the road.

Fosscore · Dec 12, 2019

Sam Harris said:
Current situation:i bought the replacement pump, since that seems to be the weak link. But as soon as I opened it up, I see the lines are trash. Now I don’t know what goes where. Lol. Any tips appreciated. I guess I’ve got a 50/50 shot.
Ok. Got the right lines attached. Yay. On a pissed the **** off note, the pump I ordered from a GM dealer was the wrong damn one. So didn’t end up replacing it after all. Sonsofbitches! i also managed to break the plastic clip that holds the washer fluid level sensor on, so for now a hack job o-ring was the best I could do. It’s pretty tight in there anyway, but don’t feel like going to get a replacement, and wiring in a new one today. It should hold for a while at least. replaced the rubber connecting tubes as well and clamped them just because. annd.. since watching @Fosscore, I had to touch up the terrible looking battery tray with some fresh black gloss. Lol. It still looks like crap, but significantly better than it was. [emoji23]

Thatta boy...the little details....

HiHoeSilver · Dec 13, 2019

Fosscore said:
Needs cleaner letters....errr engine bay...sheesh!

Lol. The camera definitely highlights it.... but they're actually pretty clean (I'd say 85th percentile, easy) in person. I am forming my spring plan of attack already. I got the tires and key crank accomplished before winter, but it's bearing down on us, now.

HiHoeSilver · Dec 13, 2019

Sam Harris said:
Thanks guys. I’m not sure if I’m going to use the keys or not. Got some experimenting to do..

That's what I did, too. Kind of like @rgosart described. He's the one who tipped the scale for my tire purchase, too. I went 275/70r18 (33.2 x 10.8). I have z71, so I didn't mess with rear springs or spacers. I was surprised that the fronts fit with no rubbing at stock height (closely). I wanted to get more level, so I started with 1.5 turns, which conventional wisdom says is 3/8". The next day, I put another 1.5 on, so now 3/4". About a week later, I put another full turn for another 1/4".

My numbers show that 1 turn = 1/4" is pretty accurate. I am now sitting at 38.5 rear, 37.5 front. I like the little rake, and while there is a little bit of bolt left, I'm happy for now and will align it now for the winter. Maybe minimum (1- 1.25) spacers in the spring for stance, and since more little key turns to go with.

Ride- wise, I honestly can't tell the difference. Drives great. I have nailed a couple speed bumps and Chicago potholes for research purposes and it's like nothing changed. I'm a little surprised, because I am off the jounce stops by just a hair now. If I get in there with shocks next year, I will add a pancake to the control arm to get them back touching.

Sam Harris · Dec 13, 2019

HiHoeSilver said:
That's what I did, too. Kind of like @rgosart described. He's the one who tipped the scale for my tire purchase, too. I went 275/70r18 (33.2 x 10.8). I have z71, so I didn't mess with rear springs or spacers. I was surprised that the fronts fit with no rubbing at stock height (closely). I wanted to get more level, so I started with 1.5 turns, which conventional wisdom says is 3/8". The next day, I put another 1.5 on, so now 3/4". About a week later, I put another full turn for another 1/4".

My numbers show that 1 turn = 1/4" is pretty accurate. I am now sitting at 38.5 rear, 37.5 front. I like the little rake, and while there is a little bit of bolt left, I'm happy for now and will align it now for the winter. Maybe minimum (1- 1.25) spacers in the spring for stance, and since more little key turns to go with.

Ride- wise, I honestly can't tell the difference. Drives great. I have nailed a couple speed bumps and Chicago potholes for research purposes and it's like nothing changed. I'm a little surprised, because I am off the jounce stops by just a hair now. If I get in there with shocks next year, I will add a pancake to the control arm to get them back touching.

Thanks for the details. I’m hoping it doesn’t ride like shit. Hell, after reading about how terrible the ride is after cranking the keys, I’m considering dropping the rear to level, rather that bumping the front up.. [emoji2957]

wjburken · Dec 13, 2019

Sam Harris said:
Thanks for the details. I’m hoping it doesn’t ride like shit. Hell, after reading about how terrible the ride is after cranking the keys, I’m considering dropping the rear to level, rather that bumping the front up.. [emoji2957]

Sam, from what I can tell in reading the various posts here, a lot of guys are running with cranked keys and are happy with the ride they have. I don’t have any experience myself, but if I had a truck with torsion bars again, I would not be afraid of doing it myself.

TheAutumnWind · Dec 13, 2019

Sam Harris said:
Thanks for the details. I’m hoping it doesn’t ride like shit. Hell, after reading about how terrible the ride is after cranking the keys, I’m considering dropping the rear to level, rather that bumping the front up.. [emoji2957]

You can go up a bit without a noticeable reduction in ride quality. Just dont expect to tuck 35s with keys and no trimming.

Sam Harris · Dec 13, 2019

TheAutumnWind said:
You can go up a bit without a noticeable reduction in ride quality. Just dont expect to tuck 35s with keys and no trimming.

Yeah definitely not trying to do that. Lol. I’m hoping to bump up just a little to a 275 /70 18, but mostly just wanted it level.

What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

rgosart

Full Access Member

TheAutumnWind

Full Access Member

TheAutumnWind

Full Access Member

Fosscore

Full Access Member

HiHoeSilver

Away!

HiHoeSilver

Away!

Sam Harris

wjburken

TheAutumnWind

Full Access Member

Sam Harris

Similar threads

Forum statistics

Latest posts