Driver door only wont lock/unlock with fob.

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Jolly Roger

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First off its cold, 10 degrees outside. I went out to unlock my door to start my truck and at first I thought that my drivers door was just frozen shut. I could hear the actuators work when I pressed un/lock on the fob.
Turns out that the drivers side door lock knob isn't moving at all like the other doors. Almost like something came loose. The key works the lock manually, so at least I can lock/unlock it from the outside.

Anyone know of a common problem that Im not aware of?

Bad actuator in the door?
Bad wire?

Maybe next time I go out Ill try to put my ear to drivers side door and see if I can hear the actuator....without freezing my ear to the door...Ill bring coffee out with me...;)
 
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wjburken

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First off its cold, 10 degrees outside. I went out to unlock my door to start my truck and at first I thought that my drivers door was just frozen shut. I could hear the actuators work when I pressed un/lock on the fob.
Turns out that the drivers side door lock knob isn't moving at all like the other doors. Almost like something came loose. The key works the lock manually, so at least I can lock/unlock it from the outside.

Anyone know of a common problem that Im not aware of?

Bad actuator in the door?
Bad wire?

Maybe next time I go out Ill try to put my ear to drivers side door and see if I can hear the actuator....without freezing my ear to the door...Ill bring coffee out with me...;)

I would put money on a failed or failing actuator. If your key is able to unlock the door or you can unlock with the pull knob on the door sill, your rods inside the door should still be intact. That leaves a bad actuator or a broken or loose wire and the actuator seems more likely to me. I have had these fail on me a couple of times.
 

jeffbco

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First off its cold, 10 degrees outside. I went out to unlock my door to start my truck and at first I thought that my drivers door was just frozen shut. I could hear the actuators work when I pressed un/lock on the fob.
Turns out that the drivers side door lock knob isn't moving at all like the other doors. Almost like something came loose. The key works the lock manually, so at least I can lock/unlock it from the outside.

Anyone know of a common problem that Im not aware of?

Bad actuator in the door?
Bad wire?

Maybe next time I go out Ill try to put my ear to drivers side door and see if I can hear the actuator....without freezing my ear to the door...Ill bring coffee out with me...;)
Does the same issue exist if you use your second key fob?
 

wjburken

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Does the same issue exist if you use your second key fob?
He has special FOB's. I think his other FOB deploys some secret missile launcher.
227128-a05866ee564e9f29da4892b6f839f7b6.jpg
 

BourbonNcigars

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I'd take the door panel off and check it out myself first. Could be something simple. Very easy to do (I used a cheap trim pulling set), though you can break some easily replaced plastic clips if you go too fast. I have a link somewhere that I'll try to find later.
 

wjburken

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I'd take the door panel off and check it out myself first. Could be something simple. Very easy to do (I used a cheap trim pulling set), though you can break some easily replaced plastic clips if you go too fast. I have a link somewhere that I'll try to find later.
Whether it is the actuator or the wiring, the panel needs to come off so I am with @BourbonNcigars and suggest getting it off sooner rather than later and get a better idea of what is going on. That way you can hold the actuator in your hand and see what happens when you hit the button.
 
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Jolly Roger

Jolly Roger

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He has special FOB's. I think his other FOB deploys some secret missile launcher.
227128-a05866ee564e9f29da4892b6f839f7b6.jpg


Funny you mentioned that. I've been meaning to get on here and tell people about my experience with Boost auto parts key fobs. https://boostautoparts.com/products/fob?variant=13368373706807

Complete and total headache! I've had nothing but problems with these Boost Auto Parts 2015 retrofit key fobs. Keep in mind that what you see in the picture is a AJT Designs key fob case, the boost auto parts key fob board is inside.
I actually bought two Boost key fobs to use with my AJT Design cases. Thats close to $200 in key fobs that su#k!

I literally have to be right at my door half the time to get them to work. They have horrible range even with brand new lithium batteries. When they do work, there slooooooooow. There is no fast pressing of buttons, its almost like the fobs have a major delay from one signal to the next or the trucks computer cant decipher what its being told....
Ive programmed them over and over again to no avail. The regular fobs work great.

So picture me and the wife walking to the truck, I press "unlock", my door unlocks. I press "unlock" again and nothing...I press "unlock" nothing, I press "lock" to see if Im pressing the wrong dang button and it immediately locks my door. I press "unlock" my door unlocks, I press "unlock" it unlocks my door again without unlocking the other doors. (keep in mind its freaking cold outside, and we have groceries in hand, wife's just standing at her door waiting for me to finally unlock her door) Eventually after about ten tries the doors unlock.....This is my life.
My wife has given up on my fob shooting blanks and now just uses her own fob to open herself.....meanwhile Im left feeling demasculated because my big fob wont get her door unlocked.....

..its not a matter of the button not being pressed inside the case, I can feel the full depression of the button being pressed on the internal board, so its not a mater of the AJT case not fitting inline with the Boost board.

Anyone else have problems with Boost Auto Parts retrofit key fobs?
 
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Jolly Roger

Jolly Roger

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As to the actual problem at hand, I will pull it into the shop and take it all apart to see what in the heck is going on. I think Ill order a replacement actuator first though before I dig in.

Thank you all for your replies!
 

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