"While you're in there" I would do a new thermostat and housing.
New pcv valve too and the heater hose connects.
New pcv valve too and the heater hose connects.
While I’m in there
- Thread starter liquify33
- Start date
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I have run across that broken part in the manifold. That connector is made of pot metal. Very brittle. I used to take a small sharp chisel and start at the top and work slowly down and chip the broken piece out. It is a tedious process but does work. Before you know it you can break a crack in to it from top to bottom and then it will collapse into itself. When install new fitting use thread tape. Before you run that in with the tape on it, use your new fitting as a tap and even get extra fittings and cut a slot on the threads ad use that fitting/tap to clean out the old threads. Be prepared to go slow and a little at a time and back off and clean out the cuttings and lube the threads again.
If you can get/rent a real tap, even better.
If you can get/rent a real tap, even better.
OP
OP
liquify33
Full Access Member
Got it all back together, ran rough and threw the p1435 distributor code. I tried to adjust it over a tooth and and it hasn’t started since, even after moving it back to first rough position. It just cranks and cranks. Timing light did not fire on the coil wire.
I pulled the distributor out to start over and check my work and 1 of the plastic tabs is broken.
Gonna replace the distributor tomorrow, hoping I can source a quality part locally.
I pulled the distributor out to start over and check my work and 1 of the plastic tabs is broken.
Gonna replace the distributor tomorrow, hoping I can source a quality part locally.
Sounds like you got your rig back up and running. Which is great! As far as that heater hose quick connect fitting, I hate that thing. I removed mine and found a threaded pipe fitting with a barbed end. Then just used regular heater hose. No more cheap pot metal to fail and leaking BS quick connects.
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liquify33
Full Access Member
yes it’s back to running tip top!
The only concern I had with doing the same conversion is the flow restriction built into that unit. I read elsewhere it *could* lead to blown heaters and fittings downstream.
The Dorman unit is a lot more stout, hope to get another 20 years out of it.
