What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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Random shots of the process:

Gutted front:

IMG_4912.JPG


Traced the slot in the Belltech alignment cam with silver Sharpie to mark where the frame slot will be elongated:

IMG_4908.JPG


Used cheap set of rotary rasps from Harbor Freight. Surprisingly, I did all eight slots with this one bit. It was pretty worn and cut much slower on the last few, but still did it. I also had to switch to a right angle drill because the angle grinder fell apart.

IMG_4909.JPG


Elongated slot:

IMG_4913.JPG


New control arm with factory cams:

IMG_4914.JPG

I wanted to use the factory alignment as a baseline which would be lost with the Belltech cams. So I marked the positions of the original ones before I removed the old control arms. I also kept the original cams in their original order after removing them. After elongating the slots, I reassembled everything with the old cams and turned the bolts to position the new arms per the original alignment marks. Then, I carefully removed one bolt at a time to reinstall them with the Belltech cams. The frame mounts were tight enough to keep the arm in position while I removed and replaced the bolts. With the BT cams in place, I marked them so the baseline would be maintained as a reference.

I cut a piece of angle iron to span the lips of the wheels, vertically across the middle, and stuck a magnetic angle finder on it to measure the camber before and after the spindles and control arms were replaced. The spindles caused a lot of toe out and about 1/2" total narrower track width. I've got the toe pretty close and it tracks mostly straight. The steering was overly responsive, so I dialed in some positive caster. The steering wheel at first was at about 9 o'clock and is now around 12:15, so I went a hair too far. But, it's completely driveable and will be fine-tuned during and after Phase 2.
 
Last edited:

lowh07

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Finally fixed the broken applique. Also cleaned up all of the caked on dirt behind the handle and installed an aluminum bowtie. It rained today so it’s a bit dirty in the pic. Removed the useless handle thingy on the back window.

Ordered some white vinyl and I’m going to wrap the fake wood next weekend probably.
5647A4A1-70C5-4198-ADB5-B9F8DE012C6A.jpeg
 

89Suburban

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Random shots of the process:

Gutted front:

View attachment 235191


Traced the slot in the Belltech alignment cam with silver Sharpie to mark where the frame slot will be elongated:

View attachment 235192


Used cheap set of rotary rasps from Harbor Freight. Surprisingly, I did all eight slots with this one bit. It was pretty worn and cut much slower on the last few, but still did it. I also had to switch to a right angle drill because the angle grinder fell apart.

View attachment 235193


Elongated slot:

View attachment 235194


New control arm with factory cams:

View attachment 235196

I wanted to use the factory alignment as a baseline which would be lost with the Belltech cams. So I marked the positions of the original ones before I removed the old control arms. I also kept the original cams in their original order after removing them. After elongating the slots, I reassembled everything with the old cams and turned the bolts to position the new arms per the original alignment marks. Then, I carefully removed one bolt at a time to reinstall them with the Belltech cams. The frame mounts were tight enough to keep the arm in position while I removed and replaced the bolts. With the BT cams in place, I marked them so the baseline would be maintained as a reference.

I cut a piece of angle iron to span the lips of the wheels, vertically across the middle, and stuck a magnetic angle finder on it to measure the camber before and after the spindles and control arms were replaced. The spindles caused a lot of toe out and about 1/2" total narrower track width. I've got the toe pretty close and it tracks mostly straight. The steering was overly responsive, so I dialed in some positive caster. The steering wheel at first was at about 9 o'clock and is now around 12:15, so I went a hair too far. But, it's completely driveable and will be fine-tuned during and after Phase 2.

o_O:confused:
 

CHOO CHOO

BackPagePhil
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Roof racks don’t leak, there’s no holes in the roof where they’re attached. Its usually the shark fin antennas, they do have a hole through the roof where the cable goes through.
Any word on this? Did you do any digging to find the source?
 

CHOO CHOO

BackPagePhil
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Happy Thanksgiving to everyone. Went outside to move her and just saw this leak. This is the first real rain we have had in San Diego in over 6 months. Checked the roof rack and it’s tight. No noticeable rust holes. Any clues? 5725431ffb5c5a90b6d3b632cd5b93f3.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Any word on this? Did you do any digging to find the source?
 

Kee Fuller

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Finally fixed the broken applique. Also cleaned up all of the caked on dirt behind the handle and installed an aluminum bowtie. It rained today so it’s a bit dirty in the pic. Removed the useless handle thingy on the back window.

Ordered some white vinyl and I’m going to wrap the fake wood next weekend probably.
View attachment 235219

Just held on by 3m tape? The useless handle thingy that is.
 
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