11 second Yukon XL Denali 2wd?

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randeez

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I'm interested to see everyone's opinions on what it would take (mods and $) to turn a stock 2013 Yukon XL Denali 2wd into an 11 second daily driver. The good: 6.2 obviously, and you should also have the 9.5" 14b sf rear end check and see if you have a g80 locker if not definitely plan on getting some sort of traction aide.

Requirements:
Must maintain towing capacity & auto level suspension feature - it wont 60' worth a crap on stock suspension so plan an 1/2 second penalty or so, i would upgrade swapbars front/rear. how much are you honestly planning on towing? a torque converter would help out tremendously my yukon NA would pull 1.7 60's

Must maintain daily driver reliability - maintenance, tune,

No race gas....93 oct or E85 only - install flex fuel sensor, 93oct was ok with about 12psi and about the same amount of timing but doesnt allow much safety net if you get a bad tank or abnormal iats/heat soak, E85 is better than race gas imfo. however need more fuel system, plan on minimum 2-450 walbros or something to that effect

Would like 11's on drag radials, no ET Streets or slicks - 2wd a drag radial will def help, mickey thompson et streets are a nice drag radial? the only DRs to fit 20" wheels are all 29" overall last time i checked. stock tire is 32" or so if you plan on swapping to a DR it will throw off shift points rpm/mph

For reference, best time so far is 15.45@92 with a 2.3 60 ft in FL summer heat/humidity. - pretty much on par with everyone elses. i think mine did 15.2 (2012 6.2/awd shorty yukon) bone stock




sooo i did a pretty full bolt cam/bolt on and got it to run a 12.9@106mph iirc - slip may be in build thread, also in florida heat. ran those mods for over a year with very few problems. upgrading a few things along the way.

prerequisite: plan on deleting the DOD, and swapping cam, a boost cam will still make good power NA if there'll be time between mods, 700hp just an off the shelf cam will be more than enough. there is a difference between turbo and supercharged cams so plan accordingly. the 6l80 can live in that area WITH A GOOD SPOT ON TUNE. learning curve is very steep on tuning the transmission for high hp. i gave up and swapped to a 4l80 after mine died. engine will be fine, dont be stupid with it, same thing with the tune but a little more forgiving.

youre going to need boost to get to the 11s figure out now how you want to get there. PD (positive displacement) superchargers are packaged cleaner, easy to install, designed for the truck so a lot of the oem crap bolts right back on. but to get up to the 700hp+ ran you'll be doing more than a simple bolt on install, LSA/1900tvs will need to be ported/pullied, prob 8rib belt setup atleast, loads of torque etc. prochargers probably have more potential with a larger head unit, less low end than the PDs, still belt slip with stock belts, but plenty of room for them under the hood. with superchargers you can do headers/exhaust in the mean time.



for me i am going with a big single turbo, cam/converter pretty much compensate for any "lag" I could build a couple psi just on the foot brake with the 6.2 with an T6 s480/96. there are a few "kits" on the market i went with trickturbo, uses a cast manifold, install was all pretty simple. i went a little above and beyond to keep comforts probably but none of it was all that hard just takes some time to figure it all out. 700hp can be done with a much smaller/responsive turbo, the ol T4 76/75 will make that no problem and be in boost under 2500rpm on a 6.2.
 

swathdiver

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I'm interested to see everyone's opinions on what it would take (mods and $) to turn a stock 2013 Yukon XL Denali 2wd into an 11 second daily driver.

Requirements:
Must maintain towing capacity & auto level suspension feature
Must maintain daily driver reliability
No race gas....93 oct or E85 only
Would like 11's on drag radials, no ET Streets or slicks

For reference, best time so far is 15.45@92 with a 2.3 60 ft in FL summer heat/humidity.

and go....

You race at Orlando right?
 
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Sangster

Sangster

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@randeez thank you! That is all very great information! I may need to re-evaluate what I "need". It may make more sense to me to shoot for a mid-12 second time. I tow a 5k lb boat regularly and want to maintain that ability with some cushion.
 

randeez

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Hoping to have it together for cleetus and cars at Bradenton this month, coming up quick Nov 23rd I think. Already paid for a tech card/admission.
Truck.may not be ready to race but hopefully driveable
 

dirtedreamer

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I'm interested to see everyone's opinions on what it would take (mods and $) to turn a stock 2013 Yukon XL Denali 2wd into an 11 second daily driver. The good: 6.2 obviously, and you should also have the 9.5" 14b sf rear end check and see if you have a g80 locker if not definitely plan on getting some sort of traction aide.

Requirements:
Must maintain towing capacity & auto level suspension feature - it wont 60' worth a crap on stock suspension so plan an 1/2 second penalty or so, i would upgrade swapbars front/rear. how much are you honestly planning on towing? a torque converter would help out tremendously my yukon NA would pull 1.7 60's

Must maintain daily driver reliability - maintenance, tune,

No race gas....93 oct or E85 only - install flex fuel sensor, 93oct was ok with about 12psi and about the same amount of timing but doesnt allow much safety net if you get a bad tank or abnormal iats/heat soak, E85 is better than race gas imfo. however need more fuel system, plan on minimum 2-450 walbros or something to that effect

Would like 11's on drag radials, no ET Streets or slicks - 2wd a drag radial will def help, mickey thompson et streets are a nice drag radial? the only DRs to fit 20" wheels are all 29" overall last time i checked. stock tire is 32" or so if you plan on swapping to a DR it will throw off shift points rpm/mph

For reference, best time so far is 15.45@92 with a 2.3 60 ft in FL summer heat/humidity. - pretty much on par with everyone elses. i think mine did 15.2 (2012 6.2/awd shorty yukon) bone stock




sooo i did a pretty full bolt cam/bolt on and got it to run a 12.9@106mph iirc - slip may be in build thread, also in florida heat. ran those mods for over a year with very few problems. upgrading a few things along the way.

prerequisite: plan on deleting the DOD, and swapping cam, a boost cam will still make good power NA if there'll be time between mods, 700hp just an off the shelf cam will be more than enough. there is a difference between turbo and supercharged cams so plan accordingly. the 6l80 can live in that area WITH A GOOD SPOT ON TUNE. learning curve is very steep on tuning the transmission for high hp. i gave up and swapped to a 4l80 after mine died. engine will be fine, dont be stupid with it, same thing with the tune but a little more forgiving.

youre going to need boost to get to the 11s figure out now how you want to get there. PD (positive displacement) superchargers are packaged cleaner, easy to install, designed for the truck so a lot of the oem crap bolts right back on. but to get up to the 700hp+ ran you'll be doing more than a simple bolt on install, LSA/1900tvs will need to be ported/pullied, prob 8rib belt setup atleast, loads of torque etc. prochargers probably have more potential with a larger head unit, less low end than the PDs, still belt slip with stock belts, but plenty of room for them under the hood. with superchargers you can do headers/exhaust in the mean time.



for me i am going with a big single turbo, cam/converter pretty much compensate for any "lag" I could build a couple psi just on the foot brake with the 6.2 with an T6 s480/96. there are a few "kits" on the market i went with trickturbo, uses a cast manifold, install was all pretty simple. i went a little above and beyond to keep comforts probably but none of it was all that hard just takes some time to figure it all out. 700hp can be done with a much smaller/responsive turbo, the ol T4 76/75 will make that no problem and be in boost under 2500rpm on a 6.2.



how much fun was that front diff swap? it a little late now but suncoast makes 800hp (highly underrated) 6l80s just gotta talk to alec
 

randeez

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how much fun was that front diff swap? it a little late now but suncoast makes 800hp (highly underrated) 6l80s just gotta talk to alec

diff swap wasnt to bad actually it was just the unknown of everything that sucked couldnt find anyone who had done the swap in a truck or suv. really didnt want to keep spending money on it not knowing it would even work until i got down to the end.

i bought the 9.25 diff with 4.10s already in it. i was wanting to swap gears in the rear diff and install the 9.25 at the same time.
in the middle of all that my daily got rear ended and totaled so i ended up swapping the stock 8.25ifs and rear with 4.10s so i could drive it in the mean time. and like a month after the front end ate itself alive and seized up. so i really didnt want to get another awd front diff and swap gears into it and hope it lived.

there were a few companies that built 6l80s when i killed mine - century, circle d, etc. but across the board all of them seemed to put 8-900hp rating on them. there just isnt billet hard parts (input/output, drums, sprags) for them. cost would have been pretty similar for a built 6l80 that no one would tell me was good for more than 800hp, or doing the built 4l80 swap with one that is currently in several 1500hp+ cars/trucks
and then you have a few trucks with stock 6l80s with tune dead on that live@800hp
 

dirtedreamer

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diff swap wasnt to bad actually it was just the unknown of everything that sucked couldnt find anyone who had done the swap in a truck or suv. really didnt want to keep spending money on it not knowing it would even work until i got down to the end.

i bought the 9.25 diff with 4.10s already in it. i was wanting to swap gears in the rear diff and install the 9.25 at the same time.
in the middle of all that my daily got rear ended and totaled so i ended up swapping the stock 8.25ifs and rear with 4.10s so i could drive it in the mean time. and like a month after the front end ate itself alive and seized up. so i really didnt want to get another awd front diff and swap gears into it and hope it lived.

there were a few companies that built 6l80s when i killed mine - century, circle d, etc. but across the board all of them seemed to put 8-900hp rating on them. there just isnt billet hard parts (input/output, drums, sprags) for them. cost would have been pretty similar for a built 6l80 that no one would tell me was good for more than 800hp, or doing the built 4l80 swap with one that is currently in several 1500hp+ cars/trucks
and then you have a few trucks with stock 6l80s with tune dead on that live@800hp


thats were im at. im on my second front diff. im 4.88 due to tire size and the power plus the traction makes these 8.25 time bombs that plus no traction devices makes me really want to swap the front to that. i have custom axles right now and from what i have gathered the 07 and older Dmax share the same 33 spline so i would use the inner cvs from that and the outers off the denali and just get new shafts made. even if the spines are different inside and out it doesnt matter to me as i have to get new ones made any way. front diver shaft length different? what were you doing with the awd? i was told to just make a billet plug the same as the 4x4 actuator so its "locked" in 4x4 at all times
 

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