This ain’t right, is it?

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iamdub

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Oh really, didn't expect that to be normal. Especially because drivers rear side has much less till no movement.

I don't really know how to explain the sounds. Last week on the highway driving like 70/80 some strange kind of rattling noise. Like the sound of a train wheel crossing the rail sections on the rails. But yesterday I also chased some other sound. That came from rear drivers side. I found out it was my pads hitting my rotors. So I connected the caliper and pushed the pistons back a little so it had space again. Then I went for a drive and thought it was gone.. But when I did some propper braking it came back. So that needs more investigation as well. But I still have the feeling that the sound described above is from something else. Maybe the drive shaft. It has play in it, but I have been told that should not be a problem, yet...


Typical manufacturing tolerances could be the reason for that. One axle tube may have not been fully pressed in when the rear was being built, so the distance from the center section to the outer tube end may be slightly longer, reducing the distance the axle shaft can slide in and out. If, somehow, the C-clip for the passenger side fell out (it'd pretty much have to break for this to happen), the only thing holding the axle and wheel in place would be the disc brake assembly. The outer brake pad would be worn much more and you'd possibly feel a little sideways movement in the rear end when hitting the brakes.

Disc brakes, by design, drag the pads slightly on the rotors. There shouldn't be any space. If there's enough movement to cause noise, then the pads are either severely worn and could be rattling (AKA "chattering") or they just need to be shimmed and/or the anti-rattle clips are worn or broken or missing.
 

Erickk120

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If I'm not mistaken one of the c clips is thicker than the other, not sure what spec end play is but if too much you can adjust by adding a thicker C clip. Doubt its your problem though.
 
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Tonny

Tonny

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Explain connected the caliper and brake pads The pads shouldn’t be moving at all. This part sounds like a bad caliper. You shouldn’t be able to hear the pads hitting anything. Is brake fluid full?
I'm sorry, probably sad that because that's how European cars work ;) I should have sad, disconnected the caliper, pushed the pistols back a little and connected it again. I have to recheck this problem again, then I will also check if my rotor is straight. Because that's what it sounds like.

When you are pulling on the studs in the first post with a video, do all the studs move at the same time or just each individual stud? From what I'm interpreting, with the wheel on and the lug nuts tighten to spec, if you wiggle the tire you can see play in the lug nut / stud?
They move all together. And when you connect the wheel and replicate the sound, you see that the wheel and rotor move all together.

Typical manufacturing tolerances could be the reason for that. One axle tube may have not been fully pressed in when the rear was being built, so the distance from the center section to the outer tube end may be slightly longer, reducing the distance the axle shaft can slide in and out. If, somehow, the C-clip for the passenger side fell out (it'd pretty much have to break for this to happen), the only thing holding the axle and wheel in place would be the disc brake assembly. The outer brake pad would be worn much more and you'd possibly feel a little sideways movement in the rear end when hitting the brakes.

Disc brakes, by design, drag the pads slightly on the rotors. There shouldn't be any space. If there's enough movement to cause noise, then the pads are either severely worn and could be rattling (AKA "chattering") or they just need to be shimmed and/or the anti-rattle clips are worn or broken or missing.
Wauw, thanks for the explanation. Really appreciate that. I will recheck everything again when I have time but after this answer I don't think there is a problem with that then.

As for the brake sound. I've it on video also, but I think that the left rotor is crooked, because that's how it sounds. Let me upload the other video, one moment.

If I'm not mistaken one of the c clips is thicker than the other, not sure what spec end play is but if too much you can adjust by adding a thicker C clip. Doubt its your problem though.
Oh alright, gees you guys know everything :) Will keep this in mind. Thanks
 
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Tonny

Tonny

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It sound like metal on metal but my pads still have meat! Next time I will remove the wheel and I wheel screw the nuts on again, then see what it does.

 

Scottydoggs

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that could be over tight brake shoes, they are inside the rotor. look and work like old school drum brakes. have to take the caliper and the bracket off to remove the rotor, then turn the rotor by hand listening for the rub, if you hear it take the rotor off and back off the e brake star wheel, rotor back on, spin it listen for the rub. e bakes shoes could also be shot and the lining came off or something silly like that.

or maybe the stability control trying to work due to the front wheels not moving.
 
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Tonny

Tonny

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that could be over tight brake shoes, they are inside the rotor. look and work like old school drum brakes. have to take the caliper and the bracket off to remove the rotor, then turn the rotor by hand listening for the rub, if you hear it take the rotor off and back off the e brake star wheel, rotor back on, spin it listen for the rub. e bakes shoes could also be shot and the lining came off or something silly like that.

or maybe the stability control trying to work due to the front wheels not moving.
Whell with the new MOT in March it got some lines renewed so the parking brake is on my mind also. That was with the previous owner. That doesn't sound to difficult to chase

I don't think the last thing is this case since I also hear it driving. Does mine even have stability control? I don't think so.

Disc rotor scraping on the backplate?
Will check that also.

Thanks for the input guys :)
 

Scottydoggs

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my 05 has traction control and stability control. if you hold the tc button in for like 10 seconds it will dis able stability and tc. mine says it in the cluster. not 100% sure if your year has it. owner manual would tell you for sure tho.
 

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