HELP!!! .... w/ Oil pan gasket sealant and torque specs.

SOOOOO....I have removed my oil pan on my 2004 tahoe 5.3 4wd so I can do the dreaded oil pickup tube o-ring job. But im hesitant to put it back together because I dont know which sealant to use. The service manual calls for Ac Delco sealant and others say they have used permatex RTV. I kno...I kno... most would say Permatex RTV is just fine but the same guys that said they used RTV also are now saying that their oil pan is leaking again. So my question is "should I go to the stealership and buy the AC delco (unicorn *****) sealant or should I use RTV and hope that it works? Has anybody else on here had any long term success with RTV. Ive also read that the AC delco sealent is special in a way that it seals better to the cast aluminum oil pan soo idk if that matters. The original sealant seems pretty hard not like RTV which is more soft. So if anybody can chime in that has done this with GOOD results i would appreciate it.
I forgot to mention I dont Know the torque sequence or specs for the oil pan either, so if anybody knows where I can get that info that would be awesome.

HELP... PLEASE...I NEED TO GET THIS HOE ON THE ROAD.

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I have used the permatex RTV for 20k leak free miles, you wont need much, a small amount in the corners where the front and rear covers meet the pan gasket

there is no torque sequence

1. Tighten the oil pan-to-block and oil pan-to-oil pan front cover bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
2. Tighten the oil pan-to-rear cover bolts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).

Also, makes sure the rear of the pan is aligned STRAIGHT with the back of the engine.

Having recently removed and replaced every cover on an '06, I can personally vouch for what 01FormulaTA posted. I would also like to emphasize the INCH lbs. for the two long bolts in the back side of the oil pan.

For any motor I've assembled, I've never had a problem with any of various brands of RTV. I use grey or black for oil gaskets. As far as the sealing part is concerned, it's a metal cover mating up to a metal flange just like any other oil pan has done for decades. I don't see GM setting up a laboratory to design and a plant to produce some "unicorn *****" for 4 little dabs of sealant on their oil pans. Whatever is in their ACDelco-labeled tube can be found on parts store shelves in a tube with a different branding. It even says to "apply GM part #12378190 or equivalent...". Just don't use the "red" stuff.

There are too many factors in this that can cause leaks. People reporting leaks and blaming it on not using ACDelco's stuff should be taken lightly.

Thanks guys. Kinda figured that was gunna be the case. Just so im not mistaken oil pan to trans should be within .010?

SlimJim said:

Thanks guys. Kinda figured that was gunna be the case. Just so im not mistaken oil pan to trans should be within .010?

Click to expand...

More accurately, it can not be FORWARD from the trans (bellhousing) more than .010". It can NOT protrude towards the back of the engine AT ALL. If you just removed the oil pan with the engine and trans in place, then you have a "straightedge" to butt it up against. I lightly snug up the oil pan bolts while bumping the pan towards the trans with a rubber mallet. You'll see a few small spots where you can check the relation with a straightedge or feeler gauge.

Double, triple and quadruple check both sides repeatedly as you tighten because it'll move as you tighten the oil pan bolts.

I like this reference guide:

https://www.lsenginediy.com/ls-engine-rebuilds-final-assembly-guide/

Scroll down to Steps 35, 36, ...

So ive replaced the o-ring and oil pan gasket. Used the RTV and torqued it all down, so far no leaks. My oil pressure at cold idle is 40 psi and warm idle is at 20-30 psi. Cruising and highway speeds 1500-2500 rpm is 40 psi. Does this sound normal? I like to see 40 psi at warm idle and anywhere from 40-60 at cruising to highway speeds. Honestly i was hoping for way better than 20-30 psi at warm idle. What are your guys normal oil psi ranges?