Steering Play after Pitman change

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overlookingsea

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I changed out the Pitman arm, Idler arm and Idler arm bracket on my 2005 Yukon XL Denali 218k miles. I was going for the new year NH inspection and two places failed me because of Pitman/Idler arm play. I didn't agree, even with the wheel shake test, but I don't have any say in this... Either replace or don't drive it... a failed test for safety puts the truck in park apparently.

So, I ordered Moog HD parts, and replaced them. Not a fun job, but got it done with a little tool rental help from Autozone.

Now there is about one inch play in the steering wheel where there was none before. It used to drive straight and true with smooth turning. NOW it feels really weird. There is good feel and response at steering wheel during a turn, but the wheels feel as though their going to get away from me. Kinda hard to explain. Only to say that driving down a flat, straight road, I can move the wheel about an inch now without instant response.

What did I do wrong?

I used pickle fork for idler arm to center link and just pulled out the idler arm and bracket together. (reassembled new parts on bench to 80 ft lbs per Moog CC agent). Used pickle fork again on Pitman arm to center link. Used Pitman Arm Puller, but had to cut a line in old part to free up from steering box shaft (didn't damage splines as I only went about 90% through ). I did have to use an air hammer with chisel briefly in that cut groove to free up enough for Puller to work. Perhaps that action shook too much and damaged something inside Steering Box??
Also, Inner and Outer Tie Rods replaced with Moog about six months ago. No leaks and seem tight. There doesn't appear to be any real wheel movement when testing on jack stands.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks!
PitmanArm-IdlerArm&IdlerArmBracket.jpg
PitmanArmCut2.jpg PitmanArmCut1.jpg
 

zraffz

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I assume you jacked up the front end and grabbed a tire and checked for play based on your last sentence. If no play is present, it has to be in the box, shaft or column.

I have cut into the steering box output shaft in the past on several occasions without any issues other than paranoia lol.
 

06JET

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I would put it on the ground and have someone turn the steering wheel while I looked at the steering linkage to see where the movement is. You may have damaged the bearings in the steering box. If so I would think it would be leaking fluid out. The new part could be bad.
 

BigChuckMN

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I changed out the Pitman arm, Idler arm and Idler arm bracket on my 2005 Yukon XL Denali 218k miles. I was going for the new year NH inspection and two places failed me because of Pitman/Idler arm play. I didn't agree, even with the wheel shake test, but I don't have any say in this... Either replace or don't drive it... a failed test for safety puts the truck in park apparently.

So, I ordered Moog HD parts, and replaced them. Not a fun job, but got it done with a little tool rental help from Autozone.

Now there is about one inch play in the steering wheel where there was none before. It used to drive straight and true with smooth turning. NOW it feels really weird. There is good feel and response at steering wheel during a turn, but the wheels feel as though their going to get away from me. Kinda hard to explain. Only to say that driving down a flat, straight road, I can move the wheel about an inch now without instant response.

What did I do wrong?

I used pickle fork for idler arm to center link and just pulled out the idler arm and bracket together. (reassembled new parts on bench to 80 ft lbs per Moog CC agent). Used pickle fork again on Pitman arm to center link. Used Pitman Arm Puller, but had to cut a line in old part to free up from steering box shaft (didn't damage splines as I only went about 90% through ). I did have to use an air hammer with chisel briefly in that cut groove to free up enough for Puller to work. Perhaps that action shook too much and damaged something inside Steering Box??
Also, Inner and Outer Tie Rods replaced with Moog about six months ago. No leaks and seem tight. There doesn't appear to be any real wheel movement when testing on jack stands.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks!
View attachment 219074
View attachment 219076 View attachment 219075

Overlookingsea - I have a 2004 Yukon Denali and I just had the same Moog parts installed on my truck over the weekend. Picked my vehicle up and the steering was really wonky and just as you describe. Definitely can relate to the 1 inch of play in the steering. Brought vehicle immediately back. Will report back with what my mechanic says.
 

Doubeleive

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lol, come to California as long as you have no cel light and cat's your good to go, you could roll that thing in with 3 wheels and a skateboard and be on your way in less than 5 minutes
 

petethepug

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Watching one of the shows on the MT channel I saw that there’s an adjustment on the box of most non rack n pin units. Occasionally it can take out some of the slop on a well seasoned box but it’s mostly used to dial in a fresh install of a replacement box.

The tech that installed it should be aware of it and how to dial it in. If it’s a self install I’d check the inter webs for a YouTube on it. Must be the season, getting our 08 back today w/ a new rack and outer tie rods today. It’s prolly the last thing the 4 yr 40k service contract will cover when it ends at it’s 4th birthday next Mo.

Damn fine thing to come out ahead. Dumped the GMC Caddie dealer for a local diesel shop who’s not afraid to take on a job that’s not cookie cutter. It took him 15 to condemn a bad ex mani gask on #7 and a broken stud. #8 has a broken stud too but gasket is ok. Dealer concealed this for 4 years to avoid the job because it was too hard. Mofo’s!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

BigChuckMN

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I changed out the Pitman arm, Idler arm and Idler arm bracket on my 2005 Yukon XL Denali 218k miles. I was going for the new year NH inspection and two places failed me because of Pitman/Idler arm play. I didn't agree, even with the wheel shake test, but I don't have any say in this... Either replace or don't drive it... a failed test for safety puts the truck in park apparently.

So, I ordered Moog HD parts, and replaced them. Not a fun job, but got it done with a little tool rental help from Autozone.

Now there is about one inch play in the steering wheel where there was none before. It used to drive straight and true with smooth turning. NOW it feels really weird. There is good feel and response at steering wheel during a turn, but the wheels feel as though their going to get away from me. Kinda hard to explain. Only to say that driving down a flat, straight road, I can move the wheel about an inch now without instant response.

What did I do wrong?

I used pickle fork for idler arm to center link and just pulled out the idler arm and bracket together. (reassembled new parts on bench to 80 ft lbs per Moog CC agent). Used pickle fork again on Pitman arm to center link. Used Pitman Arm Puller, but had to cut a line in old part to free up from steering box shaft (didn't damage splines as I only went about 90% through ). I did have to use an air hammer with chisel briefly in that cut groove to free up enough for Puller to work. Perhaps that action shook too much and damaged something inside Steering Box??
Also, Inner and Outer Tie Rods replaced with Moog about six months ago. No leaks and seem tight. There doesn't appear to be any real wheel movement when testing on jack stands.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks!
View attachment 219074
View attachment 219076 View attachment 219075

Overlookingsea - What part number did you order?
 

91RS

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Gear box usually has play in it by the time the pitman arm requires replacement, I always adjust the gear when doing a pitman arm.
 

Nicholas Boyd

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Do you remember if you used a 3 spline or 4? Gonna try to order a kit tonight and would appreciate any info.
 

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