swathdiver
Full Access Member
I don't remember seeing this before but am subbed now.
Loose steering feel, lower steering shaft?
- Thread starter Truestyle Scott
- Start date
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Warriorpluto
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2017
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Yes sometimes i can hear the steering shaft vibrate from the steering wheel.
Ok well, it did not happen today.
I'm not prepared at all and cant afford to be without my ride for the weekdays.
I don't think my plan on renting a bushing/bearing press is going to work in my favor from past experiences.
So, I need to get some fluid for my shop press, find some plugs for the steering lines and rack and find something to press the old bushings out. I think I have something to press them in. I'll source something from work or turn something down on the lathe.
I will be starting Friday as soon as I get home from work. That way I can get it up on jack stands and get the wheels off. I wasn't expecting to have remove the whole rack but that's what it looks like I'll be doing.
For anyone doing this, you need to make sure your steering wheel is strapped so it will not move or the clocking spring could break.
There's a video by 1AAuto on YouTube that's pretty detailed on how to replace a steering rack.
Sorry to babble and for not having any progressive info but I will have more Fri/Sat
Have a great night
I'm not prepared at all and cant afford to be without my ride for the weekdays.
I don't think my plan on renting a bushing/bearing press is going to work in my favor from past experiences.
So, I need to get some fluid for my shop press, find some plugs for the steering lines and rack and find something to press the old bushings out. I think I have something to press them in. I'll source something from work or turn something down on the lathe.
I will be starting Friday as soon as I get home from work. That way I can get it up on jack stands and get the wheels off. I wasn't expecting to have remove the whole rack but that's what it looks like I'll be doing.
For anyone doing this, you need to make sure your steering wheel is strapped so it will not move or the clocking spring could break.
There's a video by 1AAuto on YouTube that's pretty detailed on how to replace a steering rack.
Sorry to babble and for not having any progressive info but I will have more Fri/Sat
Have a great night
if your replacing the steering rack go with the electric power steering rack.. you will have to pluck it out of a hybrid though..Ok well, it did not happen today.
I'm not prepared at all and cant afford to be without my ride for the weekdays.
I don't think my plan on renting a bushing/bearing press is going to work in my favor from past experiences.
So, I need to get some fluid for my shop press, find some plugs for the steering lines and rack and find something to press the old bushings out. I think I have something to press them in. I'll source something from work or turn something down on the lathe.
I will be starting Friday as soon as I get home from work. That way I can get it up on jack stands and get the wheels off. I wasn't expecting to have remove the whole rack but that's what it looks like I'll be doing.
For anyone doing this, you need to make sure your steering wheel is strapped so it will not move or the clocking spring could break.
There's a video by 1AAuto on YouTube that's pretty detailed on how to replace a steering rack.
Sorry to babble and for not having any progressive info but I will have more Fri/Sat
Have a great night
aka EPS.. There is no bump steer at all.. really nice I can let go of the steering and you can really see how not so straight roads really are..
it requires user input, without user input the ESP motor is off .. unlike hydraulic PS.. no bump steer.. whining or having to deal with Power steering fluid.. saves upto 10HP
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Unfortunately I'm just replacing the bushings in my rack. Cant justify spending so much for a rebuilt unit when I can do it myself.
Though that sounds interesting about the electric rack. I'm going to look into.
Thanks for sharing Brent, its much appreciated
Got it jacked up and wheels off for now.
This is nice.
I'll be calling the shop who did my alignment to discuss some kind of deal. This should have never gotten to this point to begin with. If they do not budge, I'll have to find somewhere else to go.
This is nice.
I'll be calling the shop who did my alignment to discuss some kind of deal. This should have never gotten to this point to begin with. If they do not budge, I'll have to find somewhere else to go.
This was as simple as it gets and it didn't take much time at all and it definitely helped to prepare ahead of time.
Surprisingly, the bushings came out smoothly and went in just as smooth.
One thing to note is, the bushings are aligned in a certain way. There is an alignment washer that spans both bushings that fits between the rack and crossmember. It is pressed on when torqueing down the bolts.
You must have this aligned properly or the bolts will put a great amount of pressure on the bushing causing premature wear.
Otherwise, this was easy. I didn't throw anything, break anything or even curse during the entire install. That tells you a lot if you know me haha.
If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask. I'm not the greatest and the details but if there is something in particular you'd like to know, fire away.
EDIT: the only thing I didn't do was replace the round bushing that goes around the passenger side of the rack. You need some kind of crimp and tool and since it was pretty firm, I let it be.
Surprisingly, the bushings came out smoothly and went in just as smooth.
One thing to note is, the bushings are aligned in a certain way. There is an alignment washer that spans both bushings that fits between the rack and crossmember. It is pressed on when torqueing down the bolts.
You must have this aligned properly or the bolts will put a great amount of pressure on the bushing causing premature wear.
Otherwise, this was easy. I didn't throw anything, break anything or even curse during the entire install. That tells you a lot if you know me haha.
If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask. I'm not the greatest and the details but if there is something in particular you'd like to know, fire away.
EDIT: the only thing I didn't do was replace the round bushing that goes around the passenger side of the rack. You need some kind of crimp and tool and since it was pretty firm, I let it be.
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Little update, not much.
After driving round for a about a day, I am pleased to say this as help tremendously.
AND, when I back into my driveway I always heard noises (thinking it was my rear suspension) when in all actuality it was my steering rack.
Now, I have to deal with the shop who did my alignment twice and hope they give me a deal AND let me back there to watch. If not, I'll be going somewhere else.
After driving round for a about a day, I am pleased to say this as help tremendously.
AND, when I back into my driveway I always heard noises (thinking it was my rear suspension) when in all actuality it was my steering rack.
Now, I have to deal with the shop who did my alignment twice and hope they give me a deal AND let me back there to watch. If not, I'll be going somewhere else.
petethepug
Michael
Purch our 08 Denali AWD in 14 and 96k. Steering feel was ok. Up until last Mo 3-2019, more alignments were needed and steering input was increased to every 2-5 seconds. Noticed the rack boots were leaking and lock to lock was clucking at full lock.
Got our service contract to replace the rack at 136k. I had to pay $2h to upgrade to a genuine AC Delco rebuilt rack because the SC Co wanted to install a generic junk rebuilt rack. Paid for outer tie rods as the inner were incl w/ new rack.
The SC Co waived our $100 deductible since we didn’t slam them at the GMC dealer this time. The tech took another $100 off since we had a 5 yr alignment policy somewhere else. Essentially 100% of the part/labor we’re covered.
The outcome of a new rack, inner and outer tie rods was clear. Less play, almost no corrections needed in straight line driving and smooth as buttah. The control arm bushings are next on the maint list. Wheels are stock 20’s. There’s a slight hmm from the new rack. Waiting to see if it’s air, p/s pump or the rack. Either way you’ve gotta get into the ALL the serviceable bushings on the rack components after 100-125k miles.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Got our service contract to replace the rack at 136k. I had to pay $2h to upgrade to a genuine AC Delco rebuilt rack because the SC Co wanted to install a generic junk rebuilt rack. Paid for outer tie rods as the inner were incl w/ new rack.
The SC Co waived our $100 deductible since we didn’t slam them at the GMC dealer this time. The tech took another $100 off since we had a 5 yr alignment policy somewhere else. Essentially 100% of the part/labor we’re covered.
The outcome of a new rack, inner and outer tie rods was clear. Less play, almost no corrections needed in straight line driving and smooth as buttah. The control arm bushings are next on the maint list. Wheels are stock 20’s. There’s a slight hmm from the new rack. Waiting to see if it’s air, p/s pump or the rack. Either way you’ve gotta get into the ALL the serviceable bushings on the rack components after 100-125k miles.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
