Shutter at approximately 58 mph

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cags

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its got to be a axle shaft gone bad, only reason for to be there only when in the gas, when you coast theres no load on it so the vibration goes away. just like a U joint in a drive shaft. if it was a tire it would vibrate no matter in the gas or not.

i just started to get a vibration at 70 mph, i could tell it was the front tires right away, rotated em and no more vibration. but mine didnt go away at 70 on or off the gas, how i just knew it had to be the wheels.

Hi Scott,
I will get my 35mm impact socket and start to yank them out. Look like it pays to buy new shaft instead of trying to change ujoint inside of boot. Thanks a million. Will keep you tuned. Joe
 

Scottydoggs

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rebuilding is doable. but a major pita im sure. watched vids for my regal, and was like ill just buy reman 1/2 shafts lol


another tip, do not drive the truck with no shafts in place, the wheel hub/bearing will explode and toss the front wheel off the truck.....seems like a good test but it can bad pretty fast.
 

alaska_guy

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When you lift off the throttle does the issue go away? Sounds like torque converter shudder to me. Typically if it's driveline related you feel it around 35mph on most vehicles. Next time it happens let off the accelerator and tap the brakes and then try accelerate again.

I briefly read the posts, but my money is in bad torque converter. Google torque converter shudder.
 
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cags

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When you lift off the throttle does the issue go away? Sounds like torque converter shudder to me. Typically if it's driveline related you feel it around 35mph on most vehicles. Next time it happens let off the accelerator and tap the brakes and then try accelerate again.

I briefly read the posts, but my money is in bad torque converter. Google torque converter shudder.
hey kendall,did check my axle shafts all okay reinstalled and continuing tshooting. I did notice a drop in rpm when approaching 58mph and slight fluctuation on tach needle. Looks as if lockup in 4th is teeter tottering. Am thinking tcc solenoid or possible clutch. Will go and check filter after draining and removing pan. If filter is clean with no metal will replenish fluid and filter and go from there.
Thanks for the info.

Joe
 

alaska_guy

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K, just FYI... My truck did the torque converter shudder for a good 4 years before my torque converter finally let go. Truck is in the shop getting the transmission overhauled. Truck has 255k on the original transmission and torque converter. I knew it was gonna give up the ghost eventually and I wanted to rebuild the transmission anyhow with that many miles vs just fixing torque converter.

My fluid always looked red and clear, no metal ever and fluid level was always fine. Took about 40k miles after i noticed it before it finally completely failed.
 

kiboater

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You might want to explore the TCC (torque converter clutch) issue. Generally if something is bent or loose the vibration does not go away. Balance issues will peak at a given rpm. The more likely possibility is an issue when the torque converter locks up at 40-50 mph to increase mileage. It can cause a shutter. There are various ways to diagnose this including shifting to a lower gear. Here is a link to a GM bulletin for the newer trucks and describes the problem. There is a later bulletin that calls for the fluid to be changed and replaced with a newer designed fluid.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10139218-9999.pdf
 

Rocket Man

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Hey Scott,
Yes I have a awd Yukon. Thanks again

Joe
Definately don’t drive without the front driveshaft even for a tiny bit then or you’ll destroy the transfer case. Just a heads up.
 

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