What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Wes
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Likely too late now, but I’d just say to try moving around with a pry bar, to see how easily it moves, as with pretty much anything underneath.


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they have a rubber bushing so I'm guessing they are designed to have some movement, I think at least some of my noise may bad lower ball joints just have to get it in somewhere for a second opinion
 

Sam Harris

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they have a rubber bushing so I'm guessing they are designed to have some movement, I think at least some of my noise may bad lower ball joints just have to get it in somewhere for a second opinion
Right, obviously they move a bit. But shouldn’t move too much // too easily.


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BourbonNcigars

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they have a rubber bushing so I'm guessing they are designed to have some movement, I think at least some of my noise may bad lower ball joints just have to get it in somewhere for a second opinion
My suspicion is the same. I'd think it has to have some freedom (not too much, though) to keep the drive train movement flowing without completely binding.
 

kbuskill

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Before:

View attachment 216582

During:

View attachment 216583


After:

View attachment 216584

The color matches better from normal angles and lighting:

View attachment 216585

View attachment 216586


Thanks for the lead, @mazdawg(Mikey)!

What did you remove the gold with???

Lacquer thinner and a Q-tip???

Is that part of the instructions for install or are you just that ****???... lol

*** EDIT***

Nevermind I just saw your post in your build thread about it... didn't see that before I posed these questions.
 

iamdub

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What did you remove the gold with???

Lacquer thinner and a Q-tip???

Is that part of the instructions for install or are you just that ****???... lol

*** EDIT***

Nevermind I just saw your post in your build thread about it... didn't see that before I posed these questions.

Just an alcohol prep pad. I use them for everything: Cleaning cell phone screen, automotive bulbs, and any surface to which I'm applying a decal/sticker. Plus, I like the smell of rubbing alcohol. When it comes to stickers, I aim to make them look like they were printed on the surface directly. Trapped specks of dirt and air bubbles eat at me.

Anyway, I rubbed the gold part pretty hard to ensure it was completely clean. When I was done, I saw what I thought was a speck of something stuck to the gold part. When I tried to pick it out with my fingernail, I realized it was a tiny flap of the gold overlay sticking up. The alcohol softened it and I rubbed through in that one spot. It all came off with about three minutes of scratching with my fingernails. I'm glad this happened cuz that $5 sticker would've been stuck over a de-laminating layer which likely would've caused it to lift soon.

The only instructions that came with the decal was "Top" roughly scribbled with an ink pen on one side of the bow tie. It looked the same to me flipped either way, but I followed their "instructions" when placing it.
 

BourbonNcigars

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I saw what I thought was a speck of something stuck to the gold part. When I tried to pick it out with my fingernail, I realized it was a tiny flap of the gold overlay sticking up. The alcohol softened it and I rubbed through in that one spot. It all came off with about three minutes of scratching with my fingernails.
Scenarios like this are why I keep 80 to 5000 grit sandpaper in the tool box at all times.
 

iamdub

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Scenarios like this are why I keep 80 to 5000 grit sandpaper in the tool box at all times.

Not sure I've ever handled more than 2000 grit. Is 5000 grit basically lotion-free Kleenex?

Speaking of, I thought about using a fine sanding tip on a Dremel to scour the whole chrome part to give it an evenly dull finish, then use a slightly coarser grit rubbed in one direction to give it a brushed finish in efforts to match the brushed silver trim pieces on the steering wheel.
 

BourbonNcigars

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Not sure I've ever handled more than 2000 grit. Is 5000 grit basically lotion-free Kleenex?

Speaking of, I thought about using a fine sanding tip on a Dremel to scour the whole chrome part to give it an evenly dull finish, then use a slightly coarser grit rubbed in one direction to give it a brushed finish in efforts to match the brushed silver trim pieces on the steering wheel.
Not sure how fine a grit you can get on an attachment for a Dremel (best tool ever), but I don't see why that idea wouldn't work.

Past 3000 grit is useful for paint correction. If you've never sanded your paint before, it can be nerve wracking the first couple times. Just have to be slow and realize that it'll buff out (assuming you went light) with the proper technique and compound(s) with even a cheap orbital buffer.
 
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