05 g80 replacement

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
Lit549

Lit549

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2016
Posts
186
Reaction score
74
It doesn't whine while off the accelerator ,only with power applied,even barely.I haven't abused it at all except for overloaded towing,I don't think your suppose to haul a tahoe with the same tahoe,but idk..I ha e a yukon duragrip posi I bought for my c10,I think it'll work in this 8.6..I called lkq and they want 900$ for a "low.mile" replacement,which is 130k..


Did it whine during deceleration or acceleration? I ask because if it only whined during decel it was a loose pinion nut that needed to be retorqued, if it whined during both could have been that the nut was more than just loose. I can't imagine a bearing being bad and lasting over 40k being that loose to have pinion end play that bad. I'm not sure about the whole difference between JL4 and non JL4 RPO. Maybe someone can educate us about the differences, could be just different brake pads or brake pistons. As far as going with the 1 wheel wonder, I would rather have the option and not use it than not having it and having to use it. Although knowing the g80 it might put you in this very same situation again if abused, so its really something to think about. Salvage yards are a good place to get them for cheap.
 
OP
OP
Lit549

Lit549

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2016
Posts
186
Reaction score
74
how hard is it to change the whole thing?Just curious,looks pretty straight forward?
 

Erickk120

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2018
Posts
384
Reaction score
213
It's pretty straight forward, jack the truck put it on jackstands then support the diff by the pumpkin. Remove the tires, remove the nut that holds the rear e brake cable nut by the rear driver side by the frame. Then unclip both cables that run through the back along with the clips in the panhard. Now you can start removing both brake brackets and hang them with what ever you want. Unbolt the shock bottom bolts and panhard bolt. Now undo the upper and lower mount bolts from both sides. You now can start lowering it down make sure everything clears and you didn't forget anything. You might wanna remove the fluid before removing. Install is the opposite, the only trick is to put the springs without pinching them, just make sure they are seated properly. After install fill it in a leveled area until it starts to drip from the fill hole and call it a day.
 

swathdiver

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2017
Posts
19,100
Reaction score
25,031
Location
Treasure Coast, Florida
It's pretty straight forward, jack the truck put it on jackstands then support the diff by the pumpkin. Remove the tires, remove the nut that holds the rear e brake cable nut by the rear driver side by the frame. Then unclip both cables that run through the back along with the clips in the panhard. Now you can start removing both brake brackets and hang them with what ever you want. Unbolt the shock bottom bolts and panhard bolt. Now undo the upper and lower mount bolts from both sides. You now can start lowering it down make sure everything clears and you didn't forget anything. You might wanna remove the fluid before removing. Install is the opposite, the only trick is to put the springs without pinching them, just make sure they are seated properly. After install fill it in a leveled area until it starts to drip from the fill hole and call it a day.

He'll never get the diff out that way! You forgot to tell him to disconnect the driveshaft! LOL HaHa Just funnin' ya Eric!
 
OP
OP
Lit549

Lit549

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2016
Posts
186
Reaction score
74
It shouldn't be to bad,I just did the rear main and oil pan gasket and that was a chore,but not too bad..Only thing that I was worried about was disconnecting the e brake cable and brake lines.I don't really want to have to bleed this system with it having hydro boost brakes..I'm pretty sure I can leave all the brake lines together and just unbolt it all from the rear diff ..
 

Erickk120

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2018
Posts
384
Reaction score
213
Yes, how bad of a job was the rear main seal, I've been putting mine off for some time, I might bite the bullet and do it I just have nightmares about pulling the tranny off.
 
OP
OP
Lit549

Lit549

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2016
Posts
186
Reaction score
74
Yes, how bad of a job was the rear main seal, I've been putting mine off for some time, I might bite the bullet and do it I just have nightmares about pulling the tranny off.
It wasn't to bad ,a few things that make it less of a headache is,buy the rear main and cover from summit,it comes with cover gasket,rear main seal installed and new bolts.I just slid the trans back about a foot so that saved alot of headache.Be sure to get the cover on right where it meets the oil pan .Took me 2 days of taking my time ,it doesn't leak at all..a
 
OP
OP
Lit549

Lit549

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2016
Posts
186
Reaction score
74
Got it all done,found a place 115k mile g80 gt4 out of a avalanche..Took me 6 hrs to do the swap and it wasn't bad at al..Turns out the rear end that's been in my truck is bad,it's had a whine since I bought it 2 yrs ago.I wasn't convinced it was the rear cause the noise sounded like it was in the front sometimes and in the rear at higher speed.Now it's super quiet..Paid 318$ for the replacement..Thanks for the help

20181216_132426.jpg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
128,788
Posts
1,805,477
Members
91,772
Latest member
dvnt
Top