Tire decision

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Matthew Jeschke

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I track my MPG religiously, both on a notebook I keep in the truck and also on the Fuelly app on my phone.

I did not notice any appreciable difference in MPG from the new tires. I did, however, apply an adjustment due to the larger diameter of the tires. So when I calculate mileage, I take the miles shown on the trip odometer and multiply them by 1.024 to account for the larger diameter.

I got the 1.024 number this way: Set the trip odometer to zero, hooked up a GPS with a trip odometer, set that to zero also. Drove about 300 miles. At the end of the 300 miles I took the miles shown on the GPS trip meter (which I figured were my "actual miles driven.") and divided by the miles shown on the truck's trip odometer. 1.024 was the result and now I know if I multiply the trip meter miles x 1.024 I will get the actual miles driven.

Though as far as MPG goes, let's get real here: We're talking about a Suburban, so "MPG" is sort of a joke anyway. Around town MPG is abysmal, because every time I stop and start again I've got to get nearly 3 tons of metal moving. So 11 - 13 MPG is the norm for that.

Then, on the highway, I should point out that the primary purpose of my truck is to be a tow vehicle for a trailer. Our old trailer (a T@B Clamshell) was about 2,000 lbs and our current trailer (An R-Pod 179) is probably 3500lbs loaded.

Compound that with the fact that we live in Denver and usually go "over the hill" (i.e. over an 11,000' pass) to get to wherever we're going and yeah, MPG is pretty much the same 11 - 13 MPG no matter what.

Now, very rarely I will take the Suburban on a long road trip without the trailer (I've actually only done that twice in the 3 years I've owned the 'Burb.) On long road trips without the trailer it gets surprisingly good MPG. I've gotten as high as 18.5 MPG and that was on a trip from Denver to Craig, CO, that required me to go over two high passes (Eisenhower tunnel at 11,000' and Rabbit Ears Pass at about 9600')
Actually that seems really good for pulling a trailor.

I always wounder, the tahoes prior the current version... say a 2014 tahoe advertised better MPG... go figure what is the difference in the drivetrain?

Anybody know? I think the newest version, 2018 has variable valve timing. But does say a 2014 have that too?

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Martinjmpr

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Actually that seems really good for pulling a trailor.

I always wounder, the tahoes prior the current version... say a 2014 tahoe advertised better MPG... go figure what is the difference in the drivetrain?

Anybody know? I think the newest version, 2018 has variable valve timing. But does say a 2014 have that too?

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Well, the Chevies across the line got a 6 speed auto in 2009. Presumably that means they can run a taller rear end for better MPG and still have enough power via lower gears in the transmission if needed. There is also the AFM (Active Fuel Management) which is supposed to reduce fuel consumption by allowing the engine to "turn off" 4 of the 8 cylinders. AFM started in 2007 with the GMT-900 series trucks. AFAIK the 5.3 engines still have AFM, not sure about the 6.0 and 6.2 engines that are in some of the GMC and Cadillac trucks though.
 

Matthew Jeschke

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Transmission snds awesome... never was a fan of turning off cylinders tho.

Is the engine the same architecture otherwise?
Well, the Chevies across the line got a 6 speed auto in 2009. Presumably that means they can run a taller rear end for better MPG and still have enough power via lower gears in the transmission if needed. There is also the AFM (Active Fuel Management) which is supposed to reduce fuel consumption by allowing the engine to "turn off" 4 of the 8 cylinders. AFM started in 2007 with the GMT-900 series trucks. AFAIK the 5.3 engines still have AFM, not sure about the 6.0 and 6.2 engines that are in some of the GMC and Cadillac trucks though.

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Martinjmpr

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Transmission snds awesome... never was a fan of turning off cylinders tho.

Is the engine the same architecture otherwise?


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I think so but not 100% sure. I mean, it's still an OHV engine but beyond that I don't know how different the AFM 5.3's are from the pre-AFM models. Someone else here undoubtedly knows.
 

Matthew Jeschke

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I cannot find any rebuild videos on YouTube to see what's inside the motor :/

I almost should make a separate thread. I'd love that 6 speed transmission on my truck but see several issues already with trying to swap mine to that :/ I think they started combining the Tranmission and motor controller in one package. Would have to reprogram and rewire everything. Curious if anybody has done that though. I looked believe the newer trany is a 6L80 or 6L90.
 
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Chowder

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Two years ago when I was shopping for tires I was all ready to spend the big $$ on the BFG AT KO2's but came across the Falken Wildpeak AT3W for substantially less (about $200.) Almost 2 years on I'm very happy with them. Might be worth checking out.

I did do a small lift (keys up front, Z71 springs in the rear but no spacers, and Bilstein 5100's all around.) Tire size is 285/75/16 on factory "cyclone" wheels.

View attachment 207637

Haven't checked the forum in a while didn't see these responces! The wallet keeps taking a hit, and since the Michelins I have on the yukon still have SOME life left new tires have taken a back seat.

I have to say the small lift and tires you have are the exact look I am going for. I do mostly highway driving and have a short family so I can't go sky high haha. Did you have the self leveling rear shocks on yours? I think I am going to get some Z71 springs when they are toast and go with the 5100s.
 

Matthew Jeschke

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Haven't checked the forum in a while didn't see these responces! The wallet keeps taking a hit, and since the Michelins I have on the yukon still have SOME life left new tires have taken a back seat.

I have to say the small lift and tires you have are the exact look I am going for. I do mostly highway driving and have a short family so I can't go sky high haha. Did you have the self leveling rear shocks on yours? I think I am going to get some Z71 springs when they are toast and go with the 5100s.
Not exactly sure what all is on truck as i bought it second hand. I believe rear is factory height. I think aftermarket mcpherson shocks tho. I put 5100s on front... long story, previous owner did leveling kit but his shocks where to short.

I dont believe i have any self leveling stuff because rear has a lean in it. I adjust lean out of front by setting torsion bars.

However i cannot figure out how to get lean out of back... is about 0.5 inch.

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swathdiver

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Gen III and Gen IV engines are very similar and many items are the same and or backwards/forwards compatible. It is not cost effective to put a Gen IV engine and transmission into a GMT800 but can be done.
 

Martinjmpr

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Haven't checked the forum in a while didn't see these responces! The wallet keeps taking a hit, and since the Michelins I have on the yukon still have SOME life left new tires have taken a back seat.

I have to say the small lift and tires you have are the exact look I am going for. I do mostly highway driving and have a short family so I can't go sky high haha. Did you have the self leveling rear shocks on yours? I think I am going to get some Z71 springs when they are toast and go with the 5100s.

Thanks, the lift has worked out well for me. It's basically everything I need and nothing I don't. I have air bags in the rear for towing but they don't seem to hold air (not sure why.) I ultimately ended up getting a Weight Distributing Hitch (WDH) setup for the trailer and that works better anyway so I don't even air up the bags anymore.

Not sure what you mean by 'self leveling rear shocks' - do you mean the Autoride air suspension? If so, then no, my Suburban did not have Autoride. I replaced the very worn factory shocks with Bilstein 5100's and it seems to have improved the ride quite a bit. 2 years on I'm happy with this setup.
 

ArcticYukon

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FWIW to the OP, while I like the Duratracs for winter driving, I wouldn't consider them if you're wanting a tire that's more resistant to damage from rocks. The sidewalls in the Duratracs are just NOT up to the task. I've seen many a shredded Duratrac on trail rides and, in fact, one fellow Jeeper I was behind on a very mild trail with NO rocks popped his sidewall on a blunt root that was sticking out.

Bottom line there, Duratracs would be a hard pass for me if I was going to be driving through rooty ruts or stoney paths.
 

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