Dub's audio wormhole

I'll try to keep this short, but hardly anything with me is simple, cut and dry so I know this will snowball.

I upgraded my standard Bose radio to an OEM touchscreen a couple years ago. It gave me everything I wanted except for Bluetooth streaming. I just kept my phone plugged into the OEM USB dash port that I added when I did the upgrade. But I still wanted Bluetooth streaming.

I found an aftermarket HU that I want, but I need to sell my OEM touchscreen first to fund it. I went out to swap my original standard HU back in when I saw the gear I bought five years ago for my old work van- a 2013 Express. It was a pile consisting of a decent single DIN Pioneer HU, dash kit, antenna adapter, and an Axxess GMOS-LAN-01 interface. According to Axxess, I need the GMOS-LAN-02 for my Tahoe since it has the Bose amplified system. But I decided to try it out since I'm considering bypassing the amp and running aftermarket amps.

I did a quick but "solid" twist-n-tape wiring job since it was just a test. All plugged in, I can't see why this interface can't be used. All speakers work with F/R/L/R fade/balance, chimes play through front left speaker, sub works, HU powers on and off with key and retains memory, etc. The only thing I lost was the rear radio controls and the factory electronic turn signal chime through the front left speaker. I don't need nor care about the RSC and the turn signal is replaced by the clicking of a relay, which I already knew about and mounted to the dash plastic behind the radio so I'd hear it but not be too loud.

After tweaking the Pioneer's EQ, it's definitely louder and sounds mostly better. I was also able to keep the OEM USB dash port functional by using a USB A-to-USB Mini cable from an old Garmin. So, now that the audio bug has bitten and I realize this isn't gonna be as expensive as I thought, I compiled an inventory list of what I have in stock:

Alpine Type R 6.5" components, NIB
Alpine Type S 6.5 components, like-new
Alpine Type R 10" subwoofer, NIB
Alpine MRP-M1000 sub amp
Alpine MRP-F300 4-channel
All necessary 2- and 4-channel RCAs
Plenty of speaker wire
Plenty of 4 gauge welding cable for power cables
Various fuse holders with fuses
Power distribution block
Various sizes of heat shrink tubing
Grommets for power wire
Crimp-on copper lugs for power cable (I solder these anyway)
Plenty of 3/4" MDF for sub enclosure (Downfire with side or top port, built to Alpine's specs)
Flat and angle stock for sub enclosure bolt-down bracketry
50' roll of 12" wide butyl no-name sound deadener
3-5 18"x24" (I think that's the size) sheets of Damplifier pro
Self-tapping metal screws

All I need to purchase is the HU I decided on ($180), steering wheel control interface ($45), DD dash kit ($8), a pack of spade terminals and 3M Super 33+ tape to close off/insulate unused wires

Plans are to put the Type R components in the front doors with the tweeters in the A-pillars to replace the Bose tweeters and the Type S components in the rear doors with the tweeters in the D-pillars where currently the Bose tweeters(?) reside. I'll wrap and secure the factory door speaker wires out of the way inside the doors. Hopefully, the factory Bose sub in the console will remain unaffected and still play for bass fill-in between the aftermarket sub and door speakers. Alpine amps will go under the second row buckets- sub amp under RH side and 4-channel under LH side. I've already eyeballed the fit and will trim the floor cover panels to let the tops of the amps show through. I may have to do some minor metal reworking on the sub amp side.


Here's some pics as a feeble effort to keep this interesting:

Went from this-




To this-




Although what initiated all of this was wanting the ability to stream audio from my phone via Bluetooth, I found that this HU has it's own built-in Pandora software so it automatically syncs with my phone when I plug it in and I can control (including "like" or "dislike" songs) through the HU. This is what is displayed on my phone when it's plugged in:




I think it's pretty darned cool.

Still with me?


Now for the questions/wormhole part! This is the time to install the sound deadener. I've read up on and agree with the tiling method versus applying multiple full layers of deadener. Though, the full coverage method has it's benefits, too. I'm thinking of allocating about 9 sq. ft. of the no-name butyl deadener to each door for full-coverage then using the Damplifier on top of that for the tiling. Or, should I do it the other way around and tile first, then cover?

Chris, do you know about the RPO code for increased sound insulation for Denalis and Escalades? I have heard of it, forget the RPO code and wonder what it entails as for as parts and part numbers and what it physically covers.

swathdiver said:

Chris, do you know about the RPO code for increased sound insulation for Denalis and Escalades? I have heard of it, forget the RPO code and wonder what it entails as for as parts and part numbers and what it physically covers.

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Now that you mention it, I recall reading about this somewhere long ago. It'd probably be wise to find out where they insulated the Denalis and Escalades because I'm sure those were calculated, engineered additions rather than "this looks like it'd be effective here" additions.

The tiling technique I was referencing is the one tested and pushed by SDS. Apparently, using this method requires only about 25% coverage versus trying to cover every inch of sheet metal.




This looks very similar to how auto manufacturers install their insulation, so I'm convinced the logic is sound (pun intended).

I'm thinking I should line the whole panel first to attenuate in the traditional means and then tile over that to cancel out any remaining resonance.

"Stuff" is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow.

I may not get to it until sometime next week, though. Jenn came home mentioning how she's almost lost control of her car a few times over the past month. I found the struts to be blown and leaking. She carries a lot of weight in the back for her work so that exacerbates the problem. New struts should be here tomorrow and installing those are my priority this weekend.

The RPO code for the Escalade sound deadening is BS1. Beyond that code, I can not find any parts associated to it.

mikeyss said:

The RPO code for the Escalade sound deadening is BS1. Beyond that code, I can not find any parts associated to it.

Click to expand...

Thank you.

I'm not gonna worry about it much. Just gonna use my best sense. A solid sheet of deadener will act more as a sound and temperature insulator rather than a vibration breaker. So I'll start with that then tile over it by focusing on the larger spaces further away from edges, where vibrations are more prone to happen and transduce frequencies. The factory obviously engineers the placement of their deadener tiles, but they also have to strike a balance between effectiveness and materials use (cost and weight), so some sacrifices are made. I can place mine with the focus solely on maximum results.

Anyone using an Axxess ASWC-1 (steering wheel controls adapter) with their aftermarket HU?

I'm only familiar with the Maestro or PAC which have a full kit including steering wheel controls. It seems to be very popular but wont you lose chimes, and such?

Meccanoble said:

I'm only familiar with the Maestro or PAC which have a full kit including steering wheel controls. It seems to be very popular but wont you lose chimes, and such?

Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply.

The one I have is available as an all-in-one kit, but also available separately. I bought the main interface back in 2013 for an Express work van that, of course, didn't have SWC. The plug for their SWC module was already made into the interface's harness so all I had to do was plug in the ASWC-1 box. Their instructions confirmed this with a "disregard the harness" (that came with the ASWC-1) note. I'll have to see if the Maestro or PAC stuff are single do-it-all boxes if I get to that point.

The ASWC-1 does a self-check upon power-up and communicates by flashing a red or green LED to tell what wire(s) are disconnected and then what brand of HU it detected itself to be connected to. It told me that wire number 7 (pink) was disconnected and that it was connected to a Pioneer or Jensen HU (6 flashes), which was correct. The pink wire goes into the GMOS-LAN-01, so either that wire is disconnected/broken somewhere, or is an unused function for my setup or it's the one incompatible circuit and the reason why Axxess says my Tahoe requires a GMOS-LAN-02. I have yet to find what function that pink wire is for.

I'll just have to double check my connections and contact Axxess. If it's a defective unit, Amazon's got my back. If I need a new interface, then I'll begin my brand/functionality research.