Strangely enough, the bulbs are actually still good, after replacing the circuit board. I took the bulb from the burnt side and tested it on the other side, bulb was still good. After circuit board replacement, bulb was still good. I replaced it anyways, because it's cheap; suspicion is...
Nope they don't stay on. When they are working, they operate completely normally for approximately 8-9 months at a time. Then one of them will stop working and it does the fast clicker thing as if the bulb is out. Upon inspection, it is not the bulb, is the circuit board itself that controls...
Hi I have a 2000 Tahoe Z71, it is the old body style 5.7L V8, and it is melting the boards in the rear turn signals. Not just the bulbs, but the actual circuit boards are scorched and destroyed. I've replaced 3 so far and it keeps happening. Now the wiring inbetween is suspect.
Anybody heard...
1 = US Built
G = General Motors
N = make is Chevy MPV
E = 6000-7000 gvwr hydraulic brake
K1 = full size truck chassis, 4x4 1500
3 = four door capability body type
T = LM7 5.3L V8
See decoder card
2000 LS 5.3 was either 2WD (rear) or AWD (AutoTrac).
AutoTrac is default rear wheel drive and if it senses slipping it engages front axle. You don't get to control it, it decides for you, and burns out clutch for you.
Precursor to Stabilitrak which was not introduced til 2003.
Push...
The dealer got back to me after 2 weeks and said it was "an issue with the stabilitrak". They wouldn't tell me anything more specific. The salesman then texted me that there was a problem with the title and he couldn't sell it until that was resolved. So I moved on - what a waste of time...
They still haven't told me what is wrong; must be a mystery to their service department. Lame salesmen to put this on the lot with obvious mechanical defect
Took a test drive on a local 2005 Tahoe LT with every option.
It repeatedly made a metallic grinding noise from 7-10mph. Everytime, on acceleration, even gentle smooth acceleration.
I could feel it in the pedals like some struggling or grinding noise...
I put transmission in 2 and it did it...
I concur. It seems fine for a few miles. Then I get it up to highway speed 60-70mph, still fine. Then I do some stop and go driving and at the stops at idle the rumbling starts, and gets worse, until the entire engine is shaking violently and check engine light is flashing. I've already had...
They said it was fixed; I drove it for <10 miles and problem immediately returned; Engine shaking violently, random multiple misfires, flashing check engine light. They did not charge me for reprogramming the ECM... but another week it's still there.
What people are after is the increased K-Factor (stall speed). Or to have an S10 and like to think it is a Corvette. But you would be crazy to put s10 v6 TC into a yukon V8, if you ask me.
Go aftermarket if you want a real upgrade (look up B&M Holeshot and you can easily find 2000 or 3000...
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