Engine setting for years, what's the best way to prepare for start up?

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SunlitComet

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in your case not really because you have to turn the engine by hand with it out you will immediately knock the alignment out. you will just have to use the basic realignment procedure to get started again and get it fined tuned if you don't get it dead on the first time.


  1. Bring cylinder number one piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke.

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  1. Install the distributor cap screws.
  2. Install the distributor cap.

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  1. Install a NEW distributor gasket onto the distributor.

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  1. Align the indent hole on the driven gear with the paint mark on the distributor housing.

  1. Ensure that the distributor rotor segment points to the cap hold area.

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  1. Align the slotted tang in the oil pump driveshaft with the distributor driveshaft. Rotate the oil pump driveshaft with a screwdriver if necessary.
  2. Align the flat (1) in the distributor housing toward the front of the engine.
  3. Install the distributor and distributor clamp.

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  1. Once the distributor is fully seated, align the distributor rotor segment with the number 8 pointer that is cast into the distributor base.
  2. If the distributor rotor segment does not come within a few degrees of the number 8 pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor and camshaft may be off a tooth or more. Repeat the procedure in order to achieve proper alignment.

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Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


  1. Install the distributor clamp bolt. Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) .

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  1. Install the distributor cap onto the distributor.
  2. Install the NEW distributor cap screws. Do not overtighten the NEW distributor cap screws. Tighten the distributor cap screws to 2.4 Nm (21 in. lbs.) .

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  1. Install the ignition coil wire harness.
 
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HDRock1

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Thanks
I should have mentioned I have 2 FSMs, the books, and on computer
Is it necessary to get a NEW distributor gasket onto the distributor ?
 
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Gzes

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I wpuld because from chillin so many years the gasket is probably goo and once it comes out it wont seal like its supposed too
 

Fishintahoe

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I'm not really an engine guy, but, I would never start an engine dry,and I figured the cylinders also need some kind of lubrication above the rings .
That being said, I know there are many people here, much more knowledgeable than I to help me out.

Does ur jeep have a V8??
 

Gzes

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Doesnt look good id probably go tp dealer imo they have oem and it will be better than aftermarket
 
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HDRock1

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Screwd up the post

---------- Post added at 06:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:51 PM ----------

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Doesnt look good id probably go tp dealer imo they have oem and it will be better than aftermarket


From my experience felpro are good products, somtimes better than OEM
 

SunlitComet

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the dizzy gasket is just a flat paper cardboard type of gasket. just get one. it is not constantly soaked in oil but it does keep the pcv system sealed.
 
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HDRock1

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have a good battery. remove your dizzy and and a valve cover. manually prime the engine with a priming tool and drill once you see oil coming off the rockers change the oil and filter with 5w-30 and a low micron rating filter. prime again and once flowing manually turn engine a few complete turns to get all the oil thru all the bearing clearances. once all wet again line up engine for dizzy install. button everything up and prime your fuel charge. you should be able to get this with two key on cycles. on the second one start it and let it do its thing till it gets hot. double check fluid levels. if all is good burn off the old gas as quickly as possible.

while you can put some oil in the cylinder it should be done with a spray nozzle to ensure coverage over everything. do not over-saturate them. it will burn off at start-up.


anything that goes wrong after that likely would have happened regardless and could have been worse. good luck.

---------- Post added at 07:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:31 PM ----------

also expect to need your dizzy fine tuned.

Is it necessary to put lube in the cylinders? If so is sea foam a good choice ?When I put the dizzy back in and get it close, will it start ?
Because I’m new to scan tools , will the Camshaft Retard Offset value be available, on a actron CP9575 auto scanner ?, which I picked up last night.
Also, this, Align white paint mark on the bottom stem of the distributor, is the paint mark allready on there ?
 
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SunlitComet

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use something like pb blaster or penetrating lube in a spray can with a straw. this will try to ensure you "spray" the entire inside of cylinder. stick the straw in the plug holes before doing anything else so it will help to ensure no damage to rings or wall. as a matter of fact if you have compressed air around spray the hell out of them really good and after all the work and before plugs are back in blow the excess out and clean up the mess. lastly give a light spray again and close everything. this is about as good as it can get to prevent as much start-up damage as possible or hydraulic lock as well.
 

JubjubW

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i guess it all depends really... we just picked up a chrysler big block inline flat head six that was sitting on a stand for 18 years (they last used it for some farm equipment) all we did was drain the oil and put fresh stuff in with new filter, swapped the electrical components that we knew worked over and attach it to the tractor and cranked it over... and it runs like a champ after blowing some crud out of the exhaust... if the engine didnt work we'd make up our losses in scrap metal

i guess its up to you... do you know the engine runs? the condition of every moving part? new oil and as long as the electrical components work, fire it up?

my 86 K5 needed a motor so i picked up a 70s 350 that had been sitting 2-3 years... new oil was put in, never primed, and fired her up and she got me around for quite a while... my dad took his perfectly good 68 350, replaced all the gaskets because she was leaking, got some brake cleaner next to a ring, and ended up dry starting her... now he needs an overhaul... its really all luck of the draw when starting an old motor
 
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HDRock1

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i guess it all depends really... we just picked up a chrysler big block inline flat head six that was sitting on a stand for 18 years (they last used it for some farm equipment) all we did was drain the oil and put fresh stuff in with new filter, swapped the electrical components that we knew worked over and attach it to the tractor and cranked it over... and it runs like a champ after blowing some crud out of the exhaust... if the engine didnt work we'd make up our losses in scrap metal

i guess its up to you... do you know the engine runs? the condition of every moving part? new oil and as long as the electrical components work, fire it up?

my 86 K5 needed a motor so i picked up a 70s 350 that had been sitting 2-3 years... new oil was put in, never primed, and fired her up and she got me around for quite a while... my dad took his perfectly good 68 350, replaced all the gaskets because she was leaking, got some brake cleaner next to a ring, and ended up dry starting her... now he needs an overhaul... its really all luck of the draw when starting an old motor

The engine ran perfect when it was parked,with 54k miles on it,then it was started and ran fine a couple of times over that year, about a year after that,it was tried and spun over good but no start,no diagnoses was done at that time, now it has sat about 5 years.
Anyway, I got oil and filter, but haven't cranked it yet or changed the oil.
I think I need to drop the gas tank and clean it first,
What do you all think ??
 

SunlitComet

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getting out old gas is good but i would not bother cleaning right now. wait until you have symptoms pointing to a fuel problem first.
 
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HDRock1

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Sucked all the gas out with a little transfer pump, wasn't much in there, but boy is it some nasty, stinkin stuff.
As you can see doesn't look much like gas.
 

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BOSS

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What about prepping the motor and giving it a few turns manually?

I seem to remember this was advised to me a while back on my 65 olds.... after spraying (soaking really) the cylinder walls with tranny fluid for a few days...supposedly this technique will also be your best shot to break loose any stuck rings.

ATF is due to the high level of rust inhibitors and detergents. The compressed air idea was awesome whoever suggested that one get's a star imo
 
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HDRock1

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Q: What about prepping the motor and giving it a few turns manually?

A: I turned the engine with the balancer bolt about 1 1/2 or 2 full turns ,a few days ago to be sure it wasn't froze up.

The compressed air idea was awesome ,I probably would never thought of that, that's what I will do to spread the lube all around the cylinder walls.
Today I soaked the plug threads with ATF acetone mix, to avoid trouble removing the plugs.
 

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