Engine setting for years, what's the best way to prepare for start up?

[HDRock1]

The engine in question here, is a 5.7,54k miles, has not been started in about five years. It was running fine before that.
I have read that some people say you should remove the plugs and put some Marvel mystery oil, or something like that in the cylinders, If so how much.
I am looking for any, and all, suggestions to prepare the, truck and engine for start up.
I appreciate your input, thanks.

 

[99 2dr]

I would remove the coil wire, remove spark plugs, use the new seafoam spray with the straw to coat cylinders, drain oil/ filter refill with cheap oil. With coil wire still removed crank engine over until adequate oil pressure is achieved. Check water level. Check for fuel delivery. let sit while seafoam evaporates. Install spark plugs and crank over engine until oil pressure is achieved. Connect coil wire and start engine. Do not rev up engine more than necessary. After engine arrives at operating temperature, turn off, drain oil and change filter.

 

[HDRock1]

I would remove the coil wire, remove spark plugs, use the new seafoam spray with the straw to coat cylinders, drain oil/ filter refill with cheap oil. With coil wire still removed crank engine over until adequate oil pressure is achieved. Check water level. Check for fuel delivery. let sit while seafoam evaporates. Install spark plugs and crank over engine until oil pressure is achieved. Connect coil wire and start engine. Do not rev up engine more than necessary. After engine arrives at operating temperature, turn off, drain oil and change filter.

Thanks
Cranking the engine with the plugs out sounds like a good idea, and I didn't think of that.
I actually have a partial can of the, seafoam spray with the straw.
Once I get a battery hooked up I'll stick on the fuel press gauge ,turn on the key and see what I get, don't know what the specs. are just yet.

 

[99 2dr]

Removing the spark plugs and cranking it over allows the cylinders to expel any moisture that is in them. I would imagine that there would be some because you live in Flint Michigan?

 

[gpracer1]

I wouldn't do the seafoam until after you have started the engine and you verify that it is operating normally.
This is because after you do the seafoam it will smoke and cough and run rough till it clears out, and it's better to know its running fine before you do it.

 

[99 2dr]

I did not say start the engine with seafoam in it. I said use the seafoam to clean out the cylinders and let it evaporate after cranking it over. An engine that has sat for a long time in the great lakes area is very well liable to have moisture in it.

 

[HDRock1]

I did not say start the engine with seafoam in it. I said use the seafoam to clean out the cylinders and let it evaporate after cranking it over. An engine that has sat for a long time in the great lakes area is very well liable to have moisture in it.

Oh ya it's bound to have moisture in it.
Am I correct that ,seafoam has lubrication properties along with being a solvent ?

 

[Gzes]

Remember if strated dry the motor will wear the bearings like a mofo..... My dumbass mechanic dry started my 2dr and i needed an overhaul.... Mine sat for roughly 8 years

 

[99 2dr]

Yes seafoam has both properties. We use it to store our race engines.

You never want to start an engine dry, that it why you disconnect the coil wire so it can crank to circulate oil.

 

[HDRock1]

I'm not really an engine guy, but, I would never start an engine dry,and I figured the cylinders also need some kind of lubrication above the rings .
That being said, I know there are many people here, much more knowledgeable than I to help me out.

 

[SunlitComet]

have a good battery. remove your dizzy and and a valve cover. manually prime the engine with a priming tool and drill once you see oil coming off the rockers change the oil and filter with 5w-30 and a low micron rating filter. prime again and once flowing manually turn engine a few complete turns to get all the oil thru all the bearing clearances. once all wet again line up engine for dizzy install. button everything up and prime your fuel charge. you should be able to get this with two key on cycles. on the second one start it and let it do its thing till it gets hot. double check fluid levels. if all is good burn off the old gas as quickly as possible.

while you can put some oil in the cylinder it should be done with a spray nozzle to ensure coverage over everything. do not over-saturate them. it will burn off at start-up.


anything that goes wrong after that likely would have happened regardless and could have been worse. good luck.

---------- Post added at 07:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:31 PM ----------

also expect to need your dizzy fine tuned.

 

[HDRock1]

have a good battery. remove your dizzy and and a valve cover. manually prime the engine with a priming tool and drill once you see oil coming off the rockers change the oil and filter with 5w-30 and a low micron rating filter. prime again and once flowing manually turn engine a few complete turns to get all the oil thru all the bearing clearances. once all wet again line up engine for dizzy install. button everything up and prime your fuel charge. you should be able to get this with two key on cycles. on the second one start it and let it do its thing till it gets hot. double check fluid levels. if all is good burn off the old gas as quickly as possible.

while you can put some oil in the cylinder it should be done with a spray nozzle to ensure coverage over everything. do not over-saturate them. it will burn off at start-up.


anything that goes wrong after that likely would have happened regardless and could have been worse. good luck.

---------- Post added at 07:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:31 PM ----------

also expect to need your dizzy fine tuned.

OK, whats a/the dizzy ?
Don't know what a priming tool is ether.
Are U saying the first time I prime it, I do it with the old existing oil in it ??
Edit: dizzy/ distributor. also found a priming tool

 

[SunlitComet]

dizzy as in distributor, priming tool attaches to a drill and goes on oil pump shaft visible with dizzy removed. you can use new oil the first time but was concerned that you should get the old stuff circulated and mixed evenly again to ensure a good drain while catching as many contaminates as possible before the first drain.
you can buy a oil priming tool locally or online. be absolute sure it fits over the pump shaft completely and you can feel the pump turning with your hand before using a drill on it.

 

[HDRock1]

Sorry for the dumb question
Is this going to do the job for my hoe ? / http://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-3446-Pump-Primer/dp/B000RH4I04/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1

 

[SunlitComet]

should be it but make it fits completely over oil pump shaft before using with a drill.

---------- Post added at 08:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:51 PM ----------

i think autozone will loan you one but it did not work on my vortec. the inner blade needed to be thinned out. maybe you can mod theirs.

 

[HDRock1]

should be it but make it fits completely over oil pump shaft before using with a drill.

---------- Post added at 08:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:51 PM ----------

i think autozone will loan you one but it did not work on my vortec. the inner blade needed to be thinned out. maybe you can mod theirs.

Thanks
I already found the autozone loan a tool, but U say it wont work ?
I would rather buy the KD tool, than chew something up in the engine
OEM/GM V6-V8 Oil Pump Primer
Part Number: 27060
Alternate Part Number: AZ996

Edit: OK I see looking at the FSM the oil pump shaft has a slot

 

[SunlitComet]

you justt may need to mod the tool a bit for the vortec. no matter where you get it from. buy it locally and have the store show you a pump for your vehicle. you will see what you need to do.

---------- Post added at 09:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:11 PM ----------

or make one out of an old vortec dizzy.

 

[HDRock1]

you can use new oil the first time but was concerned that you should get the old stuff circulated and mixed evenly again to ensure a good drain while catching as many contaminates as possible before the first drain.
QUOTE]

Now that I understand what I will be doing , it makes sense to get the old stuff circulated and drain it.

 

[gpracer1]

Yes seafoam has both properties. We use it to store our race engines.

You never want to start an engine dry, that it why you disconnect the coil wire so it can crank to circulate oil.

And the reason to take out the spark plugs is so there is no compression putting pressure on the rod bearings while cranking and getting her oiled up.

The reason I mentioned not putting seafoam till later is because it will liquefy the carbon deposits, and it works better on a hot engine.

 

[HDRock1]

Any one got any tricks, tips on getting the dizzy out and back in correctly , with out a lot of trial and error ?