Long Tube Dual Exhaust Install

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96HoeBo

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Decided to install some long tube ****** headers and dual exhaust to my 96 Tahoe and i am just showing what i did and what it cost. The exaust dumps before the rear axle so these most likely aren't street/emissions legal so don't do this if you want to remain on the street.

Supplies:
Ratchet
Wrench
Drill
Welder
Grinder
Tubing bender (local muffler shop)
$50 5' Straight Stainless 2.5" Exhaust from ebay
$70 2.5" Mufflers off of ebay
$235 ****** 2462HKR Competition Ceramic Header
$40 Collecters http://www.jegs.com/i/******+Headers/520/11026/10002/-1
$7 18mmx1.5 bungs for o2 sensors
$16 EGR Plug for intake manifoldhttp://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12556596/
$64 U-bend 2.5" exhaust
$40 extenders to extend the 02 sensorshttp://www.jegs.com/i/Caspers+Electronics/182/109011/10002/-1
$20 Exhaust clamps and exhaust mounts
$20 Tube bending at local muffler shop
GRAND TOTAL: $562/w normal exhaust extended over rear axle probably $700

1) Unplug your spark plug wires and unbolt the brackets that hold them on the side of the head (headers get in the way of bracket and need to be modded). Remove air intake. Unplug the coolant sensor in the drivers side head. Unbolt the oil dipstick tube and remove it.

2) Remove EGR... This would not move on the header so I thought I could remove the intake manifold connection and pull it down and out with the header but nope. I decided to cut the EGR in half and then I could pull it out with the header (my new headers didnt come with an egr port). Put the EGR block off in the intake manifold hole.
IMG_0981.jpg


3) Unbolt your exhaust to header flange and unplug the o2 sensors. Unbolt the rear exhaust and unplug the rear o2 sensors. Cut your old exhaust to get it out unless you know a different way I could figure out.
IMG_0974.jpg


4) Unbolt your stock headers.

5) Chase the threads in your head with a tap and make sure the bolt holes are clean.

6) Put new headers in and bolt them down working from side to side starting in the middle... Torque all the bolts snug and go to around 25 ft lbs after that. It can get hard to fit a torque wrench in there so go with allen bolts or star drive and that makes it a little easier. Otherwise torque it down with a wrench as best as you can.

7) Cut the 5' straight pipe in half and weld the reducer to each one. Connect these to your header collector and mark the location of where you want the o2 sensors in the reducers (Should be close to the collector and towards the top). Pull them out and drill a hole in the location that you marked. Weld in your bungs.
IMG_0992.jpg


8) This is one of the hang ups; the straight pipe on the drivers side runs into the transfer case so it has to be taken to a muffler shop and they will bend it for cheap usually.
IMG_1004.jpg


9) Clamp the mufflers down. Cut the one bend tube at the middle of the bend and it will go out right in front of the rear tire; OR get the components to finish the tubes over the rear axle. I hung the mufflers with some hangers from oreillys on bolts coming off the tahoe (seat bolts?)...

I didn't get a tune and the car runs strong. Problems i had were with the heat (i put on some header wrap and its good now) and i had a cracked spark plug that was a PITA to track down. I also should say I definitely shouldn't have skimped on the mufflers cause the ones i have dont resonate that well (its probably also the lack of pipe over the rear)
 

TigerEyz3

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Not that it's often enforced, but it's actually illegal to have the exhaust exit before it crosses the axle and reaches the factory location or further back. Basically, exhaust is supposed to exit past the passenger compartment on all vehicles.
 

AtomicHoe094

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coulda saved a few bucks on just getting collector rings not the whole 40dolla reducer :)

also what do you mean problem with heat? ceramic coated headers?? thats weird
 
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96HoeBo

96HoeBo

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i will eventually get some tubes for over the axle if i get stopped or get sick of the noise :) but so far it has been ok. i didnt search much on the flange, i paid too much on that for sure...

maybe the headers were putting a lot of heat off from being broken in but it felt like the car was heating up from them. if the wrap will make the ceramic coating degrade i will prob take it off though...
 
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TigerEyz3

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Header wrap is a big no-no... they cause the headers to degrade much faster. The ceramic coating keeps the heat INSIDE the tube (promoting better exhaust velocity) while keeping the underhood temps lower than non-coated headers.
 

retorq

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Also you will notice the heat ALOT more if you are just sitting there in your driveway and not moving. When you are trucking down the road there is airflow over them.
 
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96HoeBo

96HoeBo

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ive heard about them degrading just didn't know it would be that fast, ill take that 40 dollar ******** off of them then:shocked:. i will probably just get heat shield if it is much of a problem
 

AtomicHoe094

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how do you know it was getting too hot?

My brothers headers on his freshly rebuilt motor were CHERRRY read when he was breaking it in.. looked nutsss!
 

ezdaar

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Header wrap is just fine if the headers are coated with high temp paint first.
Then sealing the wrap with the high temp silicone based paint.

I have had wrap on all my vehical, atv and motorcycle headers for years with NO rusting or anything.

shure you throw some wrap on uncoated mild steel headers and then get them wet, yea it will cause rust. Just fire up that engine and let it fully warm up, the wrap drys and your all good.

I LOL when I read the bad rap ppl post about header wrap. especially considering most ppl who post it have never used wrap and are just parroting what they read from anoter guy who has never used it.
 

foreverfalcon40

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I would have covered those bitches in hi-temp paint!

Your truck 4wd...hard to tell. I have the same exact headers...seems like mine would rub the front driveshaft?

I have 2.5" QTP Exhaust Cut outs for you...$250 shipped! :) Barely used!

You need to get spark plug boots from jegs to stop the cracking as well as the guides over the valve covers so your spark plugs dont hit.

IMAG0026.jpg
 
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96HoeBo

96HoeBo

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i felt heat inside the car when i first put the headers on... ya thats crazy that they glowed atomic, its amazing metal doesnt just fall apart when it gets red like that :)...

I took the wrap of last night hah oops... it sounds like there is some debate on the issue but if there is any chance of it reducing the life of my coating ill just go for heat shield and sound deadener inside the car. i got some boots for the wires, what is the over the valve cover wire you guys use??

---------- Post added at 12:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:11 PM ----------

ty forever thats a good deal but im not messing with my exhaust anymore :hands:...

---------- Post added at 12:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:13 PM ----------

at least for a couple weeks...
 

the big blue bus

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pics of how the exhause is routed under the truck? im going to redo mine soon. i want longs. how do those headers fit?
 

foreverfalcon40

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Your truck 4wd?

I'll get the link...for the valve cover kit, give me some time.
 

foreverfalcon40

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Cool, but I was referring to the author of the thread. Sorry for the confusion.

I have headmen long tubes for a 2wd I purchased. I went to install them last year. Didn't seem like they would fit, just tried lining them up on the lift with everything installed.
 
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96HoeBo

96HoeBo

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ya its a 4wd, i had to get the exhaust tube bent about 2" toward the driver side of the car to get it around the transfer case... other than that though there were no fitment issues, but it could be due to the body lift. other people have a hard time fitting long tubes?

ill get pics of it up tonight, couldnt get a good view with the cell so ill have to use my camera
 

the big blue bus

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thanks man. ive got body lift too so maybe they wull be easier to install. i might get the duals running down the pasenger side since i got the fuel tank on the drivers side
 

steamroller

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Nice work! It's weird you had to put that bend in there before the transfer case, same headers and when they ran mine it was straight until it makes the 1st turn to go under the tailhousing. :think:

The pic makes it look tighter than it actually is, I've got a 3" or more by the transfer case

exhaust-1.gif
 

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