What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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alpha_omega

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Those of you with the tall Escalade looking rear brake/tail lights, what brand are you using and has it required and modification, or was it plug and play?
 

alpha_omega

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I have polybushings in my C10 and I hate them. The bodymount bushings make you feel every damn vibration, The ride is rougher. I refuse to use anything other than rubber for bushings after that.

My 79 T/A had poly leafspring bushings and no matter the ungodly amount of grease you put on those bastards they will squeak.
So the question remains, on your 2007-2014 are you running the solid H2 motor mounts or the liquid filled? Because there’s a noticeable difference in the two when used on these vehicles.
 

Charlie207

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So the question remains, on your 2007-2014 are you running the solid H2 motor mounts or the liquid filled? Because there’s a noticeable difference in the two when used on these vehicles.


Not who your asking, but I run a solid mount on the driver's side, and a fluid-filled mount on the passenger side. The fluid-filled mounts on the driver's side stretch and tear, so it's really the only side that "needs" the upgrade. The passenger side just gets compressed, and seems to last a long time.
 

91RS

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The passenger side rarely breaks like the driver side, but there are people who love to floor it in reverse. Usually the passenger mount collapses and transmits engine vibration to the frame and leads to a rough feeling idle when stopped in gear.
 

mikez71

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Ok, I feel a bit silly asking this questions, but I will happily accept being humbled by the answers.

P/N: 15893710 & 15893711
View attachment 472716

Where do they mount? It’s some sort of splash shield, but I don’t recall where they go or what hardware is
Those go up front bottom of wheel wells and along the frame rails. Will look for hardware pics
 

Doubeleive

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So the question remains, on your 2007-2014 are you running the solid H2 motor mounts or the liquid filled? Because there’s a noticeable difference in the two when used on these vehicles.
I have these akkon's bought them 7 years ago (holding up well) but I only paid $334 when I bought them, wiring is plug-n-play, fitment to make it "just right" I used a couple washers for left/right tilt alignment
they are led, the non-led ones are fairly dim during daylight
 

Doubeleive

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annual power steering flush, I can always tell when it has been a year because the pump starts talking to me a little bit, takes about 3qt's if you have not maintained it, otherwise 1 gallon if it is the first time.
POW.jpg
 

alpha_omega

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Not who you’re asking, but I run a solid mount on the driver's side, and a fluid-filled mount on the passenger side. The fluid-filled mounts on the driver's side stretch and tear, so it's really the only side that "needs" the upgrade. The passenger side just gets compressed, and seems to last a long time.
That’s the first I’ve heard of running one and one. Good idea for anyone who has had issues with changing more than one on the driver’s side.
annual power steering flush, I can always tell when it has been a year because the pump starts talking to me a little bit, takes about 3qt's if you have not maintained it, otherwise 1 gallon if it is the first time.
Are you running an inline filter?
 

Doubeleive

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That’s the first I’ve heard of running one and one. Good idea for anyone who has had issues with changing more than one on the driver’s side.

Are you running an inline filter?
no, after about a year I can hear it, but I listen to my vehicles more than most people any little different noise and my radar tunes into it
 

SpareParts

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Those of you with the tall Escalade looking rear brake/tail lights, what brand are you using and has it required and modification, or was it plug and play?
Plug and play. Fit great.

 

Charlie207

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Replaced the front brake pads on the plow truck (it's a GMT900...). They were down to the steel, and the driver's side was sticking.

I was hoping that getting the pistons back to the compressed position with the new pads would free up the sticky caliper, but no such luck.

Im thinking the hose might be swollen, and ordered the cheapest pair from Rock Auto. $29.55 to my door.

It's a plow truck with Ag. plates on it, so I'm not trying to do cross-country trips with it, but it runs and shifts good, so I'd like to be able to use it like a truck without smelling burning brake pads.

The goal is to run it for a few years so the garage has time to be built, and then the body will be rotted off it, and I'll rip the drivetrain out for an LS- swap project.
 

j91z28d1

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How do the new brakes compare to old?
I know it's never a fair comparison vs worn old brakes but...



There was a couple online reviews where one of the APOC poly bushings pretty much disintegrated. (They do have a lifetime warranty on the bushings)
Possible it was installer error?

Either way, rubber will be less maintenance, smoother ride and last longer I suppose..
I figure I might as well try and weld a couple bushing holder rings to a steel tube if I'm serious..
(New trailing arms are pretty cheap, maybe I can salvage the bushings by cutting or pressing them out..)


much cheaper to just box your stock arms. cut up some plate and weld them in.

what they used to do back in the days before cheap aftermarket arms


weird the poly goes bad so ******. I used to run poly in all my cars, not one of them ever fell apart. they lasted for years and years of street racing and some strip. gotta be a bad design or something. poly also comes in different harnesses. maybe they went to soft? now days I see that hard plastic delrin or whatever it's called used a lot. still less than harsh that solid metal, but doesnt flex at all.
 

j91z28d1

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Not who your asking, but I run a solid mount on the driver's side, and a fluid-filled mount on the passenger side. The fluid-filled mounts on the driver's side stretch and tear, so it's really the only side that "needs" the upgrade. The passenger side just gets compressed, and seems to last a long time.


I have this, more out of laziness than anything. drivers was broke, ordered the hummer. but for the price only one for now and do the other later. a year later I still haven't ordered the other. at this point I might just leave the passenger side.

I notice no vibration from it as it is and I like that. I'm about to go back to oem mounts on the c6. I put what is said to be the softest mounts in it and I hate it. I'll just have to replace the stock ones often on it. the mounts rattle everything inside the car. and they are a incased rubber type thing.
 

Sir_Hiro

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I have this, more out of laziness than anything. drivers was broke, ordered the hummer. but for the price only one for now and do the other later. a year later I still haven't ordered the other. at this point I might just leave the passenger side.

I notice no vibration from it as it is and I like that. I'm about to go back to oem mounts on the c6. I put what is said to be the softest mounts in it and I hate it. I'll just have to replace the stock ones often on it. the mounts rattle everything inside the car. and they are a incased rubber type thing.
Not who your asking, but I run a solid mount on the driver's side, and a fluid-filled mount on the passenger side. The fluid-filled mounts on the driver's side stretch and tear, so it's really the only side that "needs" the upgrade. The passenger side just gets compressed, and seems to last a long time.

I must be dumb but is the clunk only on acceleration? I have a subtle clunk but nothing crazy
 

Charlie207

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I must be dumb but is the clunk only on acceleration? I have a subtle clunk but nothing crazy

It'll show up on acceleration if the driver's mount has failed, typically. You can test it easily, with the hood up... Pretend your doing a brake-stand, and watch/listen to the engine rotate.
 

mikez71

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I must be dumb but is the clunk only on acceleration? I have a subtle clunk but nothing crazy
When I had a clunk, I would mostly feel it on accel, and shifts were not as smooth. Like a little hiccup or stutter.
A little bit on decel when it downshifted also. (With only driver side mount torn)
 
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Sir_Hiro

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When I had a clunk, I would mostly feel it on accel, and shifts were not as smooth. Like a little hiccup or stutter.
A little bit on decel when it downshifted also.
Mine is only from a stand still acceleration at least from what I hear. Nothing weird on decel or shifting
 

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