Axle

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that331racer

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I have a 2011 chevy tahoe z71 and I am looking to do a whole drive train swap. This includes an lt4 paired with a 10l90e. The transfer case is being swapped to a mp3024. My only concern is the rear axle.
 
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that331racer

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The upgrade to the GM 10 bolt is called the 14 bolt.

Luckily for you, the 14 bolt 6 lug was offered in your generation as an option (came standard with the 6.2 IIRC, maybe others as well?), so it would be a direct swap.
If I find an 8 lug version, can I swap out the axle shafts for 6 lug ones?
 

strutaeng

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If I find an 8 lug version, can I swap out the axle shafts for 6 lug ones?
No.

The 8 lug 14 bolt axles are actually a bit different (different bearings vs the 6 lug axles), and came in semi float and full float. GM changed the 8 lug pattern in 2011, so that complicated things even further.

Unless you want to run adapters or run 8 lug rims out back.

On the performancetruck.net forum there's a cool 14 bolt swap guide page. I believe you can make yourself a 14 bolt with some full sized Express Van 6 lug axles, but I've never really delved into the details. Besides, why bother when you can get yourself an AXN axle, now that those are standard on pretty much standard on all trucks and with larger brakes?

Also look into the 2KXX SUV axles (same or similar to the AXN). I'm not sure if those are also a direct swap. I've seen a thread here.
 
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that331racer

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No.

The 8 lug 14 bolt axles are actually a bit different (different bearings vs the 6 lug axles), and came in semi float and full float. GM changed the 8 lug pattern in 2011, so that complicated things even further.

Unless you want to run adapters or run 8 lug rims out back.

On the performancetruck.net forum there's a cool 14 bolt swap guide page. I believe you can make yourself a 14 bolt with some full sized Express Van 6 lug axles, but I've never really delved into the details. Besides, why bother when you can get yourself an AXN axle, now that those are standard on pretty much standard on all trucks and with larger brakes?

Also look into the 2KXX SUV axles (same or similar to the AXN). I'm not sure if those are also a direct swap. I've seen a thread here.
Thank you! I was also wondering if I should swap the front end out for a gm 9.25? If there are any other swap options, I'm open for suggestions.
 

strutaeng

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Thank you! I was also wondering if I should swap the front end out for a gm 9.25? If there are any other swap options, I'm open for suggestions.
9.25 ifs swap? I believe that's possible, but requires a good amount of fabrication. At that point, might as well get yourself a 2500 SUV.

What are you using the truck for? Racing or off-roading?

If racing, probably fine with axle upgrades and keeping the 10 bolt or optional 14 bolt AXN.

Off-roading, get the beefiest drivetrain offered you can get yourself into your truck. Or solid axle front swap. Off-roading is tough on drivetrain, depending on terrain and use. Seems like the guys doing extreme use at some point break anything and everything, no matter how beefy or what they run. Dana 60 front with a GM 14 bolt full float rear is a pretty standard setup for any rig doing moderate+ off road trails.
 
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that331racer

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9.25 ifs swap? I believe that's possible, but requires a good amount of fabrication. At that point, might as well get yourself a 2500 SUV.

What are you using the truck for? Racing or off-roading?

If racing, probably fine with axle upgrades and keeping the 10 bolt or optional 14 bolt AXN.

Off-roading, get the beefiest drivetrain offered you can get yourself into your truck. Or solid axle front swap. Off-roading is tough on drivetrain, depending on terrain and use. Seems like the guys doing extreme use at some point break anything and everything, no matter how beefy or what they run. Dana 60 front with a GM 14 bolt full float rear is a pretty standard setup for any rig doing moderate+ off road trails.
I plan on using it as a daily with a little bit of heavy towing here and there. I mostly wanted to see if a 9.25 would help with 4wd launches and not shredding the front end. But looking into the capabilities of the 8.25, I realize that I don't need the 9.25.
 

Mudsport96

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Look up Stapleton42 on YouTube. He has a Yukon with the 10 bolt and an aftermarket posi that was making like 450 at the wheels.... before he realized it was an AWD case and was burning up the clutches. He swapped in a true 4x4 case and was probably closer to 550. He also has like a 10 second Escalade, so the videos of that should tell you everything you need to have.
 

67RS427

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I plan on using it as a daily with a little bit of heavy towing here and there. I mostly wanted to see if a 9.25 would help with 4wd launches and not shredding the front end. But looking into the capabilities of the 8.25, I realize that I don't need the 9.25.
Sorry I'm late to the party... Moving up to a 9.25 will not do you any good for improving launches. You're still stuck with an open diff and no limited slip or posi units available for either the 8.25 nor the 9.25. I am still running the stock front diff on my 1k HP Denali. The transfer case in mine is a BW4485 which uses planetary gears and not the viscous coupler that is prone to breaking. When comparing a 4x4 case to a planetary BW4485, they are the same, the AWD just can't be switched off. No other difference in traction due to the diff still being open.

As for not shredding the front tires, good luck if you're making over 600hp lol... I still rip off the fronts and I'm running 305 Drag Radials but making a ton of torque off idle. You need a stiff double adjustable shock front and rear. The rear needs stiff compression and the front needs stiff rebound to avoid transferring too much weight and unloading that front left tire. Helper bags in the rear help a lot and you can also chain or strap down the front arms to limit the travel.
 
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that331racer

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Sorry I'm late to the party... Moving up to a 9.25 will not do you any good for improving launches. You're still stuck with an open diff and no limited slip or posi units available for either the 8.25 nor the 9.25. I am still running the stock front diff on my 1k HP Denali. The transfer case in mine is a BW4485 which uses planetary gears and not the viscous coupler that is prone to breaking. When comparing a 4x4 case to a planetary BW4485, they are the same, the AWD just can't be switched off. No other difference in traction due to the diff still being open.

As for not shredding the front tires, good luck if you're making over 600hp lol... I still rip off the fronts and I'm running 305 Drag Radials but making a ton of torque off idle. You need a stiff double adjustable shock front and rear. The rear needs stiff compression and the front needs stiff rebound to avoid transferring too much weight and unloading that front left tire. Helper bags in the rear help a lot and you can also chain or strap down the front arms to limit the travel.
Thanks for the suspension info, that was the thing that had me confused for setting it up. How would it do towing a 7500 lb trailer though?
 

67RS427

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Thanks for the suspension info, that was the thing that had me confused for setting it up. How would it do towing a 7500 lb trailer though?
Are you referring to the stock 10 bolt? I'm still running stock axles and 10 bolt housing... Install some good bearings, a TrueTrac and send it. Upgraded driveshaft is also a must IMO if you're high HP. I upgraded to a 1350 yoke as well. You've got 40% of the power going to the front if you're AWD. You aren't gonna hurt anything towing 7,500lbs.
 
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that331racer

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Are you referring to the stock 10 bolt? I'm still running stock axles and 10 bolt housing... Install some good bearings, a TrueTrac and send it. Upgraded driveshaft is also a must IMO if you're high HP. I upgraded to a 1350 yoke as well. You've got 40% of the power going to the front if you're AWD. You aren't gonna hurt anything towing 7,500lbs.
I was referring to the 14 bolt when I swap it in. It already is towing the 7500lb trailer in question and has been for the past 2 years.
 

67RS427

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I was referring to the 14 bolt when I swap it in. It already is towing the 7500lb trailer in question and has been for the past 2 years.
The stock differential is the weak link for sure. You're not talking about a lot of weight though, I wouldn't worry about it at all. The towing capacity on these trucks is around 8,000 lbs stock. Add a little more horsepower and some better brake pads and rotors and you can tow 10k pounds all day. I don't think your application really needs a 14 bolt conversion, just my 2 cents.
 

Geotrash

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I've been towing a 7500 lb camper for the last 3+ years and 25K+ towing miles now with no problems on the stock 8.25 in our AWD, cammed 2012 XL Denali. That said, I believe @intheburbs has experienced a couple of 8.25 diff failures on one of his 4WD rigs towing. So in this case, I agree with the recommendation to get a TrueTrac and some good bearings in there if you're going to bump the power up.
 

intheburbs

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I broke my 2001 rear axle multiple times towing 7500-8000 lbs on cross-country trips. That was the primary reason I bought the 2008 2500 - it has the 14-bolt 10.5" freefloater I call the Godzilla axle.
 

Marky Dissod

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I broke my 2001 rear axle multiple times towing 7500-8000lb on cross-country trips.
That was the primary reason I bought the 2008 2500 with the 14-bolt 10.5" freefloater
What was the gear ratio in the 10-bolt 8.6" axle when it broke?
 

strutaeng

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I broke my 2001 rear axle multiple times towing 7500-8000 lbs on cross-country trips. That was the primary reason I bought the 2008 2500 - it has the 14-bolt 10.5" freefloater I call the Godzilla axle.
The mighty 14 bolt FTW...:)
 

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