the_tool_man
Full Access Member
Thanks for the information. That gives me something to test.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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gooffeyguy
Tom
Is there a left/right DRL fuse in the fuse box under the hood?
Maybe position 31 or 33
Maybe position 31 or 33
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Is this where GM got the idea for the Escalade EXT/Avalanche??? That is a REALLY long bed version!
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Ordered some F/R endlinks.
eBay. I dont have a link, just search.
the_tool_man
Full Access Member
It gets better. I manually turned on the headlights in the dark. Passenger side low beam is on normally. Driver side low beam and both highs are very dimly on. High beam is switched off. There's definitely a wiring issue somewhere!
swap bulbs left & right and rule the bulb in or out.
the_tool_man
Full Access Member
They are aftermarket units. They plug into the factory bulb sockets and are internally wired from there. The DRL and low beam circuits must be joined because the low beams are single-filament bulbs. This weekend I'll pull everything apart and diagnose it. I'm hoping there's a short in one of the housings that's causing the issue. That'll be easier to fix. Maybe this'll be an opportunity to mod them. I've never liked that the LED bars only come on with the low beams and not the DRLs.
ahh makes sense. I have different aftermarket ones.. they kinda do the same thing but are led so they don't pull much power and no drl. it uses a external wire to a fuse tap for the led bar for the drl. it just dims when the head lights come on. but it's on a fuse that has power anytime the key is on. not sure if you could wire it like that some how.
if you happen to still have your stock housings laying around to troubleshoot with that could be helpful. I tossed mine back the box and thought I'd polish them up and sell them because they didn't look you bad but never got around to it haha.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
My aluminum radiators drain port was fantastic.
Still no leaks *knock on wood*.
But after that single heater core line blew earlier this month, i have been running nearly pure distilled water.
I finally thought about it and decided i better add dex sooner than later and drained the radiator.
Figuring i have abkut 3.5 gallons total (+/-), i figure i need a little over 1.5 gallons of dex.
Drained it out, and i had plenty of capacity drained to get the proper mix.
Error on the side of caution, and i went for a little bit past 50/50.
Having that drain on the extra capacity radiator is much easier than pulling the lower radiator hose.
Now I'm looking at making mostly unnecessary guard for the hood latch.
Last year i proved i could pop the hood externally using a long screw driver, and with the crazy neighbor issue that recently got worse since i decided to act on a hunch and called one of them out, i decided it's time to lock that mofo down.
I also caught the same creep twice now hanging around the front of the tahoe and the jeep when i went into the store for a quick second... lol
(Different stores!)
*tin foil hat on*
Wife has also ordered me to put one of the security camera's inside of the garage and for me to wear a gun when I'm working in there with the garage door open... lol
Anyways, i have a mesh installed into the grill that blocks view plus anything thick enough to pop that latch from entering without damaging the mesh.
(The mesh was installed originally to keep bugs and trash from clogging things up)
Now I'm looking at other gaps, and i noticed a pretty good one between the hood and the grill.
So messing around with some aluminum stock i have on hand i created something that protects the latch, blocks the gap, and it shouldn't block any normal function of that hood latch.
I'll snap a picture later, currently the aluminum etching primer is drying, and then I'll paint it a nice flat black.
Still no leaks *knock on wood*.
But after that single heater core line blew earlier this month, i have been running nearly pure distilled water.
I finally thought about it and decided i better add dex sooner than later and drained the radiator.
Figuring i have abkut 3.5 gallons total (+/-), i figure i need a little over 1.5 gallons of dex.
Drained it out, and i had plenty of capacity drained to get the proper mix.
Error on the side of caution, and i went for a little bit past 50/50.
Having that drain on the extra capacity radiator is much easier than pulling the lower radiator hose.
Now I'm looking at making mostly unnecessary guard for the hood latch.
Last year i proved i could pop the hood externally using a long screw driver, and with the crazy neighbor issue that recently got worse since i decided to act on a hunch and called one of them out, i decided it's time to lock that mofo down.
I also caught the same creep twice now hanging around the front of the tahoe and the jeep when i went into the store for a quick second... lol
(Different stores!)
*tin foil hat on*
Wife has also ordered me to put one of the security camera's inside of the garage and for me to wear a gun when I'm working in there with the garage door open... lol
Anyways, i have a mesh installed into the grill that blocks view plus anything thick enough to pop that latch from entering without damaging the mesh.
(The mesh was installed originally to keep bugs and trash from clogging things up)
Now I'm looking at other gaps, and i noticed a pretty good one between the hood and the grill.
So messing around with some aluminum stock i have on hand i created something that protects the latch, blocks the gap, and it shouldn't block any normal function of that hood latch.
I'll snap a picture later, currently the aluminum etching primer is drying, and then I'll paint it a nice flat black.
gooffeyguy
Tom
The LED bars come on with the parking lights
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
Those are the last pieces for the trans cooler lines and power steering lines. It’ll be fun they said!
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
So….the Amazon delivery guy ran into the awning of my motorhome yesterday. The guy was really distraught and apologetic, plus Amazon has been easy to work with regarding the insurance claim. But damn! What the….¢k!
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
El Camino vs. 1.0Is this where GM got the idea for the Escalade EXT/Avalanche??? That is a REALLY long bed version!
Charlie207
Full Access Member
New rear swaybar end-links. Almost certainly didn't need them, but at least the new ones (AC Delco) look good.
Actual zero drama installing them just now! I assumed one of the four nuts would be rounded and seized into a single piece with the threaded portion, but they zipped right off.
The fronts were lost in shipping (crackhead UPS local sort), so now I have to wait until Scamazon updates the order before I can reorder.
Found a cheap dc clamp meter wanted to see what the mechman is putting out at idle.
This is with most stuff on, hangs around 120
Then with everything on plus jl audio back massager
This is with most stuff on, hangs around 120
Then with everything on plus jl audio back massager
iamdub
Full Access Member
Link to meter?
30 Dollar make ya hollar
Now i'm curious what it shows when revved up....
that's interesting. I was just playing with the 220amp alt, not on the truck but the car.. with everything I could think of on max with the windows down I got 101amps out of it at idle. it didn't break a sweat at that, even with a 10% under drive crank pulley and bigger than oem alt pulley. wonder if the rear ac is the extra amps of the truck's.
either way super happy for 130$. the mechman ones are super popular on the corvette boards too. since they are more plug and play on those specific cars with odd ball alternators but bit pricey for my wallet.
