What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Fless

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Two new front Denso Oxygen sensors
ACD 41-110 plugs with new Wires
I'm also trying to mount the Amazon oil catch can I bought over a year ago but looks like a trip to hardware store will be needed. Last week my CEL came in for the front O2s so I did both of them for good measure. I had the plugs sitting in tool box over 9 months also so I figure it was time. Boy that passenger rear plug is a jerk!! I removed the oil dip stick for more clearance and she came out easy.

The simple solution to the #8 spark plug access:

 

Tonyrodz

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Two new front Denso Oxygen sensors
ACD 41-110 plugs with new Wires
I'm also trying to mount the Amazon oil catch can I bought over a year ago but looks like a trip to hardware store will be needed. Last week my CEL came in for the front O2s so I did both of them for good measure. I had the plugs sitting in tool box over 9 months also so I figure it was time. Boy that passenger rear plug is a jerk!! I removed the oil dip stick for more clearance and she came out easy.
Did you have a hard time with the o2's? I had to take mine to a garage because I stripped one. I even used those special o2 sockets.
 

iamdub

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Two new front Denso Oxygen sensors
ACD 41-110 plugs with new Wires
I'm also trying to mount the Amazon oil catch can I bought over a year ago but looks like a trip to hardware store will be needed. Last week my CEL came in for the front O2s so I did both of them for good measure. I had the plugs sitting in tool box over 9 months also so I figure it was time. Boy that passenger rear plug is a jerk!! I removed the oil dip stick for more clearance and she came out easy.

Happen to take any pics of the new plugs? I'm curious who makes them for ACDelco's "Professional" line. Also, did you confirm they were authentic? Not trying to scare you, but it could be a matter of life or death for your engine. The print on the box looks blurry, but that could just be the camera's focus. For reference:



Also, I'd advise you to check that baffle inside the catch can to ensure it's either aluminum or stainless steel. There are some of that style with regular carbon steel baffles that will corrode. While it's open, add a stainless steel scrubbing pad to increase the catch can's effectiveness.

scotch-brite-sponges-scouring-pads-214c-cc-64_1000.jpg
 

blueinkd

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Did you have a hard time with the o2's? I had to take mine to a garage because I stripped one. I even used those special o2 sockets.
Little torch had to come out and play on the driver side one. Heated it up about 2 mins n it broke loose. I knew it was going to be a fun one so I had the torch n sockets ready to prevent rounding the nuts
 

blueinkd

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The simple solution to the #8 spark plug access:

Looks good. I will try it next time.
 

blueinkd

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Happen to take any pics of the new plugs? I'm curious who makes them for ACDelco's "Professional" line. Also, did you confirm they were authentic? Not trying to scare you, but it could be a matter of life or death for your engine. The print on the box looks blurry, but that could just be the camera's focus. For reference:



Also, I'd advise you to check that baffle inside the catch can to ensure it's either aluminum or stainless steel. There are some of that style with regular carbon steel baffles that will corrode. While it's open, add a stainless steel scrubbing pad to increase the catch can's effectiveness.

View attachment 388126
I bought the plugs directly from an ACD distributor. No doubts they are authentic.

The can is the amazon special folks were installing last year on here. I've had it well over a year in the garage. What so u mean by the "baffle"? It looks to be an aluminum piece all around and they included a pad similar to that picture of the scotch Brite pads posted.
 

Rocket Man

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The simple solution to the #8 spark plug access:

hey there
 

MassHoe04

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Did you have a hard time with the o2's? I had to take mine to a garage because I stripped one. I even used those special o2 sockets.
If replacing O2 sensors with new...
I disconnect the connector from the harness and snip the pigtail off the O2 sensor with wire snips.
That way, you do not need any special tool or socket to remove.

Without the connector plug on the sensor, you can easily slip a good box wrench on the sensor.
I got mine out with a few light taps on the box wrench with a hammer. Nothing crazy... Just tap-tap and both broke free without issue.
Didn't need the torch and the box wrench got a firm grip on the sensor without slipping or rounding.

Sizing of the wrench is key...Not sure if it was SAE or metric. I just made sure the fit on the box wrench was the one that did not wiggle when I was fitting it to the sensor.
If you can feel the wrench wiggle the slightest when you slip it on, it might start rounding over on you.

I believe the copper anti-seize we all have in our garages is the wrong kind and can be a problem if used.
Too much of a good thing is also not good, so use just what they give you.
New sensors from Ac/Delco, NGK or Denso should all come with a little squeeze tube of anti-seize in the box. Be sure to use it. The kind they supply with the sensor is the kind intended for the sensors and is the right amount.
 

iamdub

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I bought the plugs directly from an ACD distributor. No doubts they are authentic.

The can is the amazon special folks were installing last year on here. I've had it well over a year in the garage. What so u mean by the "baffle"? It looks to be an aluminum piece all around and they included a pad similar to that picture of the scotch Brite pads posted.

A year or so ago is when I saw some of those ubiquitous Amazon cans had a carbon steel baffle. They were otherwise identical. The baffle is the round plate with holes in it. I saw pics of someone opening theirs after it being installed for so long to find that plate was rusted to a mush. Now that you mentioned it, I do recall some of the cans including the Scotch Brite pad.

There are still many blindly getting screwed by counterfeit spark plugs so I had to mention it. Sounds like you're good to go. Carry on!
 

Alex_M

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Did you have a hard time with the o2's? I had to take mine to a garage because I stripped one. I even used those special o2 sockets.
Best thing I've found for O2 sensors is this style O2 wrench. I've used every different type of wrench and socket I've seen and this is by far the best. Night and day difference.
o2wrench.jpg
 

Alex_M

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Finally threw a new CV in and changed the oil. Had a very small amount of metal in the oil, unfortunately. At 305k I reckon it's time, but the darn thing still makes 65-70psi oil pressure driving down the road. Rattle's pretty good for about 50-60 seconds on cold start up, and then doesn't make any more noise the rest of the day. Like the anti-drain back valve lets it leak down overnight.

We'll let her ride out long as she's able I reckon.
 

YukonBrian

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Installed new control arms, upper and lower for both sides. All four balljoints were toast, so it was a good time to get it done.

As a bonus this is the last piece of my Moog steering/suspension refresh in the front with new Bilstein 4600 shocks. Alignment service is scheduled for Wednesday to square everything away, then I can actually start looking at ordering some new KO2 tires.

This has been about 4 months in the making, so I’m happy to have everything done. The truck steers and absorbs the roads amazingly now.

Install pics below:

The passenger side lower ball joint was bound inside the knuckle and had to be cut out. This was a horrible start to the day and added some hours of cutting/hammering/torching:
C9FA3713-24E5-442D-A07C-40A8DA8F93A1.jpeg



To get the rest of the balljoint out, I ended up needing to pull off the whole knuckle. You can still see the rest of the ball joint in this pic with the knuckle. After I got it laid on the bench, I used tension from a balljoint press and heat to finally coax it out. When it broke free, it shot out of the knuckle and flew across the shop.

D66C4CED-37F9-4A02-B2B4-624D53239316.jpeg



The driver side was a breeze and I was able to remove the ball joints with a few taps on a pickle fork. I don’t have a final assembly pic, but I do have a pic of just the lower control arm as I was getting started on the upper.
4F52CC06-16A9-4B47-9D9F-8802876646CE.jpeg



This all took me about 16 hours in total lift rental time. So, I didn’t save a ton on labor but it was a fun experience as someone who hasn’t done more than brake pads/tune ups before.

My next fix is going to be a new side battery terminal bolts and an alternator/tensioner/idler/serpentine belt combo as I’m noticing some weird voltage drops when I left off the throttle from higher revs (~3k). Those parts come Tuesday, so I’m crossing my fingers it solves the problem and I don’t have a larger electrical system issue.

The charging system attention is needed anyway as my sound system gets installed in February.
 

blueinkd

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So my hvac and radio are completely dark at night. Long break next week so I grabbed some stuff to tinker with. I have seen plenty of videos on the digital hvac process. Some mention polarity of the LEDs and some don't but I will use the usspeedo video which clearly shows negative side.

Any tips and tricks are appreciated!! I do have an extra hvac digital control module I picked up for $20 I will be swapping bulbs out first. In getting that gun from Lowes because it's available locally as it's too late for anything from Amazon and it not make it in.

Is the headlight/dimmer switch not serviceable?? What about the fog light switch???
 

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Fless

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So my hvac and radio are completely dark at night. Long break next week so I grabbed some stuff to tinker with. I have seen plenty of videos on the digital hvac process. Some mention polarity of the LEDs and some don't but I will use the usspeedo video which clearly shows negative side.

Any tips and tricks are appreciated!! I do have an extra hvac digital control module I picked up for $20 I will be swapping bulbs out first. In getting that gun from Lowes because it's available locally as it's too late for anything from Amazon and it not make it in.

Is the headlight/dimmer switch not serviceable?? What about the fog light switch???

I think I'd be using a small soldering iron on the circuit boards, maybe a 15-25 watt pencil iron. The gun shown is way too bulky and unwieldy, and could burn the board too easily. I use an Antex Precision that's about 30 years old but is great for small stuff like this, with a chisel tip.

The last pic -- the headlight bulb -- just pushes in and twists (after the other is out). No soldering required.
 

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