Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
randeez

randeez

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Posts
6,027
Reaction score
18,434
Location
south florida
its together and working for the most part, there is still some stuff to do that isnt really critical to it working.

-awd or 4wd, I kind of like the idea of having selectable 2wd/4wd/4lo but i would need to cut a hole in the floor and install a selector and actual times i need it are going to be very slim where id want it over awd. I will say the all terrains are crap on wet roads with this much power in 2wd, i havent (and wouldnt) try driving it in 4wd. AWD just involves putting the np149 (or bw4485?) case and away we go, it already gets dogshit for mpg so if i loose another 1-2 NBD. and its just done, the np149 is completely rebuilt, not as strong as the np261 but again im not really using it as if i need it to be. the np149 took a beating before it eventually broke.

new rear shocks - im still using QA1s on the extenders, rides good. but to replace them with an offroad shock that is also adjustable, and get rid of the extenders is 350/ea. so i just havent pulled trigger on those yet.

need a new hood, would be nice to ebay one the same color somewhat "local" i could just go pick up

it could probably use a new converter, i was up in the air last time i had trans (and it rebuilt) so i think they assumed i was still racing it, launching it off two-step/trans brake....not be lifted on 35s cruiser
 
OP
OP
randeez

randeez

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Posts
6,027
Reaction score
18,434
Location
south florida
What could possibly be wrong with the hood?:hmmm2:
Or I need to install ctsv hood vent

I also think I may have a cracked oil pan. It doesnt leak enough to drip but it covers the side and bottom of the pan. I have tried new gasket with rtv in the corners, I've taken all the bolts out and put them back in with rtv . It kinda just leaks on the driverside and then runs down to the bottom. And leaks around the filter and cooler block off plate. It has a drain for the turbo oil in it so can't just swap easy. Need to grab another pan and get the fitting welded in about the same spot.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
randeez

randeez

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Posts
6,027
Reaction score
18,434
Location
south florida
sooo this thing is boring as shit.
i finally found someone to send me a stock denali "catback" exhaust (3.5") i scabbed it to the 4" downpipe, no cut out or anything and its nice and quiet inside cruising, zero drone i do love it but its a little too restrictive lol. a lot of back pressure causes a) very slow spool and b) wastegate differential only lets it make like 8psi before it opens - i can mess with the controller but the more its turned up it just compounds the pressure, which is no good.
it's not slow but just handicapped from its former glory.
i have been looking for better headers to us as forward turbo headers. i have a set of speed engineering (which are shorter than) and a set of flowtech. both are 1-7/8 primaries/3" collector. i would much prefer to use them as down and forward, but driverside hits the steering rack, passenger side i think would work, but id need to move the ac compressor. up and forward ***** everything up, have to remote mount coils, a lot of the exhaust is in the engine bay and makes a lot of underhood heat. i know stock manifolds are good for 1000hp all day but with 427cubes they are also restrictive - all the shorty headers i found were 1-5/8 primaries, would be a lot better than stock manifolds im sure, but really wanted the largest primary i could find, good plug access, tight to the block etc.

the setup i had with the bigger turbo and forward headers ran better in every single way imo than the crossover and manifold. better in boost, better out of boost, faster spool (even with larger turbo). but was fighting with some other things at the time and decided to go back to the cross over for "reliability", pretty sure issues are resolved and its just boring, unimpressive for what it has been to me. time to bring back the ridiculousness. step one was finding a header i could make down a forward work, was about to grab largest shorty "stock replacement i could find then found these f'n things.... 2" primaries with 3" log :Big Laugh: going to run them down and forward, may have to make a little kick to get around accessories but they should stop way short allowing me to route better. i am going to try and place turbo in same spot as before, however i may also replace the exhaust housing with the tial stainless one, they are supposed to help spool even faster because AR is physically smaller but more effecient because of the design and finishing process so top end power isnt effected. i will probably order one after i get turbo mounted and see if i can make it work. ordered the headers, will probably wait for these to get here before i rip out all the old crap and i can atleast put something back on it and move it around if i need to


"stock" replacement log manifolds 2" primary/3" vband
s-l500.jpg
tial exhaust housing:
003404-2_600x600.jpg
and i grabbed a 60mm flange from motion raceworks a long time ago, when i first started running the 94mm gt55 with the plan of installing it right on the exhaust housing of the turbo (no more out the hood) and recircing it back into the 5" down pipe, which is already set up for a cutout :
0003_IMG_0209_a6090632-e81c-4350-9965-296bb0a4fbd6.jpg
 
OP
OP
randeez

randeez

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Posts
6,027
Reaction score
18,434
Location
south florida
maintenance wise...oil pan still leaks - i swapped the gasket a couple months ago, pulled all the mounting bolts and put some rtv on them it just looks like the gasket isnt sealing. not sure if the shape of the dart block is slightly different than stock and the gasket doesnt seal well. moroso has a specific pan for dart blocks and looks like it should work. i need to measure distance down to rack and pinion, one of the hard lines on the rack is almost touching the stock pan right now - but i think thats going to be a problem for all aftermarket pans. and i think theres enough meat to weld in a bung for turbo drain

and awd transfer case is going back in, made executive decision. even with the reduced power in the rain its spins at any speed giving it even mild throttle
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
randeez

randeez

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Posts
6,027
Reaction score
18,434
Location
south florida
also transmission wiring connector is leaking, seems like a pretty simple deal to swap but not sure if the transbrake adds some more wiring - imagining it does cause the only thing external that is added is the control wire through the cover. so may call rossler and see if they have a premade harness or what.

called dealership with ctsv, he did say all the parts have showed up, finishing up a few vehicles early next week and should be able to get mine done by the end of the week
 

Forum statistics

Threads
128,786
Posts
1,805,399
Members
91,766
Latest member
GeorgeC
Top