Yeah she a good ole girl lol, but the original box has been sold unfortunately…I had this CAI on with the original intake and the noise wasn’t present. Upgraded to this one and it’s been this way since.
HELP!!!
- Thread starter NBSTAHOE
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Was the intake purchased new or used? I'd imagine new since it didn't look dirty. If none of the vacuum lines are compromised, I'd be interested to see if the intake has any hairline cracks in it (if it were my vehicle). I know it's not the most fun thing to pull back off especially since it's been done 3 times now but I'd imagine a crack somewhere in one of the runners, where the throttle body meets, or somewhere else in the intake is a possibility at this point.
I'm not the most well-versed in intakes though, so take it with a grain of salt.
I'm not the most well-versed in intakes though, so take it with a grain of salt.
Hey thanks for the quick responses, this was a used intake. That’s what I was thinking worse case scenario, is there anyway I can pressure test the intake itself? Like will the smoke prove if there was a crack in that location?
The smoke test could tell you if there was an obvious leak; plastic won't expand or contract as readily as metal will, otherwise you'd be able to test it warm and [possibly] get better results. I'm not sure if you'll get enough smoke to find a leak source from a hairline crack but it wouldn't hurt to invest the $2 for a cheap gas station cigar and fill the intake up with smoke.
If the smoke test is inconclusive, it may be in your best interest / sanity to pull the intake again and inspect it thoroughly.
If the smoke test is inconclusive, it may be in your best interest / sanity to pull the intake again and inspect it thoroughly.
I’ll give that a try tomorrow and post results.
Mudsport96
Full Access Member
Noises are a real pain to diag over the internet. Is it possible that the noise is actually the aftermarket throttle body whistling? And you are probably going to have performance and mileage issues until you get the truck tuned for the new intake.
This guy had a whistle with the tbss and 4 inch intake tube.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/f...mance-21/whistling-throttle-body-help-534510/
This guy had a whistle with the tbss and 4 inch intake tube.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/f...mance-21/whistling-throttle-body-help-534510/
Yeah I’ve read where people have drilled holes in the TB. I’ve also read that for this particular mod that a tune is not required but wouldn’t hurt. I tried everything this guy tried, and some people get a whistle, and some don’t. I’ve replaced IAC and TPS. Acdelco and Delphi parts. Still whistles. Felpro gasket. Adjusting the TB screw will get it to idle fine, give it gas and the sound comes back. It’s raining today, but I’m really thinking bout pulling off the intake and starting all over.
I don't believe that drilling the TB will do anything for this issue other than increase your idle speed. In the shop we would use a smoke machine to diagnose the leak, if any. Here is a simple smoke machine DIY build. If you are getting a 440 trouble code, Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0440 stands for “Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction – Large Leak.” You may have pulled a line loose during installation or something is cracked. I don't think that you are looking for a hairline crack, I'm guessing that it is something BIG
I’m betting there’s a vacuum line disconnected somewhere.
I’ve decided to pull the intake again and see if it’s something I missed, it’s just been raining 3 in a row.
FollowingI’ve decided to pull the intake again and see if it’s something I missed, it’s just been raining 3 in a row.
Ok.
I used a cigar on the brake booster hose to see if I could spot any leaks. There where none. All hoses are practically new and in Good shape. The sound is coming from TB. It’s a Holley Sniper EFI #860008-1. The noise is coming directly from that. But there aren’t any leaks anywhere. I’m confused.
I used a cigar on the brake booster hose to see if I could spot any leaks. There where none. All hoses are practically new and in Good shape. The sound is coming from TB. It’s a Holley Sniper EFI #860008-1. The noise is coming directly from that. But there aren’t any leaks anywhere. I’m confused.
Your evap code is for "large leak" which means the evap system is seeing no vacuum at all, your leak is definitely related to the evap system which connects after the throttle body; so you may be hearing it from the throttle body but I doubt that is the source.
Remove the evap plunger and start the engine, then plug the hole in the intake with your thumb and see if the leak goes away; if it does you will know that the plunger or the plastic line is damaged.
Remove the evap plunger and start the engine, then plug the hole in the intake with your thumb and see if the leak goes away; if it does you will know that the plunger or the plastic line is damaged.
I’ve removed every single hardline and rubber hose checked for leaks. Didn’t spot any leaks. The sound only appears on first startup for a few seconds and then disappears after idle regulates. The sound is present when I give it gas, and when I’m downshifting coming to a complete stop. Sometimes at the stop it’ll surge up then back down. The idle is too high, and the noise is associated with the idle. Smoke didn’t detect a leak, and I visually didn’t detect any. New FelPro gaskets, IAC, TPS and again the TB Is a Holley Sniper EFI 860008-1. I’ve adjusted the TB screw to an ideal throttle and the noise will go away, it’s only present on start up, And acceleration. More notable with a cold start. The sound comes from the CAI. When you remove the CAI it comes from TB itself. Disconnect any sensor while the truck is running and it stalls. I’m lost.
Have you reached out to Holley?
No I haven’t. I’ve just seen videos now recently of the “Sniper whistle” but it’s for a different unit than mine…
Mudsport96
Full Access Member
That is air being drawn around the blade. Is there a minimum closed angle you need to set?
I only know what that is from my ford site. The older fords had a set screw to adjust the blades from closing too far and causing that. It was also used to some degree to set minimum TPS angle to achieve the correct voltage signal at idle or you get a poor idle quality. Read direction to see it there is anything you need to adjust.
Just for grins disconnect the tps and ever so slightly crack the throttle and see if it goes away.
Also is the tps adjustable on that unit?
I only know what that is from my ford site. The older fords had a set screw to adjust the blades from closing too far and causing that. It was also used to some degree to set minimum TPS angle to achieve the correct voltage signal at idle or you get a poor idle quality. Read direction to see it there is anything you need to adjust.
Just for grins disconnect the tps and ever so slightly crack the throttle and see if it goes away.
Also is the tps adjustable on that unit?
Mudsport96
Full Access Member
Never mind i googled it, there os an adjustable throttle stop. Slowly turn it until the noise goes away. May have to play with the tune to get a good idle after that. The blade is too far shut and it's forcing air around it to stay running.
I did call Holley. No help. When I adjust the idle screw the noise will go away, during idle, if I crack the throttle it returns. Crack the throttle with the IAC unplugged the noise goes away completely. So do I reset IAC somehow? Measure voltage of TPS, then adjust the throttle blade?
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