What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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kbuskill

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What is the big 3 upgrade?

Here you go...

https://mobileinstallguide.com/big-3/#:~:text=The Big 3 Upgrade is a relatively inexpensive,wire or replacing the factory wire all together.

1. Alternator to positive battery terminal.
2. Negative terminal to chassis.
3. Chassis to engine block.
= Big 3 upgrade

I actually added an extra 2/0 cable from the engine block to the chassis since these trucks don't have one from the factory...
downloadfile-42.jpg


These trucks come with a negative cable that goes from the battery down to the engine block and then just a small braided ground strap from the back of the drivers head up to the firewall, but nothing from the engine block down to the chassis.

Here you can see that the 2/0 cable from the battery to engine block just barely fits through the RVC sensor...
downloadfile-47.jpg
 
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Rocket Man

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I built my own cables out of 2/0 Marine grade tinned copper shielded cable and soldered copper lugs on the ends with marine grade (it has a heat activated glue inside) heat shrink. I did what is referred to as "the big 3" upgrade.
View attachment 272394


I used these terminals and soldered them on...
View attachment 272395

I guess it depends on your battery though. Mine has side and top posts.

The 2/0 is definitely overkill but I found a good deal on it.
Nice.
 

Sparksalot

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Here you go...

https://mobileinstallguide.com/big-3/#:~:text=The Big 3 Upgrade is a relatively inexpensive,wire or replacing the factory wire all together.

1. Alternator to positive battery terminal.
2. Negative terminal to chassis.
3. Chassis to engine block.
= Big 3 upgrade

I actually added an extra 2/0 cable from the engine block to the chassis since these trucks don't have one from the factory...
View attachment 272403

These trucks come with a negative cable that goes from the battery down to the engine block and then just a small braided ground strap from the back of the drivers head up to the firewall, but nothing from the engine block down to the chassis.

Here you can see that the 2/0 cable from the battery to engine block just barely fits through the RVC sensor...
View attachment 272404
I gotcha.
What is the RVC?
 

wsteele

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Roughly where is this located by chance.

I just noticed a floating disconnected plug in thecopcar. Also just had a B1516 code pop up.

On my Yukon SLT, the RVC sensor is on the negative battery cable, maybe a foot down the primary run. It is a clamp looking gadget with a snap in connector to a wiring bundle that I assume goes right to the PCM. Not sure if a PPV has the same stuff.
 

Sparksalot

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On my Yukon SLT, the RVC sensor is on the negative battery cable, maybe a foot down the primary run. It is a clamp looking gadget with a snap in connector to a wiring bundle that I assume goes right to the PCM. Not sure if a PPV has the same stuff.
I just found it exactly there. The dangling plug seems to come from the fans, which actually do run. I wonder if it was left over from the recall/upgrade and just dropped loose.
 

wsteele

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I just found it exactly there. The dangling plug seems to come from the fans, which actually do run. I wonder if it was left over from the recall/upgrade and just dropped loose.

I just read that the wiring to the RVC sensor comes from the BCM. Maybe plug it back together and see if the code goes away? BTW, the code I think is specifically some sort of problem detected in the seat driver occupied switch, not sure how that might relate to the RVC sensor. Other than maybe a bad BCM or a problem in the wiring harness?
 

wsteele

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Sparksalot

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I just read that the wiring to the RVC sensor comes from the BCM. Maybe plug it back together and see if the code goes away? BTW, the code I think is specifically some sort of problem detected in the seat driver occupied switch, not sure how that might relate to the RVC sensor. Other than maybe a bad BCM or a problem in the wiring harness?
The RVC sensor is still plugged in okay. I was reading the Remy document and saw the parameters controlling charging, including underhood temp. The temp got pretty warm roaming Big Bend this weekend. I did not check the code again after I got home.

I also need to put the whole Tech2 spaghetti together and mess with it. Might be the first this I go look for. After programming my new key fob.
 

wsteele

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The RVC sensor is still plugged in okay. I was reading the Remy document and saw the parameters controlling charging, including underhood temp. The temp got pretty warm roaming Big Bend this weekend. I did not check the code again after I got home.

I also need to put the whole Tech2 spaghetti together and mess with it. Might be the first this I go look for. After programming my new key fob.

On the Tech 2, if you have a clone like mine, my issues all were related to cheap knock offs of the connectors from the unit to the CANdi and down to the ODBII port. I also read in the User manual that you should use the power port on the cable, versus the power port on the unit bottom next to the RS232 connector, for any power while the unit is plugged into the truck. Of course, the unit will get power from the ODB as well, if the battery is up to *****. But for some reason, unless you are running the unit not plugged into the truck, you shouldn't use the DC in on th bottom of the hand held unit (I can only guess it is ground related).
 

Sparksalot

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On the Tech 2, if you have a clone like mine, my issues all were related to cheap knock offs of the connectors from the unit to the CANdi and down to the ODBII port. I also read in the User manual that you should use the power port on the cable, versus the power port on the unit bottom next to the RS232 connector, for any power while the unit is plugged into the truck. Of course, the unit will get power from the ODB as well, if the battery is up to *****. But for some reason, unless you are running the unit not plugged into the truck, you shouldn't use the DC in on th bottom of the hand held unit (I can only guess it is ground related).
I’m trying to identify all the “stuff”. I’m guessing this thing is the candi unit?

FD82EEE5-D9F2-469E-B428-83D7145792AA.jpeg 8B988B14-ACC3-4504-A048-63895C631B1C.jpeg
 

cfmistry

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The left front blinker was hyperflashing, so I put a new bulb in... it's still hyperflashing. Tried another, the same thing. Ideas??
 

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