What did you do to your 2015-2020 K2XX Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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tsuintx

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you wont be disappointed in the 3.0's...being in a projector rather than a traditional halogen housing is far different than the previous models, i have mine adjusted UP slightly after install...have not had a single driver flash me yet, and recently did a 1600 mile trip.View attachment 268508 View attachment 268509

Good point about the housing. First K2xx SUV for us, so things might work differently with LEDs in these than in the GMT900.

Your pics actually were the ones that kind of pushed me over to spend the coin on Morimotos. Everybody keeps saying how good they are compared to any cheapos, like the ones I had in the GMT900. I sure hope that's true, since the price difference is pretty damn big! LOL!
 

RB_Trucker

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I installed the ACDelco slotted rotors and ceramic pads PN/SDPR210TK along with a 0w20 synthetic oil change with a ACDelco filter PN/UPF63R. New cabin filter and cleaned my Volant CAI filter. It was a day for general maintenance 35,700 it was due for some love.





E1ECBD29-1F0F-437E-91B4-03B949CA6158.jpeg
 

STORMIN08

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T...Best 200 bucks i have spent yet !

Rockcrawler...looking forward to the feed back o performance. i have been looking at the power stop brakes, and overlooked this option
 

89Suburban

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I installed the ACDelco slotted rotors and ceramic pads PN/SDPR210TK along with a 0w20 synthetic oil change with a ACDelco filter PN/UPF63R. New cabin filter and cleaned my Volant CAI filter. It was a day for general maintenance 35,700 it was due for some love.





View attachment 268544


Got some character on the front fender lip there I see?
 

RB_Trucker

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T...Best 200 bucks i have spent yet !

Rockcrawler...looking forward to the feed back o performance. i have been looking at the power stop brakes, and overlooked this option


After break-in procedure was done I did about 170 miles of street/freeway driving, initial bite is way better and just as smooth as factory, they’re very quiet too.I like how much stronger the brakes are as the pedal is pushed down. I’m thinking it’s the Ceramic pads making alot of the difference. I’m sure stopping distance has a few feet taken off too. Overall a very nice Stock+ upgrade if you don’t want stoptech pricing or the “big brake” kits out there. 24month/24,000mi warranty too.
 

Jeff_

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Picked up my CPO Tahoe about a week or so ago.
I don't trust dealerships when it comes to maintenance things (most things honestly) so I decided to changed the oil.

Went to remove the AC Delco oil filter and it was put on so ******* tight by some moron at the Chevy dealer (probably with air tools) that I couldn't get it off with oil filter wrenches or any sort of socket adaptor to remove it. Ended up crushing and crimpling the thing trying to get it off with no success.
Ended up doing the good ole fashion hammer a phillips screwdriver through one side and out the other and then twisted it off with a good amount of effort that way.

Thus proving my point that I don't trust the dealer and I do all my maintenance myself.
Successful morning.
 

Flydex

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Changed oil, filter and air filter. Rotated tires and inspected the underbody while it was on the lift. Having a lift in the garage is one of the best things any serious owner can do, what a life changer.

I used Mobil1 0W-20 and a Napa Gold filter. This interval was 4,300 miles and the oil was black. This is the second change I’ve personally done and the second time the car has seen Mobil1 0W-20 EP. Mileage is 80,800. Yikes. Hoping to get 120k out of the car.
 

Tonyv__

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Picked up my CPO Tahoe about a week or so ago.
I don't trust dealerships when it comes to maintenance things (most things honestly) so I decided to changed the oil.

Went to remove the AC Delco oil filter and it was put on so ******* tight by some moron at the Chevy dealer (probably with air tools) that I couldn't get it off with oil filter wrenches or any sort of socket adaptor to remove it. Ended up crushing and crimpling the thing trying to get it off with no success.
Ended up doing the good ole fashion hammer a phillips screwdriver through one side and out the other and then twisted it off with a good amount of effort that way.

Thus proving my point that I don't trust the dealer and I do all my maintenance myself.
Successful morning.
I don’t trust them for shit. My Yukon had 100% oil life when I bought it. But about 2 weeks later it had low oil warning... I changed my oil and it’s been fine for about 3 months now with no change in oil level. They’re just idiots.
 

tsuintx

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Got goodies from The Retrofitsource and of course had to get to it right away.

I don’t quite get why these aftermarket companies can’t get their bulbs dialed in so that the LEDs are at 9 and 3 as I’m pretty sure that’s where they should be.

Anyway..., got them in and just slightly off from the 9/3 position and worked fine. Until it got dark and wanted go test them out. Then passenger side started to flicker and went off before I even got out of the driveway. Of course the passenger side which is the difficult one to access. Said screw it and decided to check stuff out tomorrow.

No idea what’s going on with it since I did double check all connections etc. and all was fine. Oh well... Tomorrow...

C2766435-0802-46A8-931E-438372D6397A.jpeg View attachment 268870 F9520DDC-70BB-49D0-856B-E7A8E6C2B5F8.jpeg
 
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STORMIN08

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the first drive i made, i had one bulb go out...the connection felt tight, but was actually 90* off. luckily it was driver side, but i did recheck the pass and have ZERO issues with the product.
 

tsuintx

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the first drive i made, i had one bulb go out...the connection felt tight, but was actually 90* off. luckily it was driver side, but i did recheck the pass and have ZERO issues with the product.

Lucky you! Having the passenger side go out is about par for how things usually go with me. LOL!
 

Tonyv__

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Changed oil, filter and air filter. Rotated tires and inspected the underbody while it was on the lift. Having a lift in the garage is one of the best things any serious owner can do, what a life changer.

I used Mobil1 0W-20 and a Napa Gold filter. This interval was 4,300 miles and the oil was black. This is the second change I’ve personally done and the second time the car has seen Mobil1 0W-20 EP. Mileage is 80,800. Yikes. Hoping to get 120k out of the car.

my garage isn’t tall enough for a lift. I barely squeeze past the garage door
 

tsuintx

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Checked passenger side light and everything was fine. Still a no go.

Connector was tight on. Even tried turning the connector around and light didn’t come on at all.

Lights come on just fine, but right when you step on the brake to shift out of park, both flicker and passenger side goes out and doesn’t come on until you turn lights off and back on. But, when you put it in gear, passenger side goes out again. Put everything back and decided to continue the fight another day. Need to also swap them side to side to see if that makes a difference.

Might need to also contact Retrofitsource to see what they say. Might have as well spent 50-60 bucks on a cheapo set off Amazon if the stuff doesn’t work.
 

Doubeleive

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Checked passenger side light and everything was fine. Still a no go.

Connector was tight on. Even tried turning the connector around and light didn’t come on at all.

Lights come on just fine, but right when you step on the brake to shift out of park, both flicker and passenger side goes out and doesn’t come on until you turn lights off and back on. But, when you put it in gear, passenger side goes out again. Put everything back and decided to continue the fight another day. Need to also swap them side to side to see if that makes a difference.

Might need to also contact Retrofitsource to see what they say. Might have as well spent 50-60 bucks on a cheapo set off Amazon if the stuff doesn’t work.
If you have a multi meter check the polarity on both sides of the truck, if you have one or both backwards that could maybe cause your issue, otherwise you are likely just getting low voltage and you could use a set of relays and wire direct to the battery and use the headlight positive as a trigger only, wire power direct to the battery and ground to frame and you will not have any issue anymore. LED's and HID"S like plenty of voltage, 12v is minimum power so direct to battery is the best way to go. hook your lights to the battery to test and I bet they work everytime.
 

tsuintx

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If you have a multi meter check the polarity on both sides of the truck, if you have one or both backwards that could maybe cause your issue, otherwise you are likely just getting low voltage and you could use a set of relays and wire direct to the battery and use the headlight positive as a trigger only, wire power direct to the battery and ground to frame and you will not have any issue anymore. LED's and HID"S like plenty of voltage, 12v is minimum power so direct to battery is the best way to go. hook your lights to the battery to test and I bet they work everytime.

Definitely something I should do.

However, I would also expect these expensive and quite highly recommended Morimotos to work as advertized. That’s why I bought them and not cheapos.

But yeah, of course it could be something with the truck.
 

Doubeleive

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Definitely something I should do.

However, I would also expect these expensive and quite highly recommended Morimotos to work as advertized. That’s why I bought them and not cheapos.

But yeah, of course it could be something with the truck.
aftermarket headlights almost always need extra power, I always recommend using relays direct to the battery it takes the load off of the factory harness and just works better, it eliminates troublesome voltage issue's.
 

CMoore711

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I got the Morimoto 2 stroke 3.0 in 9005 for my high beams and have had zero issues. Plug and play.
 

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