What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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89Suburban

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Snap a pic of the bottom edge of the door with it open. Hows that rubber flap/seal that wuns along the inside bottom and covers the drain plugs?

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It’s there and in tact. I’ll get a pic shortly.
 
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When I close it it is nice and smooth latching action. I don’t notice any dragging or lifting as the latch engages the striker. You would think with the miles this thing has it would actually be hanging lower.
Do the bolts on the hinges look like they've had wrenches on them/toolmarks?

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Rocket Man

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Is there something I can put on the seal to shut the door and see where the gaps are? Some kind of marking material? Chalk??
Chalk should work, get a bottle of the blue stuff for a chalk reel and you can rub it on the door around the perimeter where the door meets the seal, close the door just hard enough to latch, and open it. Clean the seal first so it shows up good.
 

Tonyrodz

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Please esplain.
I'm not sure of the exact procedure, but while fixing my own car in my friend's body shop I heard him mention that more then once about different cars coming in. I've seen him actually yank and push/pull the entire door while it was on the car to get it aligned--the body lines to match up. How do your hinges look? Any paint cracked or flaked off?
 

89Suburban

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Do the bolts on the hinges look like they've had wrenches on them/toolmarks?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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Some kind of inner cord? Yeah that’s how it came. ****** up aint it?
I've seen that inner cord thing on the rear liftgate weatherstrip on my 2001. It's supposed to go into each other (one is a tube and the other is solid) and help keep the seam together. It's usually inside the weatherstrip. Maybe with it making it's way out from underneath is what's causing your problem?
 
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I've seen that inner cord thing on the rear liftgate weatherstrip on my 2001. It's supposed to go into each other (one is a tube and the other is solid) and help keep the seam together. It's usually inside the weatherstrip. Maybe with it making it's way out from underneath is what's causing your problem?

OK, maybe that's not what I thought after looking at it more closely.

Did your new weatherstrip have the inner piece inserted to back-up the seam where they meet?
 

89Suburban

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OK, maybe that's not what I thought after looking at it more closely.

Did your new weatherstrip have the inner piece inserted to back-up the seam where they meet?



Actually those little bingleberry strips are on the outside of the seal running around the perimeter. I did install that connector piece you are asking about. But when I looked this morning I didn;t see it. WTF? Maybe that is my issue. I don't think so though. Because if I move that striker in it seals up good.
 

iamdub

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...if I move that striker in it seals up good.


So, you need to make the bulb of the seal bigger. How about slipping something inside the bulb? Backer rod comes to mind. I don't know the inner clearance of that bulb part, but there are different sizes of this stuff. Might need to lube it a little. Just be careful that what you lube it with won't dissolve it.


Here's some 3/8":

https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-3-8-in-x-240-in-Backer-Rod-71464/202837935


ray-m-d-building-products-door-seals-71464-64_1000.jpg




1/4" on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Closed-Cell-Backer-Rod-Roll/dp/B001OBTZ1E
 

08z71bgm

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So, you need to make the bulb of the seal bigger. How about slipping something inside the bulb? Backer rod comes to mind. I don't know the inner clearance of that bulb part, but there are different sizes of this stuff. Might need to lube it a little. Just be careful that what you lube it with won't dissolve it.


Here's some 3/8":

https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-3-8-in-x-240-in-Backer-Rod-71464/202837935


ray-m-d-building-products-door-seals-71464-64_1000.jpg




1/4" on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Closed-Cell-Backer-Rod-Roll/dp/B001OBTZ1E
I used this on my 02 when the seal wasn’t sealing the door anymore. Cut a slit in it and started feeding it in. Worked for a very long time.
 

08z71bgm

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Went to go put new wiper blades on and had to return them. No J hooks on my arms. Anyone care to share the correct wipers so I can order them?
 

Monz11

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Picked up short block from machine shop yesterday. Had it bored out 40 over, forged pistons & rods. TSP Stage 2 upgrade cam, AFM & VVT delete

Threw heads on today, Comp Cam rocker Arms & lifters. New springs, TSP Chromoly 7.4 pushrods, All ARP bolts, installed melling HP oil pump, timing chain and valley covers.

Gotta go to powder coater on Monday.

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Sam Harris

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08z71bgm

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Picked up short block from machine shop yesterday. Had it bored out 40 over, forged pistons & rods. TSP Stage 2 upgrade cam, AFM & VVT delete

Threw heads on today, Comp Cam rocker Arms & lifters. New springs, TSP Chromoly 7.4 pushrods, All ARP bolts, installed melling HP oil pump, timing chain and valley covers.

Gotta go to powder coater on Monday.

View attachment 253873 View attachment 253876 View attachment 253877
Planning on boosting it?
 

wjburken

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Went to go put new wiper blades on and had to return them. No J hooks on my arms. Anyone care to share the correct wipers so I can order them?
There are early and late production wiper blades for that year. Sounds like you have the kind that can be a pain the rear. Had them on my ‘07 and ‘08. Can’t remember what they are called but if you look at the ones for ‘07 I think that will get you what you need.
 

Tonyrodz

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Picked up short block from machine shop yesterday. Had it bored out 40 over, forged pistons & rods. TSP Stage 2 upgrade cam, AFM & VVT delete

Threw heads on today, Comp Cam rocker Arms & lifters. New springs, TSP Chromoly 7.4 pushrods, All ARP bolts, installed melling HP oil pump, timing chain and valley covers.

Gotta go to powder coater on Monday.

View attachment 253873 View attachment 253876 View attachment 253877
Alot closer then I am. That yours or your buddy's?
 

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