Steering gear box leak

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Larryjb

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Funny, I just brought up the Advantage line in a related thread! I stay far away from Advantage, but will go Professional if OEM is not an option.
 

OR VietVet

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Ha! Did some research....I get it now.

AcDelco makes 3-levels. I thought only 2 levels.

Advantage - junk
Professional -normal aftermarket quality
OEM

I thought professional versions were the SAME as oem quality but apparently they are not and are all together a diff quality level. So, I guess if it doesn't state advantage or professional then it is probably the OEM level, and thus, a higher price.

Learning a lot.

Thanks PNW for steering me in the right direction!

"Steering you in the right direction". I see what you did there.
 
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new2yukon

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Got new toys the other day.

Pwr strg cooler
Idler
Pittman
Gearbox
High pressure line.

Got lines out and idler installed and strg cooler installed. Tore apart old idler mount. I pumped a LOT of grease before the grease came out. Must have been dry but I put in 2 pumps or so fairly regularly.


With wheels up:
6-12oclock no hub slop.
3-9oclock I get SLOP. Drvr side very noticeable. Psgr hardly get anything or feels tight.

I know tie rods do that....could my gear box do that if worn? Dont have new one in yet.

I'm thinking to reevaluate after I get the gearbox and stuff all in.

Thoughts?

0521201635.jpg 0521201634.jpg 0521201706.jpg
 

Larryjb

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Any play in the steering linkage, including the box, could give you 3-9 o'clock play. If you can get some one else to wiggle the wheel 3-9 o'clock, you can go under and feel each ball joint and see where you can perceive the play.
 

OR VietVet

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In order for the slop to be felt that much at the steering gear box shaft would have to have severe slop in it. I doubt that it does. Bet it is slop at the tie rod and recommend both if you do them and an alignment. Make sure you also check to see if any attachments at the center link have not hollowed out the holes and causing the slop. Please remember the power steering fluid bleed procedure during the refill. The main thing is to not do the initial refill and bleed with the front tires on the ground. Elevate, fill, turn slow stop to stop, refill, turn slow stop to stop, refill, turn slow stop to stop, start engine and go stop to stop, drop to ground, refill, turn slowly stop to stop and refill and stop to stop again and refill as needed and roadtest and check level and refill as needed. maybe even roadtest again and check level again.
 
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new2yukon

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I tried to shake/move the tie rods inr/otr and got nothing. But when a helper move steering wheel I seem to feel it in otr rod so that makes me think they gotta go. I think I'm right, just hoping the gearbox solves this and no more parts.

Like I said, when I get the other parts all done I will re-check and then that should be a for-sure answer.

Steering cooler was "easy" if you're PATIENT !! (thanks goes to youtube)

Thanks guys.
 

Larryjb

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You do know you have both inner and outer tie rod ends, right? So you will want 4 tie rod ends total.

If you can rotate the center link easily by hand, the inner tie rod ends definitely need replacement, but for the cost, and needing an alignment, I'd do all 4 tie rod ends anyway.
 
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new2yukon

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You do know you have both inner and outer tie rod ends, right? So you will want 4 tie rod ends total.

If you can rotate the center link easily by hand, the inner tie rod ends definitely need replacement, but for the cost, and needing an alignment, I'd do all 4 tie rod ends anyway.
I will check that out. All 4 replaced 40k miles ago. Hmmmm.

When u cant get enough out of a hammer...u buy a 3ft pipe to go over the pickle fork and get the big guy out to win the battle. Big power outside the chassis is better than dinkin' in small spaces. I win. Pittman arm wouldn't come off the link as easily as I hoped.

Tomorrow is disconnect steering shaft and its all down hill....I hope....except the tie rod question.

0522201951a.jpg
 
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new2yukon

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I got the gearbox out. Success !

My old idler and pitman and new ones have NO cotter pin and castle nut. Standard nut.

I feel I should put locktite blue on them as well as the 10mm strg shaft bolt.

Or locktite red? But maybe that's too much...just feel that they need extra insurance.

Yes?

On all the videos and reading no-one mentions locktite at all.
 

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