What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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HiHoeSilver

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Hey Rocket, I just replaced mine and I have a wide gap too. What would be out of place? My 2001 Tahoe is stock suspension stuff, what could require adjustment?

Need pics. At stock ride height, thet should be touching the control arms. Measure your fender heights, too. Betting somebody cranked the keys.
 

Sam Harris

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took the hoe for another 200 mile round trip to pick up my toy. love this cam. needs a 3k stall to free it up. stock tc blows with a cam this large.


little part throttle rip under a bridge lol im still a kid at heart.

Ahh hell yeah!!!!
 

lowpost99

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Need pics. At stock ride height, thet should be touching the control arms. Measure your fender heights, too. Betting somebody cranked the keys.
Interesting the front ones are touching. Only the rear ones are not. Front fender height is 35 1/2"
Rear is 35 3/4".
 

iamdub

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Interesting the front ones are touching. Only the rear ones are not. Front fender height is 35 1/2"
Rear is 35 3/4".

The front's aren't bump stops, they're "jounce stops" and are part of the suspension. The rears are bump stops and are to cushion the axle should it ever bottom out against the frame.
 

CDNTAHOE

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Tightened the rear shocks bolts ,cause it has been making noise and wow what a difference. Got two wheels resealed cause of corrosion on the inside of the wheels. Washed it. Still have to replace the driver side master door switch , I have it but it has been too cold to install.
 

gat0r

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took the hoe for another 200 mile round trip to pick up my toy. love this cam. needs a 3k stall to free it up. stock tc blows with a cam this large.


little part throttle rip under a bridge lol im still a kid at heart.



that sounds awesome

i've been thinking about long tubes for my burb.
but now im off to the YT & the google rabbit hole... searching for cam & forged internals :anitoof:
 

SnowDrifter

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If anyone recalls my roof leak near the rear/pass vents... It's back. Sigh

Need to find a better way to plug off the holes from roof rack removal. I had some butyl rubber around there for a while and it held up until we saw a couple freeze/that cycles. If anyone has ideas I'm all ears.

20200203_014450.jpg
 

iamdub

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If anyone recalls my roof leak near the rear/pass vents... It's back. Sigh

Need to find a better way to plug off the holes from roof rack removal. I had some butyl rubber around there for a while and it held up until we saw a couple freeze/that cycles. If anyone has ideas I'm all ears.

View attachment 239887

Sooo... Apparently even the roof rack holes in the NBS aren't blind. Or maybe it's leaking where the nutsert meets the sheet metal?

What do you have now, removed rack and put screws back in with some butyl under them or something else?

I just put a layer of RTV under the heads of mine then screwed them back in. We don't get many freezes here and it's only been a few months, though. For my final stage of that project, I plan to use hex socket head set screws with thread sealant, screw them down so they're recessed about an 1/8" then cover them with windshield adhesive. For good measure, I'll smear a layer of the windshield adhesive around the edge of the flange of the nutsert where it meets the sheet metal. Then I'll cover the whole line of mounting holes on each side with low-profile body-colored molding. That'd be like four waterproof barriers, which is 2-3 times the factory amount.
 

Rocket Man

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If anyone recalls my roof leak near the rear/pass vents... It's back. Sigh

Need to find a better way to plug off the holes from roof rack removal. I had some butyl rubber around there for a while and it held up until we saw a couple freeze/that cycles. If anyone has ideas I'm all ears.

View attachment 239887
Welder.
 

Tonyrodz

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Sooo... Apparently even the roof rack holes in the NBS aren't blind. Or maybe it's leaking where the nutsert meets the sheet metal?

What do you have now, removed rack and put screws back in with some butyl under them or something else?

I just put a layer of RTV under the heads of mine then screwed them back in. We don't get many freezes here and it's only been a few months, though. For my final stage of that project, I plan to use hex socket head set screws with thread sealant, screw them down so they're recessed about an 1/8" then cover them with windshield adhesive. For good measure, I'll smear a layer of the windshield adhesive around the edge of the flange of the nutsert where it meets the sheet metal. Then I'll cover the whole line of mounting holes on each side with low-profile body-colored molding. That'd be like four waterproof barriers, which is 2-3 times the factory amount.
Took my rack off and I just put the bolts back in the holes without any sealant. No leaks.
 

ks03

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I installed - uxcell M6x16mm Stainless Steel Cone Point Hexagon Socket Grub Screws 25pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FYDB664/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_hJmoEb4N5KHC5
With a generous amount of loctite as a threadsealer. If I ever get a leak, my thought is to paint the inserts with touch up paint, hopefully sealing them to the body and possibly making them less noticeable.
 

1992rs

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If anyone recalls my roof leak near the rear/pass vents... It's back. Sigh

Need to find a better way to plug off the holes from roof rack removal. I had some butyl rubber around there for a while and it held up until we saw a couple freeze/that cycles. If anyone has ideas I'm all ears.

View attachment 239887
Stainless set screws recessed in a little bit, Teflon tape, little bit of rtv for redundancy. No leaks for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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