2002 Custom Wheels Fit

[OR VietVet]

According to factory spec my alloy wheels are 7" wide at the beads, 16" diameter with a 31mm positive offset, meaning the wheel sets more inward from centerline when mounted to the flange.

The custom wheels I am thinking of is 8" wide at the beads and is 16" diameter with "0" offset meaning the wheel will stick out approx 1 1/4" further from flange mount.

To anyone's knowledge will the offset and wheel width difference cause a rub problem?

Forgot to say that the factory tire size is 265/70R-16. I think the 4.8L engine took a slightly narrower wheel. I think that tire size was 245/70R-16.

 

[Tonyrodz]

According to factory spec my alloy wheels are 7" wide at the beads, 16" diameter with a 31mm positive offset, meaning the wheel sets more inward from centerline when mounted to the flange.

The custom wheels I am thinking of is 8" wide at the beads and is 16" diameter with "0" offset meaning the wheel will stick out approx 1 1/4" further from flange mount.

To anyone's knowledge will the offset and wheel width difference cause a rub problem?

Forgot to say that the factory tire size is 265/70R-16. I think the 4.8L engine took a slightly narrower wheel. I think that tire size was 245/70R-16.

Not sure about your question, but my 03 Tahoe, originally a 4.8, came with the 265 70 16's.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

According to factory spec my alloy wheels are 7" wide at the beads, 16" diameter with a 31mm positive offset, meaning the wheel sets more inward from centerline when mounted to the flange.

The custom wheels I am thinking of is 8" wide at the beads and is 16" diameter with "0" offset meaning the wheel will stick out approx 1 1/4" further from flange mount.

To anyone's knowledge will the offset and wheel width difference cause a rub problem?

Forgot to say that the factory tire size is 265/70R-16. I think the 4.8L engine took a slightly narrower wheel. I think that tire size was 245/70R-16.

When you push your offset out, you are widening the arc of your wheels when turning.

Turn your wheel to the right to the point where the corner of your tire is closest to the bottom the the fender/wheel well and measure how much it clears by. Then imagine the tire is 31mm farther out perpendicular to the wheel face and look at the arc. You should be able to get an idea of how close you're cutting it.

 

[iamdub]

According to factory spec my alloy wheels are 7" wide at the beads, 16" diameter with a 31mm positive offset, meaning the wheel sets more inward from centerline when mounted to the flange.

The custom wheels I am thinking of is 8" wide at the beads and is 16" diameter with "0" offset meaning the wheel will stick out approx 1 1/4" further from flange mount.

To anyone's knowledge will the offset and wheel width difference cause a rub problem?

Forgot to say that the factory tire size is 265/70R-16. I think the 4.8L engine took a slightly narrower wheel. I think that tire size was 245/70R-16.

I calculated the wheel to be about 1.5" further out.
Here's what I have to offer: My brother's truck is an '05 Sierra, so it has the same front end setup as your Tahoe. His factory tire size is 265/70-17, which is 1" taller than your 265/70-16. I put 1.5" spacers on his wheels and lifted the front about an inch. The very far edge of the tire's shoulder lightly rubbed the air dam, so I did some minor trimming that probably no one would notice. Lets keep in mind that his tires are brand-new all-terrains with some decent tread lugs on the shoulders and sidewalls.

Comparing your truck to his (minus the tiny lift aspect), with your tire being 1" shorter overall, you already have a 1/2" more clearance. If your tires are a little worn or are not as aggressive, then you should be even more in the clear.

Really, what it comes down to is that you won't know until you bolt 'em on and turn the wheel. If there is any rubbing, it'll be very minor and easily remedied.

 

[OR VietVet]

I still will check the clearance as suggested but I thought maybe someone might have already did the same wheel change and knew for sure. The check for clearance is all well and good but I was also concerned about clearance when the front is jouncing over a bump during the full arc of the turn and different areas of the tire being closer or farther from bumper edge, body and frame and linkages. I will do the inspection though for sure.

 

[iamdub]

The entire face being out 1.5" further than before is the same regardless if it's with a stock wheel and 1.5" spacer or 1.5" netted from lesser negative offset and wider wheel. Turn the wheel so that the farthest point of the tire's shoulder is closest to the vertical edge of the bumper cover. If it's too close to eyeball, leave the wheel turned and jack up the front end. Watch the closest points and see if they ever get too close for comfort. A wheel doesn't move just straight up and down as the suspension cycles, it moves backward a hair as it goes up then back forward as it goes down.

Even if someone else had the same wheel and advertised tire measurements, the actual dimensions of the tire vary from brand to brand and style to style, even among the same brand. I believe you'll have minimal, if any, clearance issues. Don't forget to post before and after pics!

 

[OR VietVet]

The before pic is now my pic. The after pics will be after this Monday. I am getting the new wheels in the afternoon then.

 

[Rocket Man]

I don’t think they will fit up inside your wheel wells so this will depend on if you’re lowered, stock height, or lifted. If you’re lowered I think you might have issues.

 

[OR VietVet]

Stock height.

 

[Rocket Man]

Stock height.

Probably ok then.