What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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R3cord303

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it;s the LFA 6.0 Hybrid Vortec 0.34 coefficient drag..


you will gain more power by Deleting NNBS 1.0v :eek: and upgrading to NNBS revision version 2.0

the NNBS beta edition has 0.37 coefficient drag....


even with auto stop & hybrid mode disabled (M mode 4 speed auto) NNBS Rev 2.0 still get 16,5 MPG with 6.0 that is 200% of what a typical truck gets with the 6.0L L76 (city mpgs)..


if your lookimh for better track times that is what you want to do is lower the coefficient drag..

you will have less wind resistance.. with less wind resistance you will have much more available power
that is why dyno reading are pretty useless in the real world and on the road if you have a Aerodynamic drag issue...
Homie- areo doesn’t matter for quarter mile times. I mean it sort of does, but really it doesn’t. Its low on the priority list is what I’m trying to say. If all you’re doing is going for 1/4 mile times, take a look at thing. It used to be a corvette, and is a multiple time world record holder for the fastest stickshift GM vehicle in the quarter mile (on mobile. Image at the top of post). It was the first stickshift GM into the 7 second range. Areo for drag racing when you get into Promods and Funny car stuff does start to matter then, yes. But not for our class of vehicle. Yes, areo on our vehicles DOES matter for highway fuel economy, but not in the city. Why does it not matter in the city? Because wind resistance doesn’t start to take effect until above 45 miles per hour.

I have no idea what you’re on about when it comes to NNBS 1.0 vs 2.0. I’d happily take a VortecMax over a two mode hybrid simply because the battery management system of the hybrids, based on what I’ve read, leads me to believe that it beats the hell out of the battery packs. Its also a bear to try and tune from what I hear.
 

the_tool_man

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View attachment 229593 Homie- areo doesn’t matter for quarter mile times. I mean it sort of does, but really it doesn’t. Its low on the priority list is what I’m trying to say. If all you’re doing is going for 1/4 mile times, take a look at thing. It used to be a corvette, and is a multiple time world record holder for the fastest stickshift GM vehicle in the quarter mile (on mobile. Image at the top of post). It was the first stickshift GM into the 7 second range. Areo for drag racing when you get into Promods and Funny car stuff does start to matter then, yes. But not for our class of vehicle. Yes, areo on our vehicles DOES matter for highway fuel economy, but not in the city. Why does it not matter in the city? Because wind resistance doesn’t start to take effect until above 45 miles per hour.

I have no idea what you’re on about when it comes to NNBS 1.0 vs 2.0. I’d happily take a VortecMax over a two mode hybrid simply because the battery management system of the hybrids, based on what I’ve read, leads me to believe that it beats the hell out of the battery packs. Its also a bear to try and tune from what I hear.
Cleetus! I love his channel.

That car is known as "Leroy". It's still a Corvette. It just doesn't have bodywork any more (it was already like that when they bought it).

They visited a wind tunnel to analyze the drag and experiment with fixes. Ultimately, they found a few things that helped aero and downforce. But the added weight, or other issues (cooling, complexity, etc.) nullified any speed increase for a quarter-mile drag car. Over longer distances, or for a highway vehicle that maintains speeds above 40-45mph, the decision probably would have been different.

Incidentally, the car is HEAVIER than a stock 'vette, because of the safety cage necessary to drag race without bodywork. The point of the car, I think, is that the aero and weight penalties can be overcome with enough power (and a bit of hooliganism).
 

R3cord303

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Cleetus! I love his channel.

That car is known as "Leroy". It's still a Corvette. It just doesn't have bodywork any more (it was already like that when they bought it).

They visited a wind tunnel to analyze the drag and experiment with fixes. Ultimately, they found a few things that helped aero and downforce. But the added weight, or other issues (cooling, complexity, etc.) nullified any speed increase for a quarter-mile drag car. Over longer distances, or for a highway vehicle that maintains speeds above 40-45mph, the decision probably would have been different.

Incidentally, the car is HEAVIER than a stock 'vette, because of the safety cage necessary to drag race without bodywork. The point of the car, I think, is that the aero and weight penalties can be overcome with enough power (and a bit of hooliganism).
yeah i follow the channel- more so the fasterproms channel than the cleetus channel but its all cool as hell. Thats part of the reason I bought a texas speed cam and dod delete kit instead of a comp kit.
 

07Burb

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yeah i follow the channel- more so the fasterproms channel than the cleetus channel but its all cool as hell. Thats part of the reason I bought a texas speed cam and dod delete kit instead of a comp kit.
I like both of those channels as they kind of hit a different audience. Cleetus is cool because they build all their own stuff and you see them get better via trial and error. Fasterproms is cool in a different way. He gives you a lot of detailed info as other people do the builds. Both channels have super cool people on it that seem to be down to earth and real.
 

R3cord303

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I like both of those channels as they kind of hit a different audience. Cleetus is cool because they build all their own stuff and you see them get better via trial and error. Fasterproms is cool in a different way. He gives you a lot of detailed info as other people do the builds. Both channels have super cool people on it that seem to be down to earth and real.
I really like their crew. I fell off the bandwagon midway through last school year. Just last night though I was watching their video that showed the night they got the 7.82 pass on the hurt motor. I didn’t realise that ‘full send’ on their engine setup was ‘only’ 28 pounds of boost.
 

07Burb

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I really like their crew. I fell off the bandwagon midway through last school year. Just last night though I was watching their video that showed the night they got the 7.82 pass on the hurt motor. I didn’t realise that ‘full send’ on their engine setup was ‘only’ 28 pounds of boost.
Yep. I like them only because they build and break their own stuff and it's real. I hate all the fake stuff or people who just have other build their rides and run them. I also watch the Tavarish channel because he does a lot of his own work too and I learn from him even though he's building stuff that I'll never own (lambo, bentley, ferrari,....)
 

Fless

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GMT800 T case is a NVG149. No electronics in it either. Bulletproof.


True for your Denali, Mark, it has the NVG149 (AWD viscous coupling). And you should know, having had it out and back in a few times. I may be understating that!

The Tahoe Auto 4WD has the NVG246 (around 80 lbs dry) with the clutch pack. The front prop shaft is always spinning a little with the clutch pack somewhat engaged, but the front diff is not actuated until rear wheel slip is detected.
 

08grey

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Getting ready to take her on another little road trip this weekend to pick up the new pup :)
Im looking for a new home for my 7 month old beabull puppy. She is too much for us.

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk
 

Derick

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Took my burb to the mechanic. Getting a whining noise when it's in gear and varies with rpm, so it's not a motor issue. Hoping it's the torque convertor, as it's under warranty.

Also filled up the gas tank. Fuel was like 2.18 with my discount card, and the burb ain't seen the needle on F in probably 8 months :/
 

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