New (to me) 2012 Suburban LTZ

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arctictwist

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Just picked up a 2012 LTZ burb in black. Looking to get it lifted pretty quick. Looks like my best option is the fabtech since its made to work with the autoride. Question, it says i may have driveline vibration, and they have a cv kit for it. Is it common to need it? Im hoping not, since thats another 1k, unless you know of better options?

Once i get start ill be posting a mod thread. For now, anything i need to look out for on this? its got 94k on it. Thanks

Ken

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Doubeleive

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Just picked up a 2012 LTZ burb in black. Looking to get it lifted pretty quick. Looks like my best option is the fabtech since its made to work with the autoride. Question, it says i may have driveline vibration, and they have a cv kit for it. Is it common to need it? Im hoping not, since thats another 1k, unless you know of better options?

Once i get start ill be posting a mod thread. For now, anything i need to look out for on this? its got 94k on it. Thanks

Ken

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@94k flush everything unless you have proof it was already done, take a good hard look at your shocks front and rear many will take a dump at 80-100k if they are air shocks in the rear check to be sure they hold air and the pump is working properly, change plugs & wires, inspect your other front suspension components tie rods, sway end links and bushings, wheel hubs.
 
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arctictwist

arctictwist

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@94k flush everything unless you have proof it was already done, take a good hard look at your shocks front and rear many will take a dump at 80-100k if they are air shocks in the rear check to be sure they hold air and the pump is working properly, change plugs & wires, inspect your other front suspension components tie rods, sway end links and bushings, wheel hubs.
Well i know they did the brake fluid. But ill have to check on the rest. Ill get into that other stuff asap! thanks.
 

01Konvict

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Just picked up a 2012 LTZ burb in black. Looking to get it lifted pretty quick. Looks like my best option is the fabtech since its made to work with the autoride. Question, it says i may have driveline vibration, and they have a cv kit for it. Is it common to need it? Im hoping not, since thats another 1k, unless you know of better options?

Once i get start ill be posting a mod thread. For now, anything i need to look out for on this? its got 94k on it. Thanks

Ken

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I would advise against the fabtech kit. I have it and other do too. All ended with rear driveline vibrations. If you want a good kit then take a look at mcgaughys 7-9”. Otherwise bulletproof 6-8” with pro comp trailing arm drop brackets.
 
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arctictwist

arctictwist

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I would advise against the fabtech kit. I have it and other do too. All ended with rear driveline vibrations. If you want a good kit then take a look at mcgaughys 7-9”. Otherwise bulletproof 6-8” with pro comp trailing arm drop brackets.
Yea i did a lot of searching and saw your comments specifically on the fabtech. With the mcguaghys kit, they include struts, do i just not use the magnaride struts?
 
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01Konvict

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Yea i did a lot of searching and saw your comments specifically on the fabtech. With the mcguaghys kit, they include struts, do i just not use the magnaride struts?

They send brackets to bolt on stock shocks to make it work with the lift. My only downside with this lift is same as mine which increases track width. That reduces turning radius and makes the steering much more sensitive. This is the main reason I like the bulletproof kit minus the lack of rear end drop brackets. You get used to it after a while. Wheel spacers and sway bars help tighten the driving back to normal. Any lift will work with mangetic ride as long as it retains stock shocks with brackets. Just make longer ride height sensor rods and some air line rework if yours has auto leveling shocks. Personally I would even do the BDS with coilovers and get a bypass kit for the magnetic ride.
 
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arctictwist

arctictwist

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They send brackets to bolt on stock shocks to make it work with the lift. My only downside with this lift is same as mine which increases track width. That reduces turning radius and makes the steering much more sensitive. This is the main reason I like the bulletproof kit minus the lack of rear end drop brackets. You get used to it after a while. Wheel spacers and sway bars help tighten the driving back to normal. Any lift will work with mangetic ride as long as it retains stock shocks with brackets. Just make longer ride height sensor rods and some air line rework if yours has auto leveling shocks. Personally I would even do the BDS with coilovers and get a bypass kit for the magnetic ride.
The track width is my issue at the moment. Trying to figure out what backspacing my wheels need to be on a 20x9 with 35x12.5 . I dont mind a slightly more aggressive stance but i dont want it too extreme.
 

01Konvict

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The track width is my issue at the moment. Trying to figure out what backspacing my wheels need to be on a 20x9 with 35x12.5 . I dont mind a slightly more aggressive stance but i dont want it too extreme.

Well with that wheel any 6” will clear even with kits that increase track width. In my opinion I would do bulletproof with pro comp brackets and coilovers. Then get some 22x10 on 35s. That would be the best option!
 
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