NORCAL SS Kit info/tech on how to level the rear of a 2015 up GM SUV

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fiatdale

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Just curious , say stock ride quality is rated 10/10. What would you rate yours with the 2" rear kit. Mine was just installed and honestly I'd give mine now a 6/10.... it changed the ride drastically. My wife isn't going to be happy as it's her daily. Looks killer tho, did I do something wrong or am I just getting old?


Honestly ours remained 10/10. Noticed zero difference.
 

BigDaddyOC

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if all you did was level it I can't imagine it really being noticeable. Unless...something wasn't done right. I've leveled a few trucks and SUV's, both up and down, and never noticed. its not until you go beyond a 1/3 really that you really start to notice anything in my experience. Bigger wheels make a bigger change in my opinion
 

blow

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if all you did was level it I can't imagine it really being noticeable. Unless...something wasn't done right. I've leveled a few trucks and SUV's, both up and down, and never noticed. its not until you go beyond a 1/3 really that you really start to notice anything in my experience. Bigger wheels make a bigger change in my opinion
Would it ride bad with 26's?
 

Kyle Robbins

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Honestly ours remained 10/10. Noticed zero difference.


That's Crazy, i think we may have figured it out... with no air in the shocks i got a total of 2 9/16" drop... from 37 9/16" to 35". So i have to adjust the air shocks to gain up 1 1/4" to make it ride level ( i want mine at 36 1/4 in the back) I ordered the 2" spacers taking the 1" that came with the kit out. This will make me only have to ad 1/4" worth of air in the shocks to get it to 36 1/4". I think the air shocks just have too much air in them and its making it ride stiff. I will do the swap and chime back in.

Just a heads up, not that its needed because he is well known but NorcalSS communication and customer service is awesome. Top notch in my book and thats hard to find now a days.
 

Dearmosd

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Well I finally got around to installing the kit...well just got around to the rear. Really considering the newer adjustable front shocks from Norcal and not install the front spindles. Here is a before and after pic. I used the 1" spacer, stock upper rubber mount and I got less than 2". Not I did use the newer sensor rods at the instructed 3" spacing but I also made marks of the stock sensor positions and after install the marks are a fraction of, maybe 1/8" so the air shocks could be holding a little more than before install

Before: 37 5/8"
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZoCJdSjKK6P-DJaxT1Y6rTwRc_BBpKtU
view


After: 36"
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-6FUdiOwE4yWNXzpXIkVz4lu28y-K5k3


well I guess I dont know how to post pics on this site
 
Last edited:

Dearmosd

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I am happy so far without any adjustments to the sensor rods. I would shooting for a 1" rake but I am happy with level. Oddly enough driver side rear was 36"/passenger side rear 36 1/8-1/4", Driver side front 36 1/8-1/4", passenger front 36"

The eye cant see the fractions but....
 

Dearmosd

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only question I have right now is the additional sound I hear now from the rear. It doesnt sound like metal squeaking but I figure out if its rubber or air wooshing from the air shocks sound. I am using the stock sway bar and using the 1" spacer only with stock top rubber mount.

Anyone else using the 1" spacer and stock sway bar have any extra sound from the rear when going over bumps?


Also rechecked my sensor rod and it seems now be setting in the OEM location and I dont hear the pump running at all so I dont think the sensor rods are not int he proper length.
 

CMoore711

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Anyone else using the 1" spacer and stock sway bar have any extra sound from the rear when going over bumps?

Same rear set up on my ‘15 Yukon XL Denali and no odd rear end noises here.
 

Dearmosd

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Only thing I can think of is when I placed the top rubber mount on it wasnt in the exact same groove as the stock spring was but figured the rubber would settle and conform to the new spring. Maybe when the second ring pushes up and makes contact with the rubber I hear a rubber squeak? IDK

Just dont like rolling through the neighborhood making noise like that....makes me feel cheap
 

Akinshake

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So I’ve got the springs and spacers installed, but my question is in regards to the links. From what I’ve gathered, 3-11/16” is the distance from the shoulder to the other shoulder of the end links. But the new rods are about the same length as factory. So what’s the rough length to start with and how do I take the end links off the factory rod? They just spin and spin so they aren’t threaded, I assume. Thanks
image.jpg
 

Dearmosd

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They shouldn't be same length. You will have to pull the end caps off. Yes they spin but will pop off. The new rods should be about 1/4 shorted easy. From center cup to cup should be about 3" with new rod. I ended up a little shorter when using the plastic 2" spacer instead of the factory rubber piece.
 
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NORCAL SS

NORCAL SS

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i think we spoke on the phone yesterday and your good now?
 

Godzuki86

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So I just got my kit in the mail for my ‘16 Yukon. I want the rear lowered ~3” in the rear.

If I install the isolators on the axle and the supplied springs and links, how much will this drop the truck?
 

TyFeeback

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Being a dealer for Belltech/DJM/Mcgauhys/Eibach/Matrix I tested them all on the 15 ups and tested which one works best and the 5305 belltech springs by far are the winnners. This customer came to me today so I just wanted to show how simple it is to lower the rear. Hearing shops charging 2 hours to do this is a rip off. NOTE THIS IS FOR A AUTORIDE TRUCK INSTALL

KIT FOR AUTORIDE IS 250 SHIPPED AND 1.75- 4 ADJUSTABLE
https://tbssowners.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=578

KIT FOR NON AUTORIDE IS 275 SHIPPED and adjsutable 2-3 inches


Lets get onto the install.

1) Jack truck up and put jackstands on both sides in front of lower a arm frame brackets
View attachment 169627

2) Next pop open the clip that holds the abs lines on the frame and make sure they hang freely
View attachment 169628

3) Pull out oem bumpstop and instert new shorter bumpstop
View attachment 169629

4) AUTORIDE ONLY --- Next pop off autoride links on upper a arms and replace with the rod that is included with my kit. Due to different spring rates on the front of the these trucks my rods are longer so you can adjust the rear not to sit lower than the front.
View attachment 169630

5) Place a floor jack under the rear end and pump it up just enough to release tenstion on the shocks
View attachment 169631

6) Remove the brake line bracket on diff. If you do not do this when you go to release rear end it will snap the brake line
View attachment 169632

7) Remove shock from oem bracket and install shock extenders but do not bolt shock back yet
View attachment 169633

8) Unloosen endlinks on both sides and remove from bar. I usually put the bolts on ends to keep work area cleaner
View attachment 169634

9) Now SLOWLY release floor jack to let rear end down. Making sure the ABS lines and the brake line bracket on the axle are free to move around

10) The spring you will be able to pull right out. Then you put the new springs in WITH CLOSER COILS FACING UPWARDS and the 1 inch spacer goes on the axle
View attachment 169635


11) The top coil will have a insulator and this pic shows whats under the insulator. MAKE SURE THE INSULATOR SITS CORRECTLY ON THIS LIP AND THE INSIDE OF THE TOP COIL SHOULD WRAP THE OUTSIDE OF THIS LIP. I usually jack up the rear end while guiding it in
View attachment 169636

12) Once you jack up rear end tighten shocks to shock extenders
View attachment 169637

13) Pop on the abs lines back into the frame clip
View attachment 169638

14) Bolt the brake bracket to the top of the rear end
View attachment 169639


15) Put tires back onto truck drop it down and drive around the block. On my kit I will update all info on how to dial in ride height in rear.


Any questions guys feel free to pm me on here or reply. I'm around 24/7 for support


I tried to click on the link for the kit but takes me to tbss site, no luck finding kit
 

Dearmosd

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Tony I noticed your website has the lowering kit supplied with Belltech 5305 coils. My kit came with 5301 coil. What would be the difference?
 

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