What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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I finally ordered and got the helper bags installed in the rear of the Burb.

I also realized that the bracket on the axle for the panhard bar was hitting the crossmember above it when I would hit a dip in the road.
View attachment 201073
View attachment 201074

I knew something was hitting but assumed it was bottoming out the axle bumpstops on the frame.

So I trimmed the bracket
View attachment 201075
and notched the crossmember for clearance.
View attachment 201076
And installed the helper bags.

No more bumping and banging over dips.

Watch the corners of those cuts for cracking. You would probably only have a problem if you did some spirited driving, especially through corners. But I'd still inspect it ever so often, like during an oil change.
 

Drok

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C4E376EF-4FEB-4126-B281-4EE3A370B585.jpeg

Night light pic. Leds ftw. The interior ones are 6000k through 35% tint front and whatever factory tint is in the rear
 

kbuskill

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I had contemplated going back up a little bit, maybe 3/5, because of the bottoming out over dips and the fact that the rear would bounce really bad over some bridges...but notching the crossmember and adding the bags seems to have fixed those issues.

There is a particular bridge in town that when you go over it there is a long low flat section of the bridge before you reach solid ground. It is concrete and every section they poured seems to be low in the middle so you get a rapid up and down motion. Everytime I go over it, it causes the rear end to start hopping up and down like an old hoopty with worn out shocks.

Basically the rear springs were too soft for my liking. It may not be as bad on the Tahoe but the Burb is a big girl and I didn't like all the bouncing.

I started off with 15psi in the helper bags and it didn't bottom over dips but seemed a little too stiff so I backed it down to 10 psi to see how that goes... so far so good but the real test will be that bridge.

Truth be told... it may not bottom out anymore since notching the crossmember... I may have to dump all the air and go for a ride and see if that solved the issue... but I still like the bags to firm it up.

I will try to remember to post my results after a few tests.

For the record, I plumbed them separately instead of teeing them together.

So with 10 psi in the bags the truck doesn't bounce nearly as bad over the bridge that I mentioned earlier. And there is no more banging/bottoming out in the rear since notching the crossmember.

I may bump the pressure up to 12-15 psi and see how she does on the bridge again later.

I wish that bridge wasn't on the other side of town... it would be easier to do my testing.
 

Doubeleive

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So the one crack in my dash is right at the center speaker mount, I noticed that it shakes a lot on bumpy roads so I figured maybe there was no support under it, sure enough just a big space underneath so I put some foam pad under it hopefully that will stop the shakes and keep it from breaking anymore.

IMG_20180608_173057.jpg
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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So the one crack in my dash is right at the center speaker mount, I noticed that it shakes a lot on bumpy roads so I figured maybe there was no support under it, sure enough just a big space underneath so I put some foam pad under it hopefully that will stop the shakes and keep it from breaking anymore.

View attachment 201157
That helped a lot, doesn't shake anymore, probably what made it crack to begin with.
 

Rocket Man

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We can have blue here as long as its for off road use. But if used on the road yea thats a big no go.
Well yeah off road is obviously different but those are your corner lights which aren't on a switch correct? And it you're at a show or something, you can have anything you want. But you have to be able to turn them off when you hit the road.
 

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