I seem to have a coolant leak.

[OR VietVet]

Unless, for some weird reason, the current pump is so off the wall and has no weep hole, that weep hole is there to see. You can get a flexible mechanic's mirror and a flashlight and see the bottom of the pump from up top. Did you use a flashlight from the bottom? I bet the weep hole is there and source of the leak.

 

[TURNz]

Pump is off. It got too dark to work.

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[OR VietVet]

Make sure to replace the thermostat when you go back together.

 

[TURNz]

Yep, I bought the matching t-stat.

The water pump bolt are ugly. They've got crud on the threads that weren't used. I left them soaking in some fogging oil to try to loosen that up.

I also need to find the torque specs. The one video I watched listed them, but I want to double check.

 

[OR VietVet]

Would be a good idea to "slowly" chase the threads in the holes before reinstalling the bolts and spray some cleaner in there.

 

[TURNz]

Since i cant finish the project until Friday, so I've got some questions to get out of the way.

1. Refill. I'm thinking I should use a funnel and fill the radiator through the upper hose and maybe the pump through the hose neck. It seems inefficient to just fill the over flow again and again. What have you done?
2. Dry gaskets, or rtv?
3. Thermostat o ring, any sealer or just dry?
4. Anti seize on the bolts?

Any other special tips?

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[ScottyBoy]

Would be a good idea to "slowly" chase the threads in the holes before reinstalling the bolts and spray some cleaner in there.

I clean the bolt holes with a wire brush whenever I replace something like a water pump. I did the same on my rear differential. I bought a pack of spiral wire brushes from Harbor Freight and I use those to clean up the threads on the bolt holes. I use some by hand but I also take a few and snip them in the middle of the "handle" with a pair of wire cutters and I then put the brush in a drill. A few spins with a drill and the bolt holes are all completely clean in about 5 seconds.

 

[OR VietVet]

Good idea and hopefully you blow the holes out after you do the brush cleaning.

 

[ScottyBoy]

Good idea and hopefully you blow the holes out after you do the brush cleaning.

Yes, I forgot to mention that. But that should be a given that you need to blow the holes out with compressed air. If there is any rust or corrosion on the threads, I spray a bit of WD-40 in the hole before I hit it with the wire brush. Then I blow it out with air, and I hold a shop rag over the area so it doesn't blast dirty WD-40 everywhere, most of it gets caught in the rag.

 

[TURNz]

Pump is on and there doesn't seem to be any leaks.
Though temp was at 201f and the new t stat is supposed to be 187f.

I'm going to have to go through more heating cycles to make sure the air is out. But would that cause this?

As i reassembled, i filled the radiator, and some into the pump through the upper hose fitting. I filled the expansion tank and when it drained into the system filled again. I ran the motor for just a couple minutes and filled the expansion again.

Ambient temp is 65f.


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[OR VietVet]

Drive it and check the coolant level. Drive it and check the coolant level. Drive it and check the coolant level........Repeat!

 

[TURNz]

Drive it and check the coolant level. Drive it and check the coolant level. Drive it and check the coolant level........Repeat!

that's been my plan so far. Though i get so nervous about opening the cap before its cooled off. I saw a guy get sprayed with coolant before. So i always wait until it's down to 140f or so. Which can take a while.
I'm off work today, and i need the tahoe all day tomorrow.
So hopefully I'll get a few drive and check cycles in.

Is there a way to tell if the stat is opening or not?

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[OR VietVet]

If your gauge looks good and you are getting heat inside, the stat is doing it's job. Plus, if you had a laser thermometer you could point and click, so to speak. Always let the coolant cool down and that helps air pockets escape.

 

[mattt]

I'm going to be replacing a water pump soon here. I may change to a different coolant instead of Dexcool. Does the 5.3 block have drain plugs like previous generation SBC and BBC's? I'd like to drain the block during the swap, even if I don't change coolant type. 266k miles could have built up crap in the block water jackets. Thanks in advance.