Thinking of Buying a 00-06 NBS Tahoe/Suburban? Look Here

[VikingTrad3r]

id ask for compression test and see results on paper. and a cooling sustem pressure test. thats all. the rest you can deal with if you need to.

 

[00YukonSLT5.3Rwd]

Knock sensors and intake gaskets common, fuel pumps are common, and let's not forget the wonderful cold start knock. Tune ups are a breeze, and they can take a hit. Had to replace my previous one when I was hit at a dead stop by someone in a Nissan Rogue doing 70mph. Folded the frame under in the rear and fused the doors shut but kept my passenger and I safe.

 

[Stick]

I have a 2000 Denali and i see that isn't on this list so here's my input:

5.7l. and was the last of the good ol 350's. If feeding it isn't an issue to you then all's good. That or buy newer with the 6.0l. I'm not sure that the 5.3 (327 *325 actually*) is enough of a power plant for these things if you intended on using it to tow very often. The 5.3 is obviously not quite as concerned about not having gas station in sight at least.

Now for the dirt. Not a lot that hasn't already been spoken of here...
Spider injector. This is a major setback and it shreds a lot more than itself when failing resulting in extensive carbon build up on everything. Just an awful mess.This model year was the last of them though i do believe. Not terribly difficult to replace but expensive.
Headlights. As with most older plastic lenses these are punished.
Given the age of the vehicle as it sits now, I'd have to say it's outstanding really. I could list off repairs that have been done but none would be too far outside of upkeep maintenance. Aside from the engine swap that is, but that's partially due to an error on my part and the fact that the prior owner treated it like total sheet. It was a monumental task just trying to clean and rid the interior of the smell of a long, long ago left behind and expired double double coffee before it was parked (that injector) for a year before I acquired it.
Anyway, I'm drifting off topic but just thought I'd share my experience thus far.

*Edit* Oh, and trying to properly source out replacement items is ridiculous, it's more like a 99.5 that fell through the cracks. Mismatched stereo components and essentially the leftovers from models past and occasional odd looks from parts stores. Anyway, my fix for that is i look for 99 related items instead.

 

[bayareadude84]

I have a 2000 Denali and i see that isn't on this list so here's my input:

5.7l. and was the last of the good ol 350's. If feeding it isn't an issue to you then all's good. That or buy newer with the 6.0l. I'm not sure that the 5.3 (327 *325 actually*) is enough of a power plant for these things if you intended on using it to tow very often. The 5.3 is obviously not quite as concerned about not having gas station in sight at least.

Now for the dirt. Not a lot that hasn't already been spoken of here...
Spider injector. This is a major setback and it shreds a lot more than itself when failing resulting in extensive carbon build up on everything. Just an awful mess.This model year was the last of them though i do believe. Not terribly difficult to replace but expensive.
Headlights. As with most older plastic lenses these are punished.
Given the age of the vehicle as it sits now, I'd have to say it's outstanding really. I could list off repairs that have been done but none would be too far outside of upkeep maintenance. Aside from the engine swap that is, but that's partially due to an error on my part and the fact that the prior owner treated it like total sheet. It was a monumental task just trying to clean and rid the interior of the smell of a long, long ago left behind and expired double double coffee before it was parked (that injector) for a year before I acquired it.
Anyway, I'm drifting off topic but just thought I'd share my experience thus far.

*Edit* Oh, and trying to properly source out replacement items is ridiculous, it's more like a 99.5 that fell through the cracks. Mismatched stereo components and essentially the leftovers from models past and occasional odd looks from parts stores. Anyway, my fix for that is i look for 99 related items instead.

Not to be a ****, But you have a GMT400 92-99 style. This thread is for the GMT800 '00-06 NBS trucks.

 

[bayareadude84]

Knock sensors and intake gaskets common, fuel pumps are common, and let's not forget the wonderful cold start knock. Tune ups are a breeze, and they can take a hit. Had to replace my previous one when I was hit at a dead stop by someone in a Nissan Rogue doing 70mph. Folded the frame under in the rear and fused the doors shut but kept my passenger and I safe.

Ughh those $^%! knock sensors. Have had 4 of the NBS GMT 800's Pickups and SUV's all have had over 200K miles and never needed the knocks sensors replaced. Now I just picked up a '01 Sierra 4.8 with 230K miles and a week after I bought the truck the $%@! code P0332 pops up, So now its time for knock sensors/harness and intake gaskets

 

[Stick]

Not to be a ****, But you have a GMT400 92-99 style. This thread is for the GMT800 '00-06 NBS trucks.

Ya, i realize that now. It's the 2000 thing i looked at. This truck i see is a pain in the ass as far as it's build date goes. Slapped together with all the spare parts from the 10 years prior. It almost doesn't exist Haha

 

[mikemc422]

So I'm looking to buy a Tahoe/Yukon (maybe a Suburban or Yukon XL, not sure yet, but no Escalades), and I read through all of this and only have 2 questions I didn't see answers to...
#1: are there any mileage-related issues (like BMW with cooling systems failing around 100k and TrailBlazer transmissions failing around 120-140k), especially ones that are large enough to avoid trucks with a certain amount of miles
#2: around how long do these trucks tend to last? If they usually last around 500k then I'd feel comfortable buying one with 230k with leather, barn doors (I don't like the regular hatch) and a sunroof for the same price as the base model with cloth seats and a regular trunk hatch with 150k...

I'm planning on buying one in February, but if I can find a good deal on a good truck before then I'll buy it, but I have my scion for a DD till the end of February... I can't wait to have a truck and no car payment again though...

 

[adventurenali92]

@commander strax , I'm doing some research for my rig and trying to figure out if my 2006 denali xl has castech heads. The photo you attached isn't showing up in this thread. Any chance you could repost that? Or shoot me some info on how to figure out if my rig has cast each heads or not?

 

[bayareadude84]

So I'm looking to buy a Tahoe/Yukon (maybe a Suburban or Yukon XL, not sure yet, but no Escalades), and I read through all of this and only have 2 questions I didn't see answers to...
#1: are there any mileage-related issues (like BMW with cooling systems failing around 100k and TrailBlazer transmissions failing around 120-140k), especially ones that are large enough to avoid trucks with a certain amount of miles
#2: around how long do these trucks tend to last? If they usually last around 500k then I'd feel comfortable buying one with 230k with leather, barn doors (I don't like the regular hatch) and a sunroof for the same price as the base model with cloth seats and a regular trunk hatch with 150k...

I'm planning on buying one in February, but if I can find a good deal on a good truck before then I'll buy it, but I have my scion for a DD till the end of February... I can't wait to have a truck and no car payment again though...

Mikemc422:

Have owned a mix of 00-01 Burbans and Silverado/Sierras Mix 4.8 and 5.3


At high mileage, I would keep an eye out on any Knock Sensors, Transmissions. Make sure no major engine leaks. These are the common and EXPENSIVE issues these trucks have.


But it's really HARD to say what can go out just based on mileage, It all depends on service/maintenance history of the vehicle. For example when I was working at a GM dealer last year. I sold a lady a new 2015 Suburban and she traded in a 2006 Suburban LT loaded up with only 118K miles, But guess what ?? it was POORLY maintained, Rear end making a noise, Transmission wouldn't shift into 3/4th gear, Engine was leaking everywhere. PW steering pump was badly leaking, interior was filthy.....ETC
Another example I'm into crown vic cop cars. Have had 5 of them in the past, Guess what the best driving and handling was a 2006 EX CHP unit with 200K miles !!! Night and day difference VS the 2010 I just sold with 95k miles.


Safe to say anything over 200K miles I would do some preventative maintenance. I would replace basic cheap stuff. Whenever I picked up one of these rigs in the past, I have done following


oil change and Flush Oil
Trans filter/gasket (If dark)
Rear Diff change
Serp and a/c belt
Air filter
Fuel Filter
Cabin Filter
Spark Plugs
Shocks
Brake Pads



#2

Most of us have seen or heard of these trucks going up to 500K, But I would say its pretty rare. I see a TON of these with 250-300K miles on craigslist/autotrader and most still run fine. But for me if I didn't buy it new or have FULL service history. I would sell em at 275-300K miles.

Hightest I ever had one of these was a '99 Sierra with the 4.8 and it was VERY VERY well maintained and sold at 300K miles and The truck still smoked tires !!!!!!

Some on here might disagree but with 300K miles+ I say you're rolling the dice


P.S Both my 00 and 01 Burbs came with barn doors and I love em !!!

 

[mikemc422]

Mikemc422:

Have owned a mix of 00-01 Burbans and Silverado/Sierras Mix 4.8 and 5.3


At high mileage, I would keep an eye out on any Knock Sensors, Transmissions. Make sure no major engine leaks. These are the common and EXPENSIVE issues these trucks have.


But it's really HARD to say what can go out just based on mileage, It all depends on service/maintenance history of the vehicle. For example when I was working at a GM dealer last year. I sold a lady a new 2015 Suburban and she traded in a 2006 Suburban LT loaded up with only 118K miles, But guess what ?? it was POORLY maintained, Rear end making a noise, Transmission wouldn't shift into 3/4th gear, Engine was leaking everywhere. PW steering pump was badly leaking, interior was filthy.....ETC
Another example I'm into crown vic cop cars. Have had 5 of them in the past, Guess what the best driving and handling was a 2006 EX CHP unit with 200K miles !!! Night and day difference VS the 2010 I just sold with 95k miles.


Safe to say anything over 200K miles I would do some preventative maintenance. I would replace basic cheap stuff. Whenever I picked up one of these rigs in the past, I have done following


oil change and Flush Oil
Trans filter/gasket (If dark)
Rear Diff change
Serp and a/c belt
Air filter
Fuel Filter
Cabin Filter
Spark Plugs
Shocks
Brake Pads



#2

Most of us have seen or heard of these trucks going up to 500K, But I would say its pretty rare. I see a TON of these with 250-300K miles on craigslist/autotrader and most still run fine. But for me if I didn't buy it new or have FULL service history. I would sell em at 275-300K miles.

Hightest I ever had one of these was a '99 Sierra with the 4.8 and it was VERY VERY well maintained and sold at 300K miles and The truck still smoked tires !!!!!!

Some on here might disagree but with 300K miles+ I say you're rolling the dice


P.S Both my 00 and 01 Burbs came with barn doors and I love em !!!

My aunt has had 3 Tahoes (an 01, an 05, and an 06) and she said she had the steering wheel was crooked (it was a theft recovery) and the a/c had a few issues pop up all at once on the 06 at 160k and the 05 was the only hatch and she hated it... the 01 she bought new and the others she bought at 140k and 145k, but other than that she had no complaints about any of them... I honestly hate the hatch too, my fathers expedition (1998, 5.4, bought new, 490k miles and it's still his dd) has had a lot of issues with it not opening and not staying up and not locking... same with my mothers Equinox... barn doors just have less to go wrong and they look better in my opinion...

As for the mileage, I think I'll try to find the lowest mileage truck I can find with a decent service history, and one that's an original FL truck (most FL vehicles will be rust free and almost all highway miles, not many people down here have a short commute or heavy city traffic)... the only option I'd want that I couldn't add would be a sunroof (aftermarket ones tend to leak) so if I could find one equipped with one I'll be happy. I'm not too worried about hitting 500k if I build the truck how I want (lower it, paint it, etc... just make it look and handle good) because if I like it enough to keep it I can just drop a crate 454 in it and do a 5 speed swap in a couple years when the engine blows, as long as the truck lasts me 100-150k or more with the engine/trans that's in it I'm good.