Rebuilding front suspension - how far to go

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TheAutumnWind

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I did the steering too- Pitman arm, tie rod ends, idler arm, idler arm bracket. Also upgraded the swaybar and end links and associated bushings. There's not much else to do after that. Mine was at 145k and I'd think you're due for steering components too; might as well get it all done at once, get it aligned once and be done with it. I also added a steering stabilizer at the same time, a KYB that was only about $45. Night and day difference after all that.

If you are doing all that then you might as well replace upper and lower control arms too.
 

Rocket Man

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Do you have a picture you can share? I'm interested in doing this.

I have the KYB one in the garage waiting for install. IIRC you only need to drill one new hole correct? A quick picture would be great!
Yes that's all I had to do was drill a second hole now that I remember it. Here's the only picture that I have. I found an ad for a KYB for a 2007 Yukon XL2500 so I don't see why it wouldn't work for any Yukon or Tahoe 07-14. I mean, it mounts to the crossmember and that's the same on all of them.
Edit: the hole without a bolt is the one that the skid plate mounts through. The bolt that's in is where I drilled the hole.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...VG6_1SfjvsUSLnGnzSt2CJPagCZ-ql7GcMaAmtf8P8HAQ

IMG_5004.JPG
 
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TheAutumnWind

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Yes that's all I had to do was drill a second hole now that I remember it. Here's the only picture that I have. I found an ad for a KYB for a 2007 Yukon XL2500 so I don't see why it wouldn't work for any Yukon or Tahoe 07-14. I mean, it mounts to the crossmember and that's the same on all of them.
Edit: the hole without a bolt is the one that the skid plate mounts through. The bolt that's in is where I drilled the hole.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...VG6_1SfjvsUSLnGnzSt2CJPagCZ-ql7GcMaAmtf8P8HAQ

View attachment 66238
Very helpful thank you!
 

CrashTestDummy

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The NNBS trucks have rack and pinion, not worm gear, center link, pitman or idler arms. Replace the upper and lower control arms, if you don't have the means to press the ball joints out, then the outboard tie rod ends, and inner tie rod ends, if you feel a lot of play. The inners are a bit more protected, so they may be okay.
 

puckhead

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Pretty easy for someone who already knows what he's doing---probably a 4 or 5 on a Difficulty Scale of 1-10. But for a guy like me, who doesn't have all the proper tools and has never done such a rebuild, it's pretty challenging---more like a 7.

I'm trying to plan it all out. I guess I'll decide whether to bite the bullet and try it on my own or bite the bullet and pay someone to do it. :confused:

Sounds like you and I are in the same boat! If you go through with it, take lots of pics! I will follow in your footsteps.
 
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08HoeCD

08HoeCD

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Sounds like you and I are in the same boat! If you go through with it, take lots of pics! I will follow in your footsteps.

I've watched a few YouTube videos. The work does not look technically difficult, but if you don't have the proper tools---air tools or impact wrenches, for example---it could be a bear to complete. My tools are limited to moderate-level hand tools, so I'm weighing investing a few hundred in impact wrench and other stuff vs saving funds over the next few months and having the job done by a paid pro. My suspension is not at a crisis level so I have time to make the decision-----but I'm thinking I will pay the money to a pro.
 

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