Please help!! Distributor problems..

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mtl111

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You only need to turn the oil pump drive IF the dist won't seat fully when you drop it in. Fix the ground , that has to be done anyway.

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Kenny D

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Your ground straps should connect frame to firewall and frame to back of passenger side head. At least that's where mine were.
 

east302

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Ok, so you're sure that you're at TDC on the compression and not exhaust?

Is your Passlock security light on or flashing on the instrument cluster? Any other DTC's?

I would go back and start with the basics. It is cranking but not starting, correct?

Have you done a fuel pressure test or tried to start it with starting fluid in the throttle body? Make sure you replace the air intake at that point as it needs the MAF sensor to start.

Fuel pressure test procedure for a 1998 5.7L...

E13D4713-C72E-474B-AC6C-7AEE6822E64C_zpszlegokay.gif

E2399BA8-E4B3-4989-940E-FC53DF627230_zps6wfzexhn.gif

E96418C6-EA42-466B-B20B-8EDF25CB2311_zps63qdlxpm.gif

7D963841-C9A8-4EC7-B024-7D4A75B28B3D_zpsgpgyq1ok.gif

0680E2E8-ED83-47DD-ADC7-79FB91D950F3_zpsa1eoxxd6.gif

8B78A02A-4D79-4B57-9314-D25840365876_zps8z5hays9.gif

Going back to the CMP retard offset on the distributor, it needs to be at 0* +/- 2* at 1000 to 1200 rpm. I doubt this is the cause of your issue, but when you get to that point it's fairly easy to fine tune. You can use a Bluetooth OBD connector (around $30) and either DashCommand or CarGauge Pro android apps to get this reading. DashCommand is around $10 plus the extended GM PIDs (another $10) with CarGauge Pro being about the same cost.




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96tsport

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Ok, so you're sure that you're at TDC on the compression and not exhaust?

Is your Passlock security light on or flashing on the instrument cluster? Any other DTC's?

I would go back and start with the basics. It is cranking but not starting, correct?

Have you done a fuel pressure test or tried to start it with starting fluid in the throttle body? Make sure you replace the air intake at that point as it needs the MAF sensor to start.

Fuel pressure test procedure for a 1998 5.7L...

E13D4713-C72E-474B-AC6C-7AEE6822E64C_zpszlegokay.gif

E2399BA8-E4B3-4989-940E-FC53DF627230_zps6wfzexhn.gif

E96418C6-EA42-466B-B20B-8EDF25CB2311_zps63qdlxpm.gif

7D963841-C9A8-4EC7-B024-7D4A75B28B3D_zpsgpgyq1ok.gif

0680E2E8-ED83-47DD-ADC7-79FB91D950F3_zpsa1eoxxd6.gif

8B78A02A-4D79-4B57-9314-D25840365876_zps8z5hays9.gif

Going back to the CMP retard offset on the distributor, it needs to be at 0* +/- 2* at 1000 to 1200 rpm. I doubt this is the cause of your issue, but when you get to that point it's fairly easy to fine tune. You can use a Bluetooth OBD connector (around $30) and either DashCommand or CarGauge Pro android apps to get this reading. DashCommand is around $10 plus the extended GM PIDs (another $10) with CarGauge Pro being about the same cost.




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I might take the b1 valve cover off just to be sure im at tdc compression on 1 but im sure i got it..yes it cranks but it wont even pop let alone start. I have tried starting fluid and still nothing. The passlock light is off along with all other dash lights. (The batterys been out for a while since its been sitting, but nothing new coming up on scanner now) i have not tested f/p yet i got to get the tool. I will try fixing ground strap today and pull dis to make sure everything is aligned once again and look for anything else until i get f/p tester.
 

east302

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With the starting fluid, does it start and then die or not start at all?




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96tsport

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With the starting fluid, does it start and then die or not start at all?




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No, no start at all and it isnt even popping. My plugs are dry so im thinkin maybe the spider assembly has problems but that still dosnet explain why it wouldnt do anything with starting fluid
 

east302

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If it won't start with starting fluid then that usually rules out a fuel delivery issue. You could probably disconnect the fuel lines at the intake or maybe the filter and see if fuel comes out when the starter is engaged, but that's a pain and mess all in one.

Are you hearing the fuel pump come on?

Did you use a tester to see if you have spark at all eight cylinders? If no spark at all, then it's going to be upstream...coil, ignition module, cap/rotor, crankshaft position sensor, etc.

Here's a good write up on testing those components...

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/ignition-misfire-diagnostic-tests-3



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96tsport

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If it won't start with starting fluid then that usually rules out a fuel delivery issue. You could probably disconnect the fuel lines at the intake or maybe the filter and see if fuel comes out when the starter is engaged, but that's a pain and mess all in one.

Are you hearing the fuel pump come on?

Did you use a tester to see if you have spark at all eight cylinders? If no spark at all, then it's going to be upstream...coil, ignition module, cap/rotor, crankshaft position sensor, etc.

Here's a good write up on testing those components...

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/ignition-misfire-diagnostic-tests-3



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Theres a test port for fuel right behind throttle body and im getting fuel there, still dont have the f/p tester. As for the spark i am gettin power to all 8 it looks kind of weak to me, but i havnt used a tester for that just yet either. All of the parts u mentioned above have been replaced except the crank sensor..if ckp sensor is bad would i still be getting power to the coil tho because i am?
 

east302

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Here is the wiring diagram from a 98 350, I would think that if you had no power to the CKP sensor you'd be getting a code since the VCM wouldn't be receiving an input.

DA4812B1-25A0-4EEB-B06F-6F9E99071D5E_zpsbuwynwss.gif

So you have spark at #1 and some level of fuel pressure from the schrader valve.

Do you have a scanner? Check to see if the ECT sensor is reading some odd ball coolant temperature...something around -20 degrees or so.

Also see if the throttle position sensor is at 0% with your foot off of the gas. See what the voltage is. If it's around 2.5V it is in clear flood mode and won't allow fuel delivery.


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