Oil Pressure Gauge Issue

[ntxshooter]

I have an 04 Tahoe LS 5.3L and the oil pressure gauge either reads 0 or is maxed out. Never in between. Sometimes when it's 0 it'll chime, but most times it doesn't. How do I go about fixing it or even where it's located? 226,500 miles on her. I've searched on here, but have seen oil sender related stuff. Oil is full and looks great.

 

[mals]

I have an 04 Tahoe LS 5.3L and the oil pressure gauge either reads 0 or is maxed out. Never in between. Sometimes when it's 0 it'll chime, but most times it doesn't. How do I go about fixing it or even where it's located? 226,500 miles on her. I've searched on here, but have seen oil sender related stuff. Oil is full and looks great.

I think that you have answered most of your questions with searching. It is likely that the oil pressure sensor has failed. It is located on the rear driver's side of the block down along the firewall.

I replaced mine without too much trouble. Just a tight spot with no visibility, so you have to mostly work by feel.

Some people pull the intake off to make it easier, and take the opportunity to replace the intake manifold gaskets and knock sensors.

 

[ntxshooter]

good deal. wait until weather cools down a bit. I appreciate it.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I have an 04 Tahoe LS 5.3L and the oil pressure gauge either reads 0 or is maxed out. Never in between. Sometimes when it's 0 it'll chime, but most times it doesn't. How do I go about fixing it or even where it's located? 226,500 miles on her. I've searched on here, but have seen oil sender related stuff. Oil is full and looks great.

Change the sending unit. 1 1/16 deep well with a long extension and a u joint. Takes 15 minutes. Just make sure you get a Delco replacement. Lots of trouble with aftermarket ones.

 

[Chubbs]

Mine would read "0" or max out on the other end.

buy the 1-1/16 socket in the specialty tools aisle - they are designed with a thin/low-profile wall as to the space that the sensor is nestled in. A standard socket is massive, won't fit down in there. Just spend the $10 & get the right tools so that it doesn't become a bigger PIA than it should be.

You don't need to remove the manifold. Just get the engine cover out of your way. I second HiHoe info

Replace the PCV valve right there at the same time; its in the same area, requires no tools; those cost about $2. My o/p was right on the money @ 40 lb idle when I started it up with new switch.

 

[MadDogDelpho]

Mine stayed at 40ish, even when I would turn the truck off. I replaced it and it don't fix the problem, so I guess it's something else

 

[watuzi]

I think that you have answered most of your questions with searching. It is likely that the oil pressure sensor has failed. It is located on the rear driver's side of the block down along the firewall.

I replaced mine without too much trouble. Just a tight spot with no visibility, so you have to mostly work by feel.

Some people pull the intake off to make it easier, and take the opportunity to replace the intake manifold gaskets and knock sensors.

Thank you for the useful info, sir. It seems like a hard job to do.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Thank you for the useful info, sir. It seems like a hard job to do.

It's really not hard at all. Also, I've heard the specialty socket thing plenty before. I bought mine straight off the socket rack at auto zone and it worked just fine.

 

[mals]

Thank you for the useful info, sir. It seems like a hard job to do.

It's actually a pretty simple job, just a tough location. I watched a few youtube videos to get an idea how others tackled it. I separated the fuel line using one of these 3/8 fuel line tools to give my hand a little extra room, and then literally laid a drop cloth over the engine and climbed up and in, chest down and arms between the engine and firewall. You are basically working blind, so I used my cellphone to take a few pictures so I could see what orientation the wiring clip was on the sensor which made it easier to feel how to pop it off. I did use one of the thin walled deep 1-1/16 socket with a few universal socket joints and various extension lengths. If I remember correctly, I think I ended up wrapping my universal joints in few wraps of electrical tape, so they were flexible but not floppy.

Other than that, take your time, it will take a few attempts, but it is doable and I think the whole project took about 20 minutes.

 

[watuzi]

Thanks, if I ever have to replace mine I will have an idea on how to do it