I am interested as well. Have 2004 yukon with the same setup. I purchased the front and rear bilstiens a few months back but havent gotten around to ordering the rear springs. And I wasnt sure of which springs, 199020 or 199021. Currently 107k on the original rear nivomats. Not sure how to tell if they are worn or still in good shape
NIVOMAT Shock Replacement Input Needed.....
- Thread starter number9
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Sorry it's been a bit longer on the update, we've had sucky weather hear for a while. Got a break yesterday in the weather and was able to get the shocks and springs installed. I was in a rush to get them on that I forgot to take any ride height measurements.
Just from eyeballing the truck, I do think it lost probably 1-1/2" in rear ride height. It used to sit with a pronounced "stink bug" stance in the rear and it's closer to level now, not dead level just closer. I'll measure the fender heights on it next time I have it in the garage which will hopefully be sooner rather than later. Maybe the 3/4-ton springs would have kept rear ride height closer (?) but they may also have been too stiff spring rate as well (?). I'd like to have a set to try them back to back, but oh well.
The RH front shock (which was a Bilstein 4600 was a major PITA to get off. The threads on the shock stud had rusted up...I am guessing from condensation dripping on it from the AC lines running above it, as the shocks haven't been on the truck *that* long and the LH side was fine. Soaked it in Liquid Wrench, put heat from a propane torch on it - nothing. I ended up cutting the nut off with a dremel and cut-off wheel. When I put the new shocks on, I cut a rubber fuel line (vacuum line would work) the length of the stud and dabbed a little gob of Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease (used on dirtbikes) in the end of the line and slid it down over the stud - they'll come off easy the next time.
One note - the 5100 series shocks have rubber boots covering the shock shaft and since the shock I got was for 0-2.5" lift, I was afraid it was too long when I first put it in place because the rubber boot was VERY bunched up. I pulled the shock off and removed the boot and put the shock back on the truck so I could see the shock shaft and there was 2" of shaft available - this was with the truck sitting on the ground at rest - no jack or anything "lifting" it, and this Yukon sits low IMO. So, satisfied that the 0-2.5" shocks were gonna work just fine, I pulled the shock back off and put the boot back on it - pulling the bottom of the boot down the shock body as far as it would go. Once I got the shocks bolted in place, I went back and slid the boots up about 1/2" where I wanted them and put new zip-ties on them.
Now for the ride report......the truck rides SO MUCH better now. It is best described as "firm, but supple". The 5100 series shocks are valved so much better than the 4600 IMO, I run these on my truck as well (2500HD). I went on a 30min test ride out on a country backroad that we travel a lot, the road has bumps, lots of dips, curves and camber of the road going from side to side and also took a short run down the interstate and back. Body roll is improved and body sway is much improved. Hitting dips at speed, the truck didn't bounce a few times like it used to, it now takes a bounce and settles right back down. Hitting bumps and expantion joints are soaked up nice as well - you know you hit a bump but it's not a hard jar rattle.
I am REALLY REALLY pleased with the ride improvement. Now, maybe the Nivomats were just that far gone, I don't know and anytime you get new tires or shocks it seems like night and day difference, but I don't remember the truck ever riding as good as it does now - and we bought it at 36,000 miles and it now has 133,000 miles. Overall, I am VERY pleased with the results.
I think I have rear height measurements to the trailer hitch from when I was working on another project. I'll try and dig that up and if so, I'll check that height now and post up the difference.
...
Just from eyeballing the truck, I do think it lost probably 1-1/2" in rear ride height. It used to sit with a pronounced "stink bug" stance in the rear and it's closer to level now, not dead level just closer. I'll measure the fender heights on it next time I have it in the garage which will hopefully be sooner rather than later. Maybe the 3/4-ton springs would have kept rear ride height closer (?) but they may also have been too stiff spring rate as well (?). I'd like to have a set to try them back to back, but oh well.
The RH front shock (which was a Bilstein 4600 was a major PITA to get off. The threads on the shock stud had rusted up...I am guessing from condensation dripping on it from the AC lines running above it, as the shocks haven't been on the truck *that* long and the LH side was fine. Soaked it in Liquid Wrench, put heat from a propane torch on it - nothing. I ended up cutting the nut off with a dremel and cut-off wheel. When I put the new shocks on, I cut a rubber fuel line (vacuum line would work) the length of the stud and dabbed a little gob of Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease (used on dirtbikes) in the end of the line and slid it down over the stud - they'll come off easy the next time.
One note - the 5100 series shocks have rubber boots covering the shock shaft and since the shock I got was for 0-2.5" lift, I was afraid it was too long when I first put it in place because the rubber boot was VERY bunched up. I pulled the shock off and removed the boot and put the shock back on the truck so I could see the shock shaft and there was 2" of shaft available - this was with the truck sitting on the ground at rest - no jack or anything "lifting" it, and this Yukon sits low IMO. So, satisfied that the 0-2.5" shocks were gonna work just fine, I pulled the shock back off and put the boot back on it - pulling the bottom of the boot down the shock body as far as it would go. Once I got the shocks bolted in place, I went back and slid the boots up about 1/2" where I wanted them and put new zip-ties on them.
Now for the ride report......the truck rides SO MUCH better now. It is best described as "firm, but supple". The 5100 series shocks are valved so much better than the 4600 IMO, I run these on my truck as well (2500HD). I went on a 30min test ride out on a country backroad that we travel a lot, the road has bumps, lots of dips, curves and camber of the road going from side to side and also took a short run down the interstate and back. Body roll is improved and body sway is much improved. Hitting dips at speed, the truck didn't bounce a few times like it used to, it now takes a bounce and settles right back down. Hitting bumps and expantion joints are soaked up nice as well - you know you hit a bump but it's not a hard jar rattle.
I am REALLY REALLY pleased with the ride improvement. Now, maybe the Nivomats were just that far gone, I don't know and anytime you get new tires or shocks it seems like night and day difference, but I don't remember the truck ever riding as good as it does now - and we bought it at 36,000 miles and it now has 133,000 miles. Overall, I am VERY pleased with the results.
I think I have rear height measurements to the trailer hitch from when I was working on another project. I'll try and dig that up and if so, I'll check that height now and post up the difference.
...
So this did not raise the truck any at all in the front?
No, the front were just replacement shocks - that are spec'd out for applications from stock height to 2.5" of lift, hence the 0-2.5". So, they work fine at stock height, AND allow room for lift if you want to crank your T-bars up later on.
Also, the 2500HD GM trucks are known to have front shocks that are too short - they actually top out and limit the suspension travel - this is documented by Nick at NorCal Truck on a few forums, he has pics from brand new trucks showing this. So they actually NEED a longer shock to ride good, but I don't want to get this thread off on a tangent, so that's another discussion.
I am not sure if this condition exists in the 1/2-ton GM trucks, so I played it safe by opting for the 0-2.5" front shocks - AND I can crank the T-bars later on if I want and not worry about the shocks.
...
Good information.
Post #9 in this thread has pics showing this condition on the 2500HD series trucks. Like I said, I have not researched this on the 1/2-ton models. It would be easy to do for anyone that has stock shocks - jack your front end off the ground and pull the lower shock bolt out of one of your front shocks, see if the A-arms fall farther down like on the 2500HD series....If I had to bet, I'd bet it does.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148074
....
2006Tahoe2WD
Full Access Member
When converting from ZW7 to a "conventional" shock-spring setup I see two springs listed:
Bilstein 199021 (2500 series trucks)
Bilstein 199020 (1500 series trucks)
The Bilstein shock series:
5100 (heavy duty)
4600 ("comfort" or like OEM original)
Sure would like to hear back from people regarding ride height and ride quality.
I'm considering replacing the 10 year/103k miles Nivomats with a Bilstein spring/shock replacement setup. The question is should I go for the 4600 or 5100 series shocks?
I'm looking for a smooth ride, I figure if the 4600 series is supposed to be like OEM, those should provide adequate handling and a smoother ride compared to the 5100 series shocks. My 2006 Tahoe is a 1500 series so I assume the 199020 springs are the correct selection.
---------- Post added at 08:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:28 AM ----------
When converting from ZW7 to a "conventional" shock-spring setup I see two springs listed:
Bilstein 199021 (2500 series trucks)
Bilstein 199020 (1500 series trucks)
The Bilstein shock series:
5100 (heavy duty)
4600 ("comfort" or like OEM original)
Sure would like to hear back from people regarding ride height and ride quality.
I'm considering replacing the 10 year/103k miles Nivomats with a Bilstein spring/shock replacement setup. The question is should I go for the 4600 or 5100 series shocks?
I'm looking for a smooth ride, I figure if the 4600 series is supposed to be like OEM, those should provide adequate handling and a smoother ride compared to the 5100 series shocks. My 2006 Tahoe is a 1500 series so I assume the 199020 springs are the correct selection.
Bilstein 199021 (2500 series trucks)
Bilstein 199020 (1500 series trucks)
The Bilstein shock series:
5100 (heavy duty)
4600 ("comfort" or like OEM original)
Sure would like to hear back from people regarding ride height and ride quality.
I'm considering replacing the 10 year/103k miles Nivomats with a Bilstein spring/shock replacement setup. The question is should I go for the 4600 or 5100 series shocks?
I'm looking for a smooth ride, I figure if the 4600 series is supposed to be like OEM, those should provide adequate handling and a smoother ride compared to the 5100 series shocks. My 2006 Tahoe is a 1500 series so I assume the 199020 springs are the correct selection.
---------- Post added at 08:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:28 AM ----------
When converting from ZW7 to a "conventional" shock-spring setup I see two springs listed:
Bilstein 199021 (2500 series trucks)
Bilstein 199020 (1500 series trucks)
The Bilstein shock series:
5100 (heavy duty)
4600 ("comfort" or like OEM original)
Sure would like to hear back from people regarding ride height and ride quality.
I'm considering replacing the 10 year/103k miles Nivomats with a Bilstein spring/shock replacement setup. The question is should I go for the 4600 or 5100 series shocks?
I'm looking for a smooth ride, I figure if the 4600 series is supposed to be like OEM, those should provide adequate handling and a smoother ride compared to the 5100 series shocks. My 2006 Tahoe is a 1500 series so I assume the 199020 springs are the correct selection.
2006Tahoe2WD
Full Access Member
Assuming you want stock ride height why not get OEM springs for vehicle with standard suspension and then purchase OEM shocks or aftermarket shocks? I looked at the price on the OEM parts website and they are similar in cost to the Bilstein 199021.
2006Tahoe2WD
Full Access Member
I have ZW7/G65 RPO. I've been looking at replacing my rear shocks. After reading seems like 100s of posts and contacting Bilstein and Strutmasters I'm now leaning toward replacing the rears with the stock RPO ACDelco self-leveling shocks - they are now only $218 on Amazon - that's not too bad considering you get to keep the auto-leveling feature and ZW7 RPO code in tact. If people here say it will still ride like crap then I'll reconsider. The vehicle has 103k miles and they look original. The car is recently new to me and doesn't feel good at all going down the road. I'll put the Bilstein 4600s on the front. That's the plan at this point. Thanks for any comments.
2006Tahoe2WD
Full Access Member
This weekend I replaced all my shocks including Nivomats. Softer Bilsteins on the front.
The Nivomats were ~$218/ea. on Amazon.
The ride is now much less choppy/jerky. The feeling was that something was hitting bump stops. Vehicle has 104k miles.
I figured there was some value in the self leveling and keeping with the original RPO code.
I'm happy I replaced with OEM compared to changing springs/etc.
The Nivomats were ~$218/ea. on Amazon.
The ride is now much less choppy/jerky. The feeling was that something was hitting bump stops. Vehicle has 104k miles.
I figured there was some value in the self leveling and keeping with the original RPO code.
I'm happy I replaced with OEM compared to changing springs/etc.
Similar threads
