New to LS motors. Cam replacement while doing AFM Delete Questions

[jw50001]

Hey all, I'm new to the forums and to internal work on LS-type motors in general. I have an 07 Yukon LTZ 5.3, all stock. I'm familiar with Nissan VQ V6's, the LS seems much simpler to work on, but the aftermarket scene for these is insane with just too many options to know if what I'm choosing is right. I'm sure this is beat to death but it's tough to narrow down what's needed and what isn't.

My goal is an AFM delete with a little more performance since I tow roughly 30% of the time. My question:
Should I replace ALL the lifters, pushrods, valve springs, camshaft, etc? I read somewhere that if I install a DOD delete kit, that the camshaft has to be replaced as well. I assume that's the best thing to do with 200k on this motor anyways.

Was looking at the COMP Cams 5552-8KIT, it looks incomplete and basic. Went to the Texas speed site and they'll narrow a kit down you, but good grief there are so many variables. Didn't know VVT was a thing on pushrod motors, and I have no idea if I have it or not, I assume I don't.

Texas Speed & Performance DOD / AFM Delete Kit for 5.3/6.0/6.2 Engines

DODdeleteKit DOD / AFM Delete Kit for 5.3/6.0/6.2 Engines

www.texas-speed.com

After putting in my year and make/model, this is what I've I've selected based on the available options:

COMP Cams OE Lifters
GM MLS 5.3/5.7L Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs
GM LS3/LS7 Valley Cover with PCV Provision and LS7 PCV Tube
ARP Crank Bolt
GM 3-Bolt 4x Gam Gear and ARP Cam Bolts
GM LS9 6.2L 3-Bolt Cam and GM Performance Valve Springs
GM Oil Pan Gasket
GM Exhaust Gaskets
ARP LS Header Studs
Summit Racing Camshaft Retainer Plate and Bolts Kit

Any suggestions on if this will work would be appreciated. Was trying to keep it under $1500 for the parts, this comes to $1733. Thank you!

 

[swathdiver]

VVT was used on the 5.3s from 2010, yours doesn't have it. Yours also has flat top pistons and a single pattern camshaft. Most camshafts move the powerband north so be wary of choosing something with more than 210 degrees duration for towing.

When you pull the driver's rocker cover, see if you have the updated one or the original. Replace with updated if needed to lessen oil consumption. I'd replace the pressure relief valve in the oil pan and the o-ring on the oil pump pickup tube as well.

After seeing so many guys have issues with oil pressure after doing what you're about to do with those miles, I'd be inclined to pull the motor and replace the camshaft bearings.

 

[Geotrash]

Welcome to the forum. I chose a Cam Motion stage 2 truck cam for my 6.2L but they also make a grind for the same cam for the 5.3L. I'm really happy with it and I also tow a 7500 lb camper about 10K miles/year. Here are my notes from the job:

2012 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L Cam Swap Thread

I love that Cam Motion measures each cam after grinding and finishing. Here's the cam card. Blub blub blub...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

 

[BlackBearPerf]

Welcome to the forum from Northern Idaho! You came to the right place for good advice.

 

[jw50001]

Thank you all! Always nice to see good friendly people in forums. I live in Washington, moved here recently from Idaho for mine and my wife's jobs.

I replaced the pickup tube O-ring last year when I noticed lower oil pressure when cold but increase after warmup, rebuilt the t-case since I pulled it to get the pan out. Did tie rods, control arms, boots, front wheel bearings etc. all at the same time with OE parts. Did the oil pressure sensor, pulled intake manifold and replaced gaskets on that and the valve covers while I was in there, should have taken pictures under the covers but didn't think I'd need them for anything. Water pump was making some bearing noise so I replaced that, took me an hour. It's an easy motor to work on compared to the Japanese stuff I'm used to, and parts seem to "just work" after they're installed, doesn't complain with check engine lights for a while after... Kinda nice!

I'll start taking a look at other websites that offer cams. Any and all suggestions on that I'll gladly take. I only want to do it once.

I plan on pulling the motor, doing main/crank bearings and piston rings, I'll do the cam bearings and piston rings too. I have garage space to pull and lots of tools to hone and clean. Hope my picker is tall enough to get it out from the top. Plan on cleaning the valve body on the transmission as well.

Ill take an post some pics, its basically stock.

Thanks again!

 

[tooleyondeck]

Welcome from FL!

Based on your list, these would be my recommendations, for what they're worth:

Consider GM LS2/7 lifters if you're not going with an aggressive lobe.

If you're upgrading your valve springs, consider pushrods and rocker trunnions as well.

Studs aren't really necessary unless you're going full race car and will be removing them frequently.

Consider changing out your oil pump while you have the timing cover off, Melling is pretty much the most popular choice. They're around $150.

There are a TON of experienced members here who have done these swaps. In addition to that, most of the online shops will gladly advise you on what would work best to reach your goals, Texas Speed being one of them.

PS: I dabbled in the VQ world as well, '03 350Z & '09 G37

 

[jw50001]

Welcome from FL!

Based on your list, these would be my recommendations, for what they're worth:

Consider GM LS2/7 lifters if you're not going with an aggressive lobe.

If you're upgrading your valve springs, consider pushrods and rocker trunnions as well.

Studs aren't really necessary unless you're going full race car and will be removing them frequently.

Consider changing out your oil pump while you have the timing cover off, Melling is pretty much the most popular choice. They're around $150.

There are a TON of experienced members here who have done these swaps. In addition to that, most of the online shops will gladly advise you on what would work best to reach your goals, Texas Speed being one of them.

PS: I dabbled in the VQ world as well, '03 350Z & '09 G37

Thanks for the recommendations. I plan on changing the oil pump out as well, I had read something a while back that said the one in it now is a higher pressure pump to support the AFM. I've had an OBD2 AFM disable dongle in it for the last couple of years and I do notice some oil consumption.

 

[Geotrash]

Thanks for the recommendations. I plan on changing the oil pump out as well, I had read something a while back that said the one in it now is a higher pressure pump to support the AFM. I've had an OBD2 AFM disable dongle in it for the last couple of years and I do notice some oil consumption.

I can't remember - is the 5.3 in that model/year an iron or aluminum block? If it's aluminum, you'll want a high volume pump because aluminum expands more with heat, opening up your cam bearing and other clearances slightly. That's why I went with the Melling high volume pump when I did my cam swap and I'm glad I did. If you have an iron block, a standard volume pump should be fine.

 

[Charlie207]

Hey all, I'm new to the forums and to internal work on LS-type motors in general. I have an 07 Yukon LTZ 5.3, all stock. I'm familiar with Nissan VQ V6's, the LS seems much simpler to work on, but the aftermarket scene for these is insane with just too many options to know if what I'm choosing is right. I'm sure this is beat to death but it's tough to narrow down what's needed and what isn't.

My goal is an AFM delete with a little more performance since I tow roughly 30% of the time. My question:
Should I replace ALL the lifters, pushrods, valve springs, camshaft, etc? I read somewhere that if I install a DOD delete kit, that the camshaft has to be replaced as well. I assume that's the best thing to do with 200k on this motor anyways.

Was looking at the COMP Cams 5552-8KIT, it looks incomplete and basic. Went to the Texas speed site and they'll narrow a kit down you, but good grief there are so many variables. Didn't know VVT was a thing on pushrod motors, and I have no idea if I have it or not, I assume I don't.

Texas Speed & Performance DOD / AFM Delete Kit for 5.3/6.0/6.2 Engines

DODdeleteKit DOD / AFM Delete Kit for 5.3/6.0/6.2 Engines

www.texas-speed.com

After putting in my year and make/model, this is what I've I've selected based on the available options:

COMP Cams OE Lifters
GM MLS 5.3/5.7L Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs
GM LS3/LS7 Valley Cover with PCV Provision and LS7 PCV Tube
ARP Crank Bolt
GM 3-Bolt 4x Gam Gear and ARP Cam Bolts
GM LS9 6.2L 3-Bolt Cam and GM Performance Valve Springs
GM Oil Pan Gasket
GM Exhaust Gaskets
ARP LS Header Studs
Summit Racing Camshaft Retainer Plate and Bolts Kit

Any suggestions on if this will work would be appreciated. Was trying to keep it under $1500 for the parts, this comes to $1733. Thank you!

What cam did you go with?

I'm inching closer to pulling the trigger on an AFM-delete project, and am curious what you went with.