My Boom Box

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BigDaddy13440

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What size alternator do you have, I want to upgrade subs but don't know how powerful i can go

Your Planet Audio amp and his HiFonics amp are pretty much the same power, and probably draw about the same amperage from the alternator. FWIW, I have a stock alternator, and the "1000w rms" Lightning Audio amp I have draws enough power to make my lights dim just a little bit, but only on the very heaviest of bass (Techmaster PEB, Bass 305 and the like). I only have one battery, and it's just fine. Once you start getting up over 2000 watts rms, then you need to go to very-high output alternators, and multiple/dedicated batteries. If you're under 2000, then a higher-output stock-case alternator with a single battery should suffice - check and see if the PPV Tahoes had a 145 or 160 amp version.

Just re-read your post..... no need to change alternators or amps if you are just looking to upgrade your subs. They don't draw any power, it's the amp that does. You could get some 24" Sundown Audio subs, or a 32" Deaf Bonce sub (http://alphard.audio/us/subwoofers/deafbonce-db-832neo) from Russia, and run your same PA amp to them - your power consumption will be the same.
 
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02_Tahoe

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Your Planet Audio amp and his HiFonics amp are pretty much the same power, and probably draw about the same amperage from the alternator. FWIW, I have a stock alternator, and the "1000w rms" Lightning Audio amp I have draws enough power to make my lights dim just a little bit, but only on the very heaviest of bass (Techmaster PEB, Bass 305 and the like). I only have one battery, and it's just fine. Once you start getting up over 2000 watts rms, then you need to go to very-high output alternators, and multiple/dedicated batteries. If you're under 2000, then a higher-output stock-case alternator with a single battery should suffice - check and see if the PPV Tahoes had a 145 or 160 amp version.

Just re-read your post..... no need to change alternators or amps if you are just looking to upgrade your subs. They don't draw any power, it's the amp that does. You could get some 24" Sundown Audio subs, or a 32" Deaf Bonce sub (http://alphard.audio/us/subwoofers/deafbonce-db-832neo) from Russia, and run your same PA amp to them - your power consumption will be the same.
I mean upgrade the amp too, and my amp is an anarchy 1500 but it's 1500 max rms, it's only 600rms for subs that are 500rms
 

inmypassatlife

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hell, i had 3-8" Soundsplinter RL-i's in my HHR that hit 154Db, I am sure a trio of 12's or 4-10's downfire would be great behind the third row.
 

BigDaddy13440

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I mean upgrade the amp too, and my amp is an anarchy 1500 but it's 1500 max rms, it's only 600rms for subs that are 500rms

1500 max is a far cry from 1500 rms, as you know. If it's rated at 600rms, is that clean, certified power, uncertified power, or dynamic power? If you're unsure, check out Steve Meade's YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAn7KfxuoxUur8dP-lFCjdA, he's pretty much "the guru" of car audio installs nowadays.

As far as 600 watts for subs rated at 500 watts, is that 600 rms @ 4 ohms? At 2 ohms? Do you have single or dual voice coil subs, and how are they wired? What ohm load are you showing to your amp? Is your amp stable to 2 ohms, or 1 ohm? The reason I'm asking is that, theoretically, I doubled the power to my subs by changing my single voice coil subs (wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load) over to dual coil subs (all coils in parallel for a 1 ohm load). My LA amp is rated at 500 watts at 2 ohms, and 1000 at 1 ohm - most "better" amps come close to doubling the power as the load is cut in half (cut in half is actually increasing the load).

And for your 500rms rated subs, I suppose that's 500rms each? So you can have an amp that puts out 1000 watts at the ohm load your subs are presenting to your amp, and you're fine. If your amp puts out more than the rated RMS for your subs, that's actually EVEN BETTER! That means the amp doesn't have to work as hard to push your subs, and it'll put out clean, UNDISTORTED power, just turn the gains down on the amp. Distortion is what kills speakers, not an over-abundance of power! Granted, I wouldn't run a 3000 watt rms amplifier into subs that are only rated for 500 watts, UNLESS the gains on the amp were turned waaaay down, and I was careful with the volume knob. It's called Headroom, when you have more available power than what the speakers can handle - the RMS rating on speakers is typically at 1% THD (total harmonic distortion). If you have more clean power (lower distortion!), you can safely run it all day long.

Now that I'm out of breath.....whew!
 

Gossamer

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My ported 8" sub tube. Got the tube as a $25 experiment instead of making a sonotube and it works surprisingly well. It fits behind the 3rd row pretty easily and leaves me quite a lot of room.

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Just wondering how you placed it?
I have a 10" bazooka tube.
Which direction do you have it facing?
 
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OB 04Denali

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2 10" Powerbass M-1004D's in the rear quarter panel, powered by a Lightning Audio 1001.d 1000 watt monoblack @ 1 ohm.... Have (almost) matching grey carpet, just have to find time to wrap it and put the grill back on....

View attachment 80250


Wo wo woooooo Look at this. Now this gives me more ides on what can fit back there bit smaller though. sweet
 
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