Moisture=Money 5.7 no start

[pistnbroke88]

Whats up guys, Not only new to the forum but new chev owner. After hrs of browsing on al gores superhighway and getting mixed results, I decided to go straight to the source.

So here's the deal. I bought a 97 Tahoe w/Vortec off an older vet it had been sitting for 3 yrs Brake lines and fuel lines rotted through. Got all of that sorted out she started and ran GREAT! I was impressed at 207k on it. Anyway, its been raining for like 4 days here I've been cooped up so I decided to do a spark plug change (didn't start it prior) and now its a no start?
>Heres what I've got. It has solid spark all the way to the plugs Coil and Ignition module tested _within spec_ grounds tested and cleaned, cap and rotor -ok. Fuel is within psi range and leak down test meets tolerances. so fuel and spark but no bang hu, All I can think of (or read on the matter) is that the injectors are pulsing at the wrong time and or the cap has built up moisture energizing the air and creating a misfire. so all I have left is the Hall effects sensor or whatever GM calls it (CPM) in the dist. or the Crank sensor I can't think of anything else guys.
------And noooo codes

 

[bigfootchiro]

First off, welcome to the forum!

Secondly, describe the no start condition. Does it crank but not fire? Does it start then die a couple seconds later? Does it crank, you can hear detonation in the cylinders, and it doesn’t start? Does it do nothing at all?

 

[pistnbroke88]

Thanks,
The startup feels like no fuel or spark scenario, It just cranks but does not hit, no backfire nada out of 5 or 6 attempts spaced out with ample fiddling It felt like it hit on a cyl or two (barely a spudder) but nothing after and to date.

 

[bigfootchiro]

Do you know of any maintenance/repair history?

 

[bigfootchiro]

Do you have a code reader? It may have thrown a pending code which would not throw a CEL.

 

[pistnbroke88]

The maint/repair history is good religious maint actually but nothing was done that stood out. The guy stopped driving because his eyesight was failing he is 70 but original owner. You can tell nothing was fiddled with. I did a comp check and oil press check when i got it home and for 207k its Very healthy. But no codes whatsoever which are a P.I.T.A. my scanner is connecting to the vehicle but -0- codes HOWEVER the "service engine soon" light is on and id assume that's chev's CEL? but I'm getting nothing which is driving me crazy!

 

[bigfootchiro]

The maint/repair history is good religious maint actually but nothing was done that stood out. The guy stopped driving because his eyesight was failing he is 70 but original owner. You can tell nothing was fiddled with. I did a comp check and oil press check when i got it home and for 207k its Very healthy. But no codes whatsoever which are a P.I.T.A. my scanner is connecting to the vehicle but -0- codes HOWEVER the "service engine soon" light is on and id assume that's chev's CEL? but I'm getting nothing which is driving me crazy!

CEL is on but you’re pulling 0 codes? Doesn’t sound right. Do you have access to a different scanner?

 

[bigfootchiro]

What’s your fuel pressure reading with key on?

 

[pistnbroke88]

With the engine off key on its 60psi. No, I've only got the 1 scanner its one from work and is pretty darn good not an el cheapo alas nothing . I'm going to do some prodding around I'm not scared of using the old multimeter to find a bad sensor I just hope it's not anything to do with the spider inj.assemblyy seeing as there $$.

 

[bigfootchiro]

With the engine off key on its 60psi. No, I've only got the 1 scanner its one from work and is pretty darn good not an el cheapo alas nothing . I'm going to do some prodding around I'm not scared of using the old multimeter to find a bad sensor I just hope it's not anything to do with the spider inj.assemblyy seeing as there $$.

A little over $200 on Amazon. eBay has them cheaper sometimes. You wouldn’t need the combo with the mounting bracket, seeing as they are more expensive and you don’t need the bracket. It may be a crank sensor or camshaft sensor. I would think crank over cam as it should still start when the cam sensor is going out. Camshaft sensor is in the distributor, and crank sensor is on the bottom back side of crank angled to passenger side. Idk the specific testing procedures for those though, or what their volt/ohm values should be.