Just about done with this f**king truck...

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mrkrsll

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What a nightmare buying this Tahoe has been. When I bought it, was in really good shape. Suspension was tight and quite, engine fairly quite and just an all around good truck.

I drove for two years with no issues. Kept a regular maintenance schedule and out of no where, problem after problem.

Started with a bunch of Evap codes and chasing them down. Replaced just about every Evap component including a rusted fuel sending unit. Everything there is somewhat fixed besides some fuel engine codes that no one can seem to find where the issues lies including a fuel rail pressure sensor that was changed, but didn't fix anything.

Then then the rear air ride struts failed, which in turn had the compressor running all the time and then that failed. Along with that came all the ABS/Traction lights.

Then the rear diff took a sh*t in the bed and had to get that rebuilt.

Just recently, the engine just all of a sudden started mis-firing. Gave me a very general code P0300, but no specific cylinder. Checked all the coil packs, wires and plugs. Fuel pressure is good, but a vacuum leak test pointed to a timing issue. Drove the truck up the street to get it scanned and look at a bit more in depth and bam, a very loud clicking/ticking from under the hood. Sure enough, it was under the valve cover. Don't know if a spring or something broke in there or maybe the timing chain skipped a few teeth and the pistons slapped against the valves.

I had the truck towed home.

Tomorrow I am going to pull the valve cover off and see if something is broken in there and if not, pull the water pump and timing cover off and check to see if the timing is off.

Any advice about the last issue?

Thanks.
 

YukonandtheHOE

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Ouch on all the repairs, sounds like your doing all the work, and thats a bundle of savings.. Do a compression test on afm cylinders, if you have a dead hole, your lifters collapsed. #'s 1,4,6,7. Are AFM, a good time to whip the heads off and stuff a nice cam and a set if lifters in!
 
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mrkrsll

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Thanks for the replies! Turns out the intake valve spring on the #3 broke into three pieces and was banging around in there.
I rotated the crank shaft until the #3 was at TDC and the valve was all the way up. It doesn't look bent. The push rod seems fine as well. I rolled it on a piece of glass and it seems straight.
Im hoping this is why the misfire was happening.
Just gotta wait for parts to come in.
 

YukonandtheHOE

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Thanks for the replies! Turns out the intake valve spring on the #3 broke into three pieces and was banging around in there.
I rotated the crank shaft until the #3 was at TDC and the valve was all the way up. It doesn't look bent. The push rod seems fine as well. I rolled it on a piece of glass and it seems straight.
Im hoping this is why the misfire was happening.
Just gotta wait for parts to come in.
Damn thats lucky! The keeper's and sping hat kept it from droping I assume? IMG_1668.PNG
 

07Burb

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Did you replace with stock stuff?
Yes and removed the AFM via a tune later on so mine no longer goes into that useless 4 cyl mode. At almost 185k now with no issues
 
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mrkrsll

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Im wondering if I should pull the head just to make sure. I dont have any air so I wont really be able to do a leak down test...
 

YukonandtheHOE

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How do you intend on putting the new spring on? Old rope in the hole trick? If it really droped the stem would be bent,When you pull up on the valve stem does the valve make a nice Plunk sound when it seats? If so You should be good to go with a new seal,spring and retaining hardware.
 
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