I need ideas

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05Single

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Sorry im late
Not recommended for use of drl. Get the 4114L bulb, it's drl specific.
3157 and 3156 will both burn out. I know cause I went through 2 sets before I did some research and found the correct bulb.
Those lights w8tvi posted are fine and might last 6 months but I'm 99% sure those will eventually burn out as well.
Sellers will advertise that it's drl compatible but it's not.
 

W8TVI

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Sorry im late
Not recommended for use of drl. Get the 4114L bulb, it's drl specific.
3157 and 3156 will both burn out. I know cause I went through 2 sets before I did some research and found the correct bulb.
Those lights w8tvi posted are fine and might last 6 months but I'm 99% sure those will eventually burn out as well.
Sellers will advertise that it's drl compatible but it's not.

If they really do operate at 10w like the listing says, then they should last longer than the 30w stock bulbs.
 

Fleetgeo

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Yes I just would like some nice led turn signal and drl for the front being though I have hid headlights and halos also which would you guys recommend for the bottom fog lights I want something bright led or hid and would it be a simple plug and play ? Or I would have to do some modification
 

Big Mama

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Great find and great looking rig. It seems like lights are important mods. A nice and inexpensive upgrade is drilled and slotted rotors with painted calipers. Yours might need replacing if original. Any thoughts about the stance? I'm a go low guy but that's not for everyone. A 2/3 drop is cheap and easy on your model but so is a short lift. Keep us posted with pics. If you didn't join after 4 years you might inspire others to join too. Good luck
 
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05Zsvntyfun

05Zsvntyfun

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Great find and great looking rig. It seems like lights are important mods. A nice and inexpensive upgrade is drilled and slotted rotors with painted calipers. Yours might need replacing if original. Any thoughts about the stance? I'm a go low guy but that's not for everyone. A 2/3 drop is cheap and easy on your model but so is a short lift. Keep us posted with pics. If you didn't join after 4 years you might inspire others to join too. Good luck
Thank you very much! And my plan in the end is a lot of changes but I'm a college kid so I can only go so far with my budget. But eventually I want 22x10 rims with 35x14 tires. And probably about a 3 inch lift. Right now I'm just finding little knick knacks to throw on here and there


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W8TVI

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Yes I just would like some nice led turn signal and drl for the front being though I have hid headlights and halos also which would you guys recommend for the bottom fog lights I want something bright led or hid and would it be a simple plug and play ? Or I would have to do some modification
You should be able to get stuff that is just plug and play.
If they have ballasts you will have to something with those (like you did with your HIDs), but they should all be plug in.

I used these switchbacks with my HIDs and they looked ok, but I changed them out for these just plain amber LEDs when I switched to 9011 HIR1 bulbs in my projectors.

Here is a video of what they (the swtichbacks) look like on my Yukon XL:


Just make sure if you go with all LEDs up front, that you get non-polarity sensitive LEDs for ether the side markers or the turn signals, or they won't work correctly.
I chose the side markers for the non-polarity sensitive bulbs because they were cheaper when I looked ($5 a piece).
 

Maximus1

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Yeah I haven't really hurt any good things about it, just trying to get some more power without pulling a ton of things apart. I guess I'll cross that off the list haha

On these engines the best thing you can do to get more horsepower for the money is to swap out your camshaft. Now that sounds like it means tearing the engine apart and a lot of work. This was the reason why I hesitated to swap my cam out. But knowing what I know now I wish it would have been the first thing that I changed. Any average mechanic can easily do this swap and people have seen gains in excess of 85 horsepower with just a cam swap. I was able to do mine in my garage and had the new cam in and engine running in under three hours. I did it without removing the lifters or heads. Here's how:
1st drain the coolant, then remove the air intake, fan and radiator. Then remove the water pump and balancer and timing chain cover. Next turn the engine over by hand to line up the timing marks. Then remove valve covers, rocker arms and pushrods keeping them in order. Then go to your local hardware store and purchase two 5/16 wooden dowel rods at least 20". Then spin your cam by hand as fast as you can to push the lifters up and then install the wooden rods in the holes next to the cam. Make sure you install the rods all the way to the rear. These rods will hold the lifters while you remove the cam. Then lube up your new cam and install it the same way as you removed the old one. Then put everything back in reverse order. The hardest part and what took the most time for me was removing the balancer. Once everything was done I was extremely pleased with the power. The cam I installed required a custom tune but I made arrangements for this and had it done the very next day. Again my only regret was that I wish I had done this first. The guy that tuned my truck said that it was definitely pushing in excess of 400 HP
 
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05Zsvntyfun

05Zsvntyfun

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On these engines the best thing you can do to get more horsepower for the money is to swap out your camshaft. Now that sounds like it means tearing the engine apart and a lot of work. This was the reason why I hesitated to swap my cam out. But knowing what I know now I wish it would have been the first thing that I changed. Any average mechanic can easily do this swap and people have seen gains in excess of 85 horsepower with just a cam swap. I was able to do mine in my garage and had the new cam in and engine running in under three hours. I did it without removing the lifters or heads. Here's how:
1st drain the coolant, then remove the air intake, fan and radiator. Then remove the water pump and balancer and timing chain cover. Next turn the engine over by hand to line up the timing marks. Then remove valve covers, rocker arms and pushrods keeping them in order. Then go to your local hardware store and purchase two 5/16 wooden dowel rods at least 20". Then spin your cam by hand as fast as you can to push the lifters up and then install the wooden rods in the holes next to the cam. Make sure you install the rods all the way to the rear. These rods will hold the lifters while you remove the cam. Then lube up your new cam and install it the same way as you removed the old one. Then put everything back in reverse order. The hardest part and what took the most time for me was removing the balancer. Once everything was done I was extremely pleased with the power. The cam I installed required a custom tune but I made arrangements for this and had it done the very next day. Again my only regret was that I wish I had done this first. The guy that tuned my truck said that it was definitely pushing in excess of 400 HP
What kind of cam did you go for that you went from 295 to 490+?


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05Zsvntyfun

05Zsvntyfun

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This weekend was pretty uneventful. All I did was start to test my eagle eyes. I'm not really happy with them. They don't seem that bright. But, I did install my switch panel. Painted matte black to match the console. I'm waiting on my new switches in the mail and then to wire them to shit.
424a158c869cd422f6508f7d1db1b1e2.jpg



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