GM Repurchased 2nd 2015 Denali--Be Cautious of 2015s

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Prormk

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I'm agreeing with tylus. I put my Yukon XL slt in manual shift / V8 mode and drove consistent speeds between 30 and 50. The droning was totally gone. When it is in V4 mode and driving a constant speed between 30 and 50 mph, it feels like the trans is in WAY too high of a gear, causing the engine to bog and struggle, thus dispersing a pulsing shudder throughout. I'm not at all saying that's what's going on, but that's what it FEELS like. Can even feel it in the steering wheel. Put it in manual shift mode, not even a hint of vibes or shudder buffeting. In my mechanical opinion, it's an exhaust gas path design issue somewhere in the system.

Anyone else relate?
 

romeo serban

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There is a fix for this now.

What the **** are we talking about here. I drove vehicles that were build 25 years ago and didn't have this problem. I bought a 2015 Chevy Tahoe, brand new and there is NO SUN ROOF or whatever is called . It's raining in not even when I am driving. First I noticed a hissing , like a window is not fully closed and then it started. POOR QUALITY. And that is not the only issue. Do they have anybody checking this vehicles out when they leave the plant? Remember the "PAINT JOB" in the early 90 GM vehicles ? They were peeling of like a snake in the sun. Worst cars in the world don't do that. Hyunday Pony had a better paint.
GM should take them all back and replace them . I don't think there is anything else to do

#PIT5318B: Wind Buffeting Drone Type Noise And/Or Body Pressure Booming And/Or Water Leak - (Jul 30, 2015)
Subject: Wind Buffeting Drone Type Noise And/Or Body Pressure Booming And/Or Water Leak


Models: 2015 Cadillac Escalade Models
2015 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2015 GMC Yukon Models

This PI was superseded to update Recommendation/Instructions. Please discard PIT5318A.

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern

Note: In some cases, correcting the roof bows may not eliminate the body pressure booming issue due to the fact that the roof is being excited by some other input(s). These other areas will need to be addressed if the body pressure booming is still present at the completion of this PI. Examples of inputs that can excite the roof may be:

Tires with excessive road force (Reference "condition 1" in the latest version of PI1354)
Exhaust back pressure valve issues (Reference the latest version of PIT5404)
Rear axle related issues such as pitchline runout (Reference "Other Sources of Vibrations" Step 3 in the latest version of PI1354)

Some owners may comment of a wind buffeting/droan noise or body/pressure booming (the feeling of pressure in the ears) while driving. The body booming issue may be more noticeable when the engine is in V4 mode for active fuel management (AFM). In some cases, they may also notice a water leak from the headliner area, if equipped with a sunroof.

These concerns could be caused by the roof sheet metal no longer being attached fully to the roof bows (1). On trucks with a sunroof, it may be noticed that the rear edge of the sunroof glass is considerably lower than the roof (2). This is due to the roof sheet metal being detached from the roof bow directly behind the sunroof opening (3).
Object ID: 3973291Click here for detailed picture of the image.

Object ID: 3973293Click here for detailed picture of the image.

Object ID: 3973294Click here for detailed picture of the image.

Recommendation/Instructions

To correct this concern, apply panel vibration control material between the roof bow and roof sheet metal, along with foam shim material when necessary.

Remove the headliner to access the underside of the roof. Inspect all 4 roof bows for insufficient bonding to the roof sheet metal (4). Any roof bow that is not bonded to the sheet metal will need to be repaired.
Object ID: 3973295Click here for detailed picture of the image.

Use the following repair for all 4 bows on trucks without a sunroof, and for the 3 rear bows on trucks with a sunroof:

Use a plastic scraper or similar tool to remove the old foam. Measure the gap between the top of the roof bow and bottom of the roof sheet metal. If the gap is 1/4" (6mm) or greater, use a combination of 3/4" wide by 5/16" or 7/16" thick foam shim material (as listed below) to fill the gap between the roof bow and the sheet metal. Care should be taken to add only the correct thickness of foam to fill the gap so it does not push up on the roof. Cut the foam into 5 inch lengths and evenly place in five spots along the roof bow. With the foam shim material in place, or if the gap is less than 1/4" (6mm), use the panel control vibration material (as listed below) to fill the voids between the roof bow and sheet metal. In some cases, it may take a couple layers of material to fill the void.

Repair for 1st bow on trucks with a sunroof:

Using a plastic scraper or similar tool, remove the old foam. Use the panel control vibration material (listed below) and apply along the top of the 1st roof bow. Obtain two 2x4 pieces of wood long enough to span the opening of the sunroof. Wrap one of the 2x4's with a cloth to protect the roof paint and place it on top of the roof, see NOTE below. Place the second 2x4 underneath the roof bow, sandwiching the roof sheet metal and roof bow between the two pieces of wood. Clamp everything together using three C-clamps as shown in the photo below (5 & 6). The clamps will need to stay in place until the panel control vibration material is dry.

Note: When placing the cloth wrapped 2x4 on the top/roof, pay close attention that it is far enough forward so that the 2x4's rear edge does not contact the roof's raised ribs. The roof ribs may be damaged/dented if the 2x4 is placed on them when clamped down
Object ID: 3973296Click here for detailed picture of the image.
 

romeo serban

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I'm not particularly brand loyal. I have a Silverado and a Super Duty sitting side by side as my daily drivers. I just like the change up. I prefer the Ford, but have no complaints at all with the Chevy.

If you are hooked on GM, I would definitely take a Denali 2500 HD DuraMax for a test ride. You may fall in love with it. I would also highly recommend test driving a new Ford also.
I would try a Tundra
 

racefreak24

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I have 2015i with the 8 speed transmission. had issues since new not going into reverse. has been in dealer shop 3 times, still slipping. GMC is talking buy out, my Denali has 20,000. what should i hold out for on a buy out?
 

Parthery

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I think the buyout is what you paid less a deduction for the mileage. And you may need to negotiate to see if you can recover sales taxes and registration and title fees.
 

Lee Smith

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just got a 2016 Yukon xl denali 1/31. Only have about 60 miles on it, but I am not sure I notice the buffeting. I do notice that the road bumps seem to be more pronounced than they were on my old Yukon. Old yukon had 16" wheels and mud terrain tires. Maybe the larger sidewalls on the old yukon helped soak up the small road bumps? The denali has 20" wheels with the factory E rated tires.

Going to put a leveling kit on next couple of weeks and move up to a 295 55/20 tire to get more sidewall.

For those that have experienced the buffetting issue. Is it extremely obvious? Scale of 1 to 10 on the droning how loud would you say? I ask because I notice a little extra noise when I am only on the phone (bluetooth) or when the radio is turned all the way down. When the radio is at normal listening levels, it seems just fine.

Maybe they fixed the problem on the 2016s?
 

cardude2000

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When do they 'apply fixes or changes' etc to models mid year? Meaning, when did an 'S' become an 'I'...when will the next '2016x' happen?


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